Hi there. Just upgraded my old 2012 Evo for a newer 2020 model. It already has a press type kill switch fitted. On my old 2012 bike I replaced the dreaded original frame mounted kill button / headlight switch unit with a lanyard type kill switch. I loved it and it saved me on many occasions when I parted company with the bike.
However I constantly felt it was easier just to stall the bike rather than pull the lanyard every time I wanted to stop the engine in a non emergency setting. So on this bike I want to fit a lanyard kill switch as well as the standard kill button. I have taken a photo of the existing kill button wiring. I was planning on just cutting into the brown wire circled in the photo above the snap connector and wiring the two lanyard wires to the two newly created brown wire ends. Am I right in thinking this will work and give me a working kill button and lanyard isolator together? I have circled where I plan to cut the brown wire.
Hi there. I bought a fork fork seal kit, retaining clip and dust seals for my 2012 Evo 125. They are for the 38mm paoili forks. Never fitted them as I don't need them yet. I'm selling the bike and buying a 2020 Evo 300. Will these seals fit the new bike or should I sell them with the old bike? I understand the 2020 has 38mm forks but not paoili.
Definitely wear them. I did my ACL, MCL and pcl simultaneously on my trials bike. I haven't competed since but still ride weekly. I now wear mobius Moto X knee braces as not only do they protect ligaments but offer good patella and upper tibial protection from impacts. I brace both my good and bad knees.
I think I've found the problem with the idling on my Beta Evo 125. It has always been rich on idle. I changed the 55 pilot to 52 and it dramatically improved things. Now idles ok at 1.75 turns out compared to the 3.5 on the 55 jet.
But I noticed when I was cleaning out the pilot circuit prior to fitting new pilot jet that when I put carb cleaner down the pilot jet hole it fizzed out of the mating surface between the jet block and the carb body. Im thinking this will cause incorrect idling due to over richness of fuel so I want to replace the o-ring for the jet tower. Problem is nobody in the UK seems to sell the genuine part and postage plus part from the USA or Europe seems to be astronomical close to £20.
Was wondering if anyone has used any of the cheap rebuild kits on eBay (see photo). I can buy one for £9.99 and all the gaskets are there. Are they any good before I waste my money and time on them ?
Good evening Gazza. My 2019 250 Evo came with ( and still has ) a 48 pilot jet. I haven't come across anything as high as that in my previous Evo's. A 55 would make it rather rich.
Mixture / air screw or whatever you want to call it is usually about 1 3/4 turns out.
For peace of mind, check with lampkins.
Hi there. Yes I spoke to lampkins on Thursday and they confirmed the 55 and 130 were standard jets for my 125. My needle was on the 4rth clip down and they said to put it middle. Top end and middle run perfectly with needle in middle and 130 main jet. It just seems to not idle well at low revs unless I increase the tick over. Lampkins also recommended a bp5es plug instead of the Br7es and said to set air screw at 2.5 out.
I think I may drop a size in the pilot jet and see how it performs.
My beta Evo seems to idle well about 3.25 turns out on the air screw. I'm convinced it's idling rich. I seem to be turning the idle screw in so much to maintain idle I think I'm bypassing the idle circuit. I'm considering a smaller pilot jet. It currently has the standard 55 pilot jet 130 main jet and middle clip on needle. Mid and top end power is perfect so I don't want to fiddle with that end.
I don't want to buy a pilot jet assortment kit but instead would just like to buy one original keihin pilot jet. I'm just wondering what size should I buy ? It seems keihin sell 52, 50, 48 and further down. How much of a difference would 52 make compared to my current 55 or will I need to get lower than a 52. Any suggestions welcomed.
Well I took the bike out yesterday. With exactly the same fuel all day. First hour I ran the Br7es. Took it out to check it. Black dry carbonized plug. Then fitted the br6es and rode the bike for another hour. Removed the plug and once again black dry carbonized.
Im going to try 0.25 turns out in the air screw next and see if that helps. Bike is running really well though.
My missus' Evo 250 runs a BR5ES. It is what was in the bike when we bought it. I researched a bit on here as I also read the manual and it says a 7 heat value. I found a post that suggested 5 was better for a "cold climate". No idea if that is right or not. However the bike still has the same plug in it and has run 2 years without any issues at all. Never had the plug out to look at it if I am honest. It runs on V-Power 99 and Putoline TT Pro at a 80:1 mix or thereabouts. Starts first kick (well with me - wife takes a few more prods). Can't fault the engine (suspension is pants and the brakes not so hot either) I bought a spare plug and bought a 5 just in case the 7 made it harder to start. (After research it seems to me the starting has nothing to do with the heat value - so I have learned something in the process)
A lot depends on how long you run the engine. Some trials bikes just run 20 seconds in a section, then cool down in the 10 minutes waiting for the next section. Enduro bikes, or some moto-cross, run for up to an hour of full throttle action. I hope the NGK BR6ES works for you... ( Other brands of spark plug are available.)
Thanks. I no longer compete so my riding consists of riding for no more than 5 mins at a time then stop for 5 then ride again and so on. It is typical low revs trials 1st and 2nd gear with blips of throttle. It will be interesting to see what difference 1 grade hotter plugs makes.
Will fit a br6es then and try that. My plug is exactly like the plug in the photo where the heat range is too high. One step down on the plug with all other variables such as fuel and carb kept the same will be an interesting experiment.
