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gazzaecowarrior

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Posts posted by gazzaecowarrior
 
 
  1. Hi there. I'm going to fit a new bashplate to my montesa. I see CSP do one and Mitani do a few too. Does anybody have one of these fitted so I can see from underneath the bike what extra they actually protect. The bike is actually a brand new 2020 bike that some guy had as an ornament and I would like to protect the underside as best I can as my local practice area is all streams and rocks. My beta is scuffed to hell on the frame near the foot peg hangers. I would rather avoid the same happening on this lovely mont.

  2. Hello. I've just bought a 2020 4rt 260. Was wondering how people route their front brake hose cable. Mine is clipped to the top of the fork slider and from then up it is not routed or clipped to anything. I'm worried the hose will snag on something i.e tree etc.

    It doesn't look like it simply passes through the headlight assembly like on my beta, or does it ?

    Does anybody have any photos how they have done theirs? There doesn't seem to be any space on the headlight to mount a hose guide. I'm sure it shouldn't be free floating as it currently is.

    Thanks.IMG_20230102_152533891.thumb.jpg.c805cd6517e5145661460c9e7e53fe23.jpg

     

     

  3. 11 hours ago, stpauls said:
    Sherco or Scorpa TY 124 4T Classic or Adventure, 2019 onwards.
     
    If you want a small 4T Trials bike to use in Novice sections, then your choice is very limited.  This bike is quite good IF you do some work to it first.
     
    The engine is a Jianshe 125 6C, made by Jianshe-Yamaha, in China. It is a clone of a Yamaha TTR.  The engine parts are interchangeable.   The factory is part-owned by Yamaha.  Any small Yamaha motorcycle purchased in Europe has it's engine made by Jianshe - Yamaha, in China - even if it says Yamaha on the engine cases!  
    The carburettor is a Mikuni BS25.  Used in some quads.  It is a good carb for this bike.  The standard jetting is: pilot/slow jet = 17.5.  The main jet is 130.  If you fit a 150cc big bore kit, you need to increase the size of the main jet to 150.
     
    If you want to use it competitively for Trials, you will need to:
    Minimum:
    1.  Change the tires - Michelin trials tires. Or, Michelin front, IRC on the rear.
    2.  One tire clamp on the front.  Two tire clamps on the back.
    3.  Put a spring tip on the rear brake lever.
    4.  Replace the exhaust pipe and CAT with a pipe from S3, or, buy an even better one from: Iron Davis at Excel Engineering, in the UK: 01554 751935.  Same price.
    Additionally:
    5.  The clutch is quite stiff and very on/off.  Make the clutch actuator arm longer to make the pull lighter and to provide more control.  I also removed the hydraulic clutch on mine and replaced it with an ordinary clutch lever.  Much, much better clutch control.
    6.  Fit an in-line fuel filter.  The pilot jet hole is tiny and it is hassle to get to, to clean.
    7.  I found mine to be a bit too quick in the Sections, so as the engine sprocket is very small, Talon, in Yeovil made me a 63 tooth rear sprocket, to replace the standard 57 tooth. 
    8.  Remove all the lights, horn etc.  Install a Stop switch.
    9.  I removed the heavy battery and heavy starter motor from mine and repositioned all the electrics up near the steering head.  Additionally, removed the starter motor gears from inside the engine.  The kick start works fine.  Remove the spring from the right hand foot peg to enable the kickstart to clear the footpeg.
    10. The engine cases overhang the standard bash plate by quite a bit.  You can buy a proper one from Excel Engineering, in the UK: 01554 751935
     
    Hope this helps.

    Thanks for the info. That is very helpful. What is the suspension front and rear like ?

  4. On 11/3/2022 at 1:02 PM, Ginettaman said:

    Has anyone found a good colour match or paint code for the Beta frames in white? It may be that Beta used powder coat originally but I'd like to touch up repair some paint damage? Beta uk don't have any 2021 frame tank decals in stock which I'd also like.

    Thanks

    I'd like to know this paint code or a suitable alternative too. 

    In regards to the stickers I bought some jitsie stealth stickers for my 2020 Evo.  They will fit your bike.

  5. I think it helps keep the sport accessible and competitive as pretty much everybody is riding on the same tyres. Trials is one of the cheapest motorsports and having everyone riding on the same tyres means that ability rather than expenditure will give all riders a fairer and more equal role of the dice.

    • Like 3
  6. 1 hour ago, Drehmoment said:

    Thanks ! That matches my experience with gaerne. Do you also think they are on the soft side at the ankle support?

    Yes the ankles are soft but it's trials not Motocross so I like the flexibility. The ankles are well cushioned yet supple. You won't be disappointed.

  7. I have size  uk15 feet. The only boot company who do a UK 15 is gaerne who do a EU 50. They are the biggest trials boot you can get. Quality boots if you get the oiled waterproof type. Not cheap at £260 but last year's if you oil them regularly. I hammer my boots every week and then jet wash them and they survive. Buckles and catches are now more plastic than they use to be but still a good boot. You can have the sole refitted too as they sell the soles separately. Gaernes get my thumbs up through default as they are the only ones that fit me.

  8. Hi there

    I snapped the tip off my Evo gear lever. Couldn't find the spring amongst the leaves. 

    Tried an as3 gear tip but it doesn't fit the OEM lever. 2020. oem lever isn't compatible in how the spring fits the lever. The nub of the gear lever is solid.

    As3 do do a complete lever which is cheaper to buy than the OEM, apico and jitsie versions and looks more solid too. However their advert says it only fits evo's up to 2019. I wasn't aware the splines on the gear selector are different are they ? Is there any other reason? I think it's a mistake as the jitsie versions and apico say they fit all year evo's.

    Any idea?

  9. 54 minutes ago, marky dee said:

     

    20220122_130945.jpg

    20220122_131226.jpg

    Thanks so much for your photos. I can't believe it fits in. Is it definitely the swb you have ? It's like a TARDIS !! Would it fit without the top bulkhead removed ? Do you just roll the bike in or does it need a lean to the side to get it in? Thanks once again for the pics .

  10. 3 hours ago, theluckyone said:

    Hi

    I had 2012 Berlingo swb, bike fits in no problem. Then had transit connect swb again no problem but nicer van to drive. 3 people in a van is a tight squeeze though unless two of them are kids.

    I would buy a LWB Transit Connect if I was buying a small van again. Currenty running a VW T6 which is great but I've noticed none of these vans makes me ride any better. 

    My Mrs is tiny and my son is 7 so I'm not too worried about the size of the seat. She hates being in a car with me anyway!!

    • Confused 1
  11. 7 hours ago, cleanorbust said:

    On a similar note, I use and would recommend a Fiat Doblo - takes one bike with all seats fitted or two bikes with rear seats (easily) removed. 

    You'd be better off with a car version than a van to avoid the lower speed limits imposed on panel vans.

    Thanks for the info. I would really like a 3 front seats van style type. I think the doblo only comes with two front seats. 

  12. Hi there. I'm currently thinking of selling our motorhome which is also my motorcycle transport. I just want a small van with 3 front seats. I've been looking at the new shape Citroen Berlingo and Peugeot partner 2019 onwards. It seems they come in a short and longer wheelbase. I was wondering if anyone has any experience and maybe photos of fitting their trials bikes in one of these vans. The long wheelbase one can probably fit a bike in straight against the side? Can you fit a bike in the short wheel base model ? I see part of the passenger seat folds forward. Can you get the front wheel through there ? Have people had to remove the bulkhead to get bikes in ? I would really appreciate some opinions and photos of bikes in situ.  Thanks.

  13. 7 hours ago, MIckyT said:

    Araldite the magnet in and put the lanyard on throttle side  you wont need both  

    Ive fitted an apico lanyard this time instead of the leonelli one. It looks like the metal disc is crimped in on the edges rather than glued so hopefully it will last longer. I jb welded the leonelli one and it never came off again.

  14. 20 hours ago, trapezeartist said:

    I believe the kill switch and lanyard both work the same way, by shorting something to earth, so no they won't work in series. Connect both feed wires to the same source and both earth wires to the same point (probably on the frame).

    However, why do you even need to do it? When I had a 2014 Evo, I found it super easy to just lift the red plastic thingie on the lanyard for a couple of seconds to switch off. If it's because you need to hold onto the clutch because you can't get neutral, either reach across with your right hand (which was what I did) or mount the lanyard switch on the right hand side.

    The only reason I want the kill button as well is that I found the lanyard Magnet's have a short life expectancy and quickly unbond. I've been through 2 already. Therefore the kill button would isolate engine whenever needed and the lanyard would be the rare but inevitable parting company with bike .

  15. 10 hours ago, Nishijin said:

    Sorry, I was out all day on the green lanes!

     

    Why not splice the push button onto the lanyard? You can always redo or undo whatever you’ve done. 

    Yes i may do that at a later date. It sounds relatively straightforward how you explained it. Thanks.

  16. 50 minutes ago, Nishijin said:

    It won’t work because the kill button is not “always closed”, it is “always open”. What that means is, when you press the button it closes a circuit causing the short and the bike to stall.

     

    if you put the lanyard in series, on one wire only, it means that you need to press the button AND pull the lanyard to kill the engine.

     

    Take one wire from the lanyard and splice to the brown. Take the other wire from the lanyard and splice to the black … like in the photos of mine.

     

    Use bullet connectors or solder them, whatever you wish. 

    I wish I had read that earlier. I've just finished fitting the lanyard kill switch on its own. I just replaced like with like. Thanks anyway.

  17. 8 hours ago, Nishijin said:

    Sounded like you are trying to attach the switch in series (cutting only one cable) and not in parallel.

    Will that not work ? My limited electric knowledge suggests the kill switch is just a on off switch so by cutting into one wire and fitting another on off switch it should work ? 

    I would be grateful if you could tell me simply what I should do. On my current kill button I have one brown and one black wire. How should I wire in the new lanyard so that both work ?

 
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