Ok I'm looking to replace the old amal concentric mk1 carb on the Ossa mar 350 and I've come across the Nibbi carb. Are they any good? Anybody used one?
Thank you I've looked but they only have the polished ones and they're more than I can afford. Thanks again for your suggestion it's most appreciated. 👍
here's a thought; Is winning that important. Or is enjoying riding your machine the point.
I always set out with the intention of winning, usually goes out the window after a couple of sections, because if i didnt then whats the point i might as well save the money and go "practicing". I enjoy the element of competition and "practicing" bores me to tears after 10 mins because it doesnt matter if you cock it up so i find i learn or develop very little a bit like if i enter an event with no personal incentive of winning. To progress i need to "dig deep" sometimes to "pull it back" or "send it". Just me i suppose but thats the way it is with me.
I suppose its about whatever makes you happy and gives you enjoyment. If it was just about being out riding your bike we would all be on worn out uncompetitive bikes with bald tyres and bits held on with bailing wire and tie wraps lol.
Thanks for that feet up fun. I've got two of those in my collection. I don't know if it was a local thing because I remember when Pete Oakley rode his TY 250 A at a Sutton Falcons trial at Teversal he let me have a go on it and I couldn't believe what a game changer it was. I remember the sticker was on it then. Just wish I could remember the names of the other two riders in the team ? Someone else must remember it's only 45 years ago ?
Does anyone remember in the early 70's when the TY 250 A model came out Mick Andrews organised a TY 250 for Pete Oakley and a couple of other riders. They sported some stickers with the riders names, the Yamaha tuning fork logo and Mick Andrews trials team. Ideally I'd like an image as I want one to complete a period restoration. Can anyone help please?
Currently have a Bantam which i built from scratch, Beta rev 3 which i have nearly finished restoring, TY 250 twinshock work in progress and TY 250 mono also work in progress.
Basically i have these because i've accumulated them over 15 years bit by bit and they are all i can afford.
Since moving to Wales and discovering trials are much less popular and few and far between i keep myself amused by restoring the "projects" i've got.
Couldnt afford much else and i would'nt be able to ride it anyway.
90 deg wont work in practice for the reason Trapezeartist mentioned. Two threaded bosses are the way to go. In the real world you very rarely use full lock as you run the risk of the front end tucking under. I would not exceed 80 deg but would also fit threaded bosses. M6 is fine angled so that the head of the bolt, I use allen bolts but choice is free, contacts the yoke at 90 deg.
I suspect I've been around trials about as long as you have but I've never heard the theory about odd/even sprocket wearing less quickly. I can"t figure out why that would be the case.
Any ideas on the theory behind this belief?
The theory goes that with both even number sprockets then the outer links and inner links always run on the same teeth wearing the sites of the sprockets accordingly. With an odd and an even number combination this doesnt happen resulting in more even wear to the sides of the sprockets. As previously mentioned though because in trials applications the chain and sprockets wear out so quickly it may be irrelevant. Perhaps more important on road bikes. Just asking.
I've got a question about sprockets. Now i've always believed that ideally you should have an odd number and an even number i.e. 11 tooth gearbox and 42 back wheel to ensure wear was more even on both sprockets. However the std combination is 11 gearbox 41 rear wheel. Wouldn't this wear the sprocket unevenly. Alternatively have i had it wrong all these years or doesn't it matter any more ?
It's a tubeless tyre on a tubeless rim - the air doesn't know it's in a tube so exerts the same pressure in the same places as it would otherwise so no great problem. I'm told, though have not experienced it, that a standard tubeless set up can creep slightly so at worst you'll be no worse off than with a standard tubed set up, being able to see the valve move if it does. I used a tube as you intend to and had no problems on a Rev3. No doubt long term tube users will be on soon.
Thank you. Just what i wanted actual experience. Cheers
I've been running twinshocks and Pre 65 all my life but have recently bought a 270 Rev 3 and upon investigation the rim is corroded on the inside, not as bad as a twinshock Honda or Air cooled Yamaha if you know what i mean, around all the spoke nipples and i think this is why it kept going down. I've cleaned it up as best i can but cant get into around each nipple without a wheel rebuild and is so would probably just have to fit a new rim. I've been told by a couple of people that you can run a tubeless tyre on a tubeless rim with a tube but without security bolts. Now from past experience with pre 65 and twinshocks, ok they were tubed tyres on tubed rims, this would be a recipe for disaster and a valve ripped out.
Is this correct and has anyone here run a tubeless tyre on a tubeless rim without security bolts succesfully ? I will be running approx 4 p.s.i. teh same as on my other bikes btw.
To me way way too much work involved converting what is basically a road bike into a trials bike. For example throw away the forks, wheels, tank, oil tank, side panels, foot rests, stand,seat, shocks, mudguards, bars and levers, exhaust etc. Frame to be de lugged and modified to make it competitive or even better junk the frame and buy / build a proper trials one out of T45 or CDS to modern angles and ground clearence. While youre at it might as well make it oil in frame too. A lot of work
Nibbi carburettors
in OSSA
Posted
Ok I'm looking to replace the old amal concentric mk1 carb on the Ossa mar 350 and I've come across the Nibbi carb. Are they any good? Anybody used one?