If it has a Olle shock it will need the correct bushes. The spherical bearings are different from the ones fitted to the Showa shocks.
Many thanks for the answer. Just got to work out now whether I've got the wrong bearing or spacers. I'm geussing it's the spacers as I'm sure the bearing would come to the factory pre fitted.
As my previous threads have said I've bought an unused 2020 260 mont. It is brand new and unused. Oddly I noticed play in the top shock bearing. I tried to tighten up the bolt but it was tight enough. I took off the shock and it appears the bushes do not sit properly in the spherical bearing.
I'm convinced either the factory has fitted the wrong bearing to the correct bushes or vice versa. After noticing that my chain tensioner block had been fitted upside down nothing would suprise me. Aren't dealers supposed to pdi bikes ?
Im wondering if maybe the factory fitted showa bushes or bearings onto Olle bearings or bushes. They would have had both in the factory for the different spec bikes. If you look at the photos of both bushes they look pretty identical but I'm not sure if they are incompatible. They certainly have different prices so maybe they are. Interestingly the shock bolt was one of the few bolts that didn't have the inspection paint blob on from the factory. I've just taken my shock up to my local trials shop so they can get to the bottom of it and save me ordering parts unnecessarily.
I found that the map switch didn't seem to make a lot of a difference for me tell I swapped out the throttle tube from the black/slow to a white/fast tube. At that point the difference between the wet and dry map settings became much more noticeable in my option.
Hope that helps.
My mate who had four 4rts in a row said to fit a fast throttle too. I may try the one off my beta and see how it rides.
Could anybody tell me what map 1 and map 2 are best suited for. I've ridden both modes on the same section and can't notice any difference. On my Beta 300 2t the map switching positions are very noticeable on how the bike performs.
Also where have people repositioned this switch? I seem to constantly knock it into map 2. I think my lanyard is hitting it. I saw one mont where the map switch was neatly mounted on the radiator hose by the kickstart tip
I think trials bikes are about 114cm high but if I was you, get your vans garage built big enough to fit a Motocross or enduro bike instead. They are much taller than trials bikes but many more people do Motocross/ enduro. When you come to sell the van it will appeal to a far bigger audience. I'm speaking from harsh experience having just sold my last race van which could only accommodate a trials bike. Worth considering.
If you want it to last, suggest you grease the tensioner pivot,dogbone bearings (inc ones in swinging arm)and the wheel bearings. Others have found the steering head bearings to be a bit lacking of grease as well. Hope this helps.
Yes definitely agree. When I fitted the swingarm, frame and fork protectors I removed all spindles and greased. They certainly weren't greased to the level I would do.
I hate doing linkages but I thing it would be a job worth doing sooner rather than later. Thanks
I've noticed that my Montesa 4rt which is new to me has a slack chain. Bike is 2020 but brand-new as previous owner had it as an ornament. I noticed a slight clinking noise when oiling the chain on the paddock stand before my first ride on fri. But on closer inspection I'm wondering is my chain tensioner block upside down. The chain must be making the clinking noise when it catches the frame on the horizontal bottom tube under the swingarm pivot bolt. With the tensioner block in the opposite direction facing up it would raise the height of the chain and solve this issue. Am I right in thinking this is the wrong way round? Surely the factory hasn't fitted it upside down ? Bike was brand-new and unridden when I got my hands on it.
How does this thing pop out for cleaning? My Beta ones just popped out. These look pretty flimsy so I didn't want to force it. Do you bend it in the middle and pull from the middle and then squeeze the four little plastic tabs that are fitted through the mounting holes?
I’m pretty sure that’s the right way. I usually take the stand off completely, saves some weight and there’s usually something around to park the bike on
I hope it's the right way. I am reluctant to do it again. I've always been a fan of side stands as I was tired of scrubbing off the grip marks on the side of my vans where I use to lean my bike against it.