A hotter plug will not change the combustion process but will change the temperature of the plug (hotter). Use plug accordingly to the manual and importer instructions. If you run Alkylat petrol like Aspen combustion would be cleaner. You may start with Aspen 4T and mix yourself, but give it some time to clean the engine https://aspenfuel.co.uk/
Surely hotter the plug leaving less carbon on the plug will ultimately effect and improve combination?
I have tried everything to get my 2012 beta Evo 125 running well and I'm almost there. I'm just wondering if I need a hotter plug. My plug is always carbonised. It is dry black not oily wet.
My previous evos all had perfect colour plugs and we're light tan whenever I checked them.
Im now running 80:1 Castrol power 1 fully synthetic. Air screw is 2.5 turns out. Exhaust and silencer fully decarbonized, carb standard setting and air filter spotless. I run 99 octane petrol.
My current plug is a ngk Br7es. I understand the higher the number the colder the plug with ngk. So I'm tempted to drop to br6es. I'm in the UK so it's seldom warm. Does anybody think a hotter plug will help it burn better and not carbonize ?
As far as I'm aware it doesn't make any difference.
I tend to swap the directions each time I grease them on the theory it will spread the wear more evenly. I also try to mark the loaded direction (rotation) when I dismantle and put them back rotated from that for the same reason.
Probably totally over the top, but I can, so I do.
I only do the main pivots every second dismantle of the linkages as they seem to stay better lubed and cleaner (and are more of a pain to do anyway).
If you had to undo the engine mounts to re-assemble the main pivot (pretty normal in my experience) then be careful of that lower rear mount bolt - it's dear as poison (titanium they claim) and I've had one snap when undoing it, let alone tightening it. I've had a squeak develop in the suspension a couple of times which is actually that bolt coming slightly loose and the frame moving relative to the engine when the suspension is loaded, took me ages to figure it out the first time!
Thanks for the informative response. I can see the benefits of reversing the bushes too now that you have mentioned it.
I will do that the next time I pull them apart. It really was a fiddly little job.
Just spent a few hours stripping down swing arm, suspension and linkages to regrease. All bearings looked fine so used a good quality grease and reassembled. I was just wondering if it matters what orientation the bushes have to go back. Obviously one side is longer than the other. I'm pretty sure I put them all back with the wide sided bush on the outside and thinner bush on the inside. Would it matter if I have got them the other way round. I only noticed they should go back in a certain way when I looked at the beta parts diagram today. I would rather not have to take it all apart again to check if it doesn't matter.
Update for anybody interested. Took the bike out yesterday. First time out since exhaust decoked and silencer repacked. Running on 80:1. I reset the air screw too and altered the idle screw to what sounded best to my limited hearing. What a difference. Loads more power and the increased revs on an incline have all but disappeared. It must have been so choked up. Although I ordered new float and throttle cable I haven't fitted them yet as the bike seems to be running so sweetly. Thanks for everybody's input.
The float is the only thing that should be affected by angle, but you started with it. Any other cause will be something odd and unexpected, but it still has to be something that can raise the revs so; throttle, enrichment/choke, ignition advance, or an air leak.
Im going to re-examine the floats again this weekend. I will check them as described in picture 2 of that link rather than picture 3 as I did. It's worth a look.
My money is on the throttle cable, zero play with adjusters wound right in is not normal, I can't think of any way in which being on an incline would pull the throttle though. I was part thinking of this when I asked about lifting the front as it rules out the rider pressing on the cable but it sounds like that isn't the cause anyway.
80:1 is the norm, 1.5% is the figure from the Beta manual for synthetic oils, 4% for mineral.
Thanks for the oil info. I may lean mine out. Just mixed 5 litres at 50:1 with some in bike already so I will measure out remaining fuel in can and recalculate.
Although I agree there should always be some play in the throttle cable. I can't see how not having it would affect the revs on an incline. The geometry of the bike is not being altered and nothing is being pressed or squeezed. Even when on a paddack stand and I manipulate the incline the revs increase. The cable looks standard into a standard beta throttle housing. However for the sake of £15 it is well worth trying a new throttle cable. I will measure out my cable when I remove carb to do float check and compare length to new one.
The routing of Beta throttle cables isn’t the greatest. Are you bumping up against the cable? Is there any play in the cable? Do you pull the throttle full on before you start the bike to make sure the cable housing is seated?
No there is zero play on my cable. Revs do not increase however whatever position my handlebar is put in on either side of the opposite locks. No adjustments are possible to loosen and increase throttle cable play as all adjusters on throttle, cable and carb are round right in. No I don't pull throttle to seat it before starting. I will try it though thanks.
Any opinion on Castrol power 1 racing fuel mix ratio ? Container says no leaner than 50:1.
What happens if you start it up in neutral and lift the front wheel? Just to confirm that the bike being inclined is the cause, because to be honest it's baffling.
The oil choice and ratio isn't ideal, but it also isn't part of the problem, I just think you'll get spooge using a high ratio of oil that's meant for sustained high rev usage.
It happens when in neutral. I don't tend to notice it when I'm riding.
I had been using putolene strawberry but had been recommended the Castrol so I thought I'd give it a go.
Beta Evo Kill Switch and lanyard
in Beta
Posted
Hi there. Just upgraded my old 2012 Evo for a newer 2020 model. It already has a press type kill switch fitted. On my old 2012 bike I replaced the dreaded original