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craig10

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Posts posted by craig10
 
 
  1. 11 hours ago, cub200 said:

    Nobody has answered my question, why is there no comments on TC about the Pre65, SSDT or World rounds, does someone else have a monopoly ?????????.

     

     

     

    As Turbofurball says, it all seems to have migrated to the Club or District FB pages or other Forums, certainly the case up here in Scotland. I think the news feeds are posted up by the clubs etc, so if they've moved on to their own platforms then it seems there is no longer a centralised outlet which TC once was.  

    • Like 1
  2. Ok I get it now, it's a roller bearing and the inner race is on the crank, can certainly hear the knocking in the video.  I thought it would be a ball race like the old motors hence the Loctite suggestion.

    Not that many options as it would prove difficult to remove the inner race from the shaft without damaging it although I've seen similar drop off getting quick heat into them.  It may be worth measuring up the race or take the crank into your local bearing factor to measure it to see if they can get you anything similar but it may be that Honda have their own unique sizes.

    As you say, probably best to try a new roller first before going down the rabbit hole...

     

  3. How much wear are we taking about?  Does the new bearing just drop on to the shaft / did you have to pull the old one off or did it come off easily?

    If it feels like just a transition fit then Loctite 641 Bearing Fit would be worth a go.

    P.S. You could upload the video to Youtube and put the link on here

    Craig

  4. The drawing in the Clymer book is for the CB/XL/SL series of engines which have a different set-up on the engine left side.  Those engines have an internal flywheel where the stator coils are outside the magnet, the genuine TL engines have an external flywheel where the stator coils are held inside the cover referred to by Naichuff with the rotor spinning around the outside of them.

    What letters does the engine number start with?

     

    Image result for tl125 alternator casing  This is what the TL casing should look like, the hole at the top is where the timing pointer should be.

     

  5. You could try measuring the distance from the swingarm pivot centre to the rear axle centre, should be the same both sides.  That will tell you if your cams are correct.

    Maybes your wheel has been rebuilt with a different offset to the original, I'm sure someone on here could give you an offset reading from an unmolested wheel as a check.

  6. I just use Michelin heavy duty enduro tubes and carry a bog standard old style motorcycle puncture outfit.  The HD tubes (not the ultra hd ones) seem to help guard aginst compression punctures.  

    I don't personally carry any of the aerosol type repairs but I'm sure some will come along who do.

    One time I was spectating at the Manx Classic and the CoC took control of a puncture repair for a guy who had got left behind.  He left the wheel in place, took the tyre off one side of the rim then slipped the tube out as far as poss without removing the valve from the rim.  He then found and pulled a thorn out the tyre, pumped the tube up, found the leak, patched it and the guy was on his way in what seemed like minutes compared to taking the wheel out.

    Obviously not so easy to run your hand round the inside of the tyre to check it's clear but if there's an obvious cause then you're mostways there.

    • Like 2
  7. Vinnie, go for the one with the wide neck, that way you can fill it at a petrol pump if need be as well as from your petrol can.  The small diameter neck ones are a PITA, you need to use a funnel to fill them.

    Also, I recommend you get the clear Fuel Friend, saves covering your boots in petrol when filling them up.  And you know how much is in it when part full.

    Like this https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/Jerry-Can-2l-HDPE-Bike-ATV-Scooter-Fuel-Friend-Germany/1207932472?_trksid=p2047675.m4096.l9055

     

    Craig

    • Like 1
  8. Interesting bit of machining Blueflag, how tight a fit are you going for on your liner, given the different coefficients of expansion of steel  / alloy? 

    And how are you going to stop the liner from turning, just by the interference fit alone?  Or with the aid of a bit of Loctite or similar?

    Cheers,

    Craig

 
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