Been fitting my swing arm protectors. I had to take the side stand off to fit my swing arm protectors. I thought this would have been a ten minute job. The drive side was just two bolts but the side stand side was a nightmare. Unless I was being totally stupid it appears you have to undo the side stand pivot bolt to create space to get a socket on the two m8 bolts that hold the stand to the swingarm. I don't have a spring puller so had to refit springs first then lever side stand back into position and get pivot bolt through. I spent a whole hour trying to line up this pivot bolt as I couldn't get it to thread into the threaded section of the side stand. It went straight in without the tension of the spring but was an absolute dog of a job with spring in situ. Eventually got it in but am now worried if I've got the spring orientation correct. The springs (one fits inside the other) look very close to the tyre. Does it matter which way round they go? The thought of doing it again is painful. Why the m8 bolts aren't Allen hex heads I don't know as they would be easier to access without having to undo the pivot bolt.
One of the benefits with the Montesa is that the engine and the transmission oil is separate so if you want to play a little with amount for how the clutch response, as I know some have, I suspect it shouldn't cause to much of an issue to set it a little lower (not to much as noted though).
On that note I have done a little testing with different oils in my 07 4RT and my 17 300RR and in the process did end up with a little low on the transmission once but didn't find it made much of a difference. I found that the type of oil made a much bigger difference in how the clutch felt than the amount did. I have had the best results with the ELF HTX740 and the NILS Clutch Trial and I suspect I could get even better results if I switched out the plates to the after market dimpled set.
Hope that helps a little on the perspective side of the fence. good luck.
Thanks for the info. I'm days away from my first outing on it. The Mitani bashplate should be here by the weekend and all the protective covers are in situ. Once it's fitted I'm good to go !! I'm almost looking forward to my first oil change .
Engine oil capacity after draining 0.41 liter (0.43 US qt, 0.36 Imp qt)
after oil filter change 0.44 liter (0.46 US qt, 0.39 Imp qt)
after disassembly 0.60 liter (0.63 US qt, 0.53 Imp qt)
Specified transmission oil ELF HTX740 (75W)
Transmission oil capacity after draining 0.54 liter (0.57 US qt, 0.48 Imp qt)
after disassembly 0.57 liter (0.60 US qt, 0.50 Imp qt)
Thanks for the info.
Ive read a lot of posts about ATF in the 4rt. Why not ? My old beta rev loved it and it made the clutch so much better. Oddly in my Evo I've always ran putolene nanotech in my Evo 2t to good effect.
I was asking about the oil quantities as the betas run considerably better on less oil than is manafacture recommended. I was wondering if the same applied to monts. You obviously go by the book and I'll do the same.
I did the full carbon fiber case covers, after a friend cracked the left side case by the oil passage at the top. Hairline crack, but he had to get towed back to the pits.
I have done the same. Engine covers, frame covers, swingarm covers and fork slider covers. Just the sump bash plate to get now. I always cover my bike with guards. The way I ride it's essential!!
The stock guard is fine. I waited six months for my bike and in the mean time bought all the CSP bling except the foot peg brackets. The frame at the brackets is the weakest link of the whole bike. Better to bend the stock bracket.
The bolt was just long enough to add a nut to. To change the oil filter just back off the bolts and remove the small rubber along the case. I silicone the pad back in place.
Thanks for the info. I'm tempted to go for the Mitani full protection with the side wings. I'm just going to have to get use to the oil change procedure. I'm sure the more I do it the quicker I'll get.
Many thanks for the information and the pictures. Very useful indeed. Yes it definitely protects the underside more. I honestly had no idea before I bought the bike what a faff an oil change was on the 4rt. I had a beta Rev 4 in 2008 and an oil and filter change was a simple task. I'm sure the Evo 4t is similar.
What length bolts have you got on the back ? I see h&d racing do there own sump guard for £110 which looks pretty similar.
I also see you have bought a case protector around the front sprocket. Is the standard montesa one no good ?
You can get a TRS or Gas Gas brake hose guide (of Ebay) that will clip on the fork above the lower triple clamp, then tighten it in the desired position.
Thanks for that. Yes that would be perfect. I'll order one from trials UK.
2020 Montesa 4rt Olle r16 shock top bushes
in Montesa
Posted
Brilliant answer. Many thanks. So it is the right bearings with the wrong collars.