Not as bad as i thought it would be. Left the kickstart and gear selecter in-situ which may have held the gearbox internals in place. glad i bought dead blow mallets. inside of the stator flywheel was very rusty though, i believe that it is condensation. Whats best, seal it, or open it after every outing and let it dry out. Seems to have an extra wieght on the flywheel as well, what does this do?
The mains are really rumbling, so they are going to be changed. not sure about the big end. no real up and down play, top of the rod does have play side to side, i am thinking its gone, but not sure. anyone got an idea.
Cheers,
Tom,
Rods always have a bit of rocking and side to side play, should have no up-down and rotate smoothly.
Venting the cover by removal or a 3mm drain hole is your option. Weight is optional and slows the revs.
Sounds as though you need to get the rumbling loose mains an seals out and you will be OK, Very typical unless you find worse!
I suspect ATF comes in closer to 10W in viscosity. Might make things a bit harsh in the newer forks, although some the old stuff seemed a bit more tuned for it!
Primary reason it works in forks its the "anti foaming" agents in the mix.
Well, it seems Nif and Livio are in harmony now at least. Seems to me that in accordance with Livio's post that you have discovered the limitations of the forks!(which I believe are the same as the Sherco later style Paioli)
I have heard in the past that the Showa uses a superior valve system, yet unsure. The Zokes may be better as well, but to be honest, I am nott good enough nor wealthy enough for any of this to make a huge difference at the end of day. I set them and forget them , as I gotta ride what I brung, and in my testing of friends bikes, I found little difference launching a Mont off a 4ft rock at the end of a hard day, cannot comment on the Zokes, sure they are ok, which why I do not discount the Scorpa, which may have the best out there at this time. Feedback on the Rieger rear on the new gassres seems nill thusfar, but should be ok.
I have to remove the barel and the barel head as a silly bolt on my rev3 has decided to leave the tread in the barell bit , so has anyone got any tips for when removing this?, im planning on removing it from where the radihator is i believe it will fit through there with the sides off of the frame (heard this on another thread).
Also im planning on renewing the gaskits as im meant too whilst im there so how much gasket sealent should i use on the gaskets and what type will i need to use on these gaskets?
Thanks Ben
You are about 16 years of age, right? (Houmour me here)
Gasket cleaning normally requiere a razor blade(which you may not be familiar with) Single edge is preferred! Surfaces must be perfect, with no nicks or gouges! Repeat, do not nick the alli! Scrape backwards with the blade once the majority is off, to remove the rest. Surface perfectly smooth to toutch, no sealer required as the gasket does its job.
No bodge inside engine either, stuff with rags to keep it out.
Scorpa tanks are notorious for ethanol issues. A friend has one that was so bad he couldn't get through a tank of fuel without the particles of the deteriorating tank clogging the pilot jet.
The guy at the airport rode trials in the past and was sympathetic. He suggested the same, indirectly. Thing is, I don't want to rely on a fuel source that is not consistent. Last thing I want is to adjust the jetting accordingly only to not be able to get fuel before an event.
Well, although that is the first time I have heard of this tank problem on a Scorpa, anything is possible(no Scorps expert here)and quite honestly, I have seen worse things from the stuff. Makes me wonder if Mike or Ryan have any insight on this?
Couple of good things, about the avgas, first, you are in a cooler climate and much less likely to have vapor lock issues, second, as the stuff loves you long time, you could buy a years supply and keep it in those new style cans that don't vent, as the shelf life seems rather indefinite. It is perfectly legal to use off road.
Yea, them boys have skills! But at the same time, you watch some probably pretty good riders struggle like hell, kill the motors cause the ******* things won't stay running to get over a friggin rock and such. They are all over th place trying to control throttle and at the same time just ripping and tearing at the trail with little result. Nuts!
After seeing first hand what these guys did to the trails at Muenster via two Redbull Last man standings, all I can say is I do not want to HAVE to ride that way. Seen them demolish a hill 100 ft wide, looked like a WWI bombscape, friggin idiots!
Bottom line, I don't want one, not practicle other than MX or extreme enduro, and the things are a handfull on a normal trail!
The old fiberglass tanks(polyester resin) may be quickly eroded by the alcohol, but as far as I have heard, the plastic tanks do not have this issue and no reason to slosh them for liner deterioration. I fear this may create more problems due to poor bonding to the parent material. you may have a big FU here!
clue: If you need a tail number to get avgas, just pick a small cessna or piper on the ramp with nice big numbers painted in it starting with N----! The stuff is not taxed for ON road vehicles, and is not really for our use, but does work, although it is blended for cooler temps than we use it.
How often do the seals need to be replaced? Will not using the bike during cold weather/snow have any negative effects? I understand about when the seal gets crud in it or damaged and so forth, but typically how long should they last?
Thanks, new to the feet-up scene.
T
I presume you are referring to fork seals since you mention crud and damage.
I think they will last indefinitely if kept clean and there are no abrasive nicks on the tube to cut them.
My '07 seals are original, but I use the "booties" to keep crud out, as the standard wipers are limited against mud.
Possible some of the Scorpa guys can post up an idea, but I need a pic cause I cannot recall exactly what they look like, other than possibly a bit different from some others.
What is the weight on it? One thing I have thought of many times is just how (not only)tall, but massive these things are built as compared to light nimble trials machines.
I have been known to smoke a few enduro riders in the tight knarly wood/rock sections.
cheers copemech... gonna review finances tonight and see if i can scratch together enough to buy a new stator.. dont see much point in any 2nd ebay jobbies, they are half the price but who knows how long they'l last... ?
any one know, if i buy a new one, do they carry any kind of guarentee or if the new one fails a few months down the line is it just hard luck ?
gonna get me a "racing loom" whilst im at it, i dont think i could get all the lighting circuits stuffed back in the frame enough to be what i would consider neat and tidy.... bloody wires !!!
one last thought....its a long shot..... before it died completley, nelly1 had an idea of blasting (and i mean blasting) the stator with wd40 incase it was wet..... wd40 is non conductive, right ? is it possible that this could be an issue, if so, any suggestions as to what i could use to remove the wd40 coating which is now all over the stator.... ??? i know the actual coils have some kind of laquer coating so i wouldnt know what to use and not stripp that off.... gotta be worth a shot beofre i start ordering parts....
In my impression things go something like this:
The basic components in stator are sealed and somewhat inert to water. I have seen then them run 1/4 full of water trapped in the cover.
The hall effect sensors(which according to Steve is what generally fails) are solid state units and sealed.
The wd40 does drive out moisture, and does seem relatively inert to the coil windings and such. Leaves something of a protective barier against corrosion and such. I would use air to blow out any excess and dry things a bit. I do not think WD is totally electrically inert, yet probably little difference here.
So all said, trapped moisture in there and corrosion cannot be good, yet doubtful it will save a faulty hall sensor. You still want to try to insure your mag cover is either sealing properly(which few do), is inspected and cleaned regularly(after wash) or vented(or both the latter).
After attending the Ontario CA Endurocross, I am amazed by the popularity of this sport among young (and a few old)Trials Riders. A $100. entry, and about 1 hr of total riding time the whole day!
Speed,Fame,Money,..... the reasons lost on me.
Just look at the "crash value" not the cash value! Totally rad!
The exchange stators from Chris are repaired/ rebuilt by Steve at motoplat UK I believe. Steve is highly respected and seems to have few problems. Chris does everyone a great service by keeping these things on hand and available for either use or testing. Otherwise, you can send yours off for testing, but you may have a couple weeks downtime.
I am sure there ia some warranty period.
New ones are too costly with little benifit over proper working unit..
Hey guys, I own a '09 cabestany replica 290 and have recently sprung a leak in the left fork leg...Someone told me that it holds 330ml but someone else told me to fully compress the leg and top it up 120mm from the top? Any ideas on what method to use would be appreciated! thanks
The left fork on that year model holds 385ml from empty.
If I gotta pull one down to change a seal anyway, is just seems easier to me to put 385 back in.
The right (damper)side is different at 370, but you gotta remove the damper and pump it dry to get all the old oil out or you will have a problem.
thanks for advice guys... yes, it seems in my naivety i was mis informed re: the stator recall etc... load of pants.
cope,
i did disconnect the kill switch to see if that changed anything, all i did was undo the spade conector off it tho,and leave the earth end conected to the frame , do i need to anything else other then just disconect it to elimainate the switch?
No
the coil is lleonelli, but ill have to buy a fly wheel puller to get at the stator.........
They are cheap and good to have about.
the earth contacts your talking about,? i see the one on the inside of the frame next to where the coil is sited ,thats good and tight,and i presume the top fuel tank bolt which also holds the coil and thyrister thingy in, is that an earth connection as well ?
Cannot recall the exact point, on the side I think, short wire from cdi.
given that the ht lead has been scollopped by the fan, would it be likely that the coil is damaged due to arcing etc and over cooking things ( i did have an issue not long ago with the bike running extrememly hot???) ir do i just go straight for a stator ?
Possible but doubt it, as many have rubbed without problem
does any one know if will spalt supply both and refund the non offender ?
Yes, seems yours will likely have the "early style" stator. Look closely for any wire rubs onit as well.
my gut feelings are, and knowing sods law, its the stator, but i will have to renew the coil aswell due to the damaged ht lead.... doh!!! Not neccessarily, it is what it is if protected now.
OK the reason I asked was because in other forums the bike has been received as, possibly, the best looking enduro bike ever. I just wondered if you lot agreed.
Bit like looking at a 21 year old Spanish girl ain't it? Lots of fire, runs like hell for a bit, cannae keep up anyway!
I liked the look of the one with the 4RT motor in the enduro frame Mont.
Beta and Sherco have them too! They all look the Mutts! I think 2T still rules, but I have found no real joy riding these tall tweaky bikes on trails and such, nor the 4T's for that matter. They are full race, and I don't wanna race all the friggin time.
I shall try to ease your pain a bit, but not too much.
In a quick read through your report, I did not see that you had checked the earth on the CDI, which must be tight and clean, or eliminated the kill button/switch, which could be shorted.
Other than that, contact Splatshop Chris for component parts to swap(CDI and stator)to isolate the problem.
I think '03 was the split year for ignitions and it could be Ducati or Leonelli, so you may need to remove the flywheel cover to see what you got. The Ducati was clearly marked as I recall on the rotor. The early Leonelli was the one with no timing index marks and required some odd adjustment with a timing pin, so in this case be careful to note original stator plate position to go back the exact same if possible.
I have never heard of a recall on this side of the pond, nor the forums, but? Isolation using a meter has been historically iffy and poor, as we have no real way of dynamic testing these things in the field.
, so has anyone got any tips for when removing this?, im planning on removing it from where the radihator is i believe it will fit through there with the sides off of the frame (heard this on another thread). 
270 engine strip down
in Beta
Posted
Rods always have a bit of rocking and side to side play, should have no up-down and rotate smoothly.
Venting the cover by removal or a 3mm drain hole is your option. Weight is optional and slows the revs.
Sounds as though you need to get the rumbling loose mains an seals out and you will be OK, Very typical unless you find worse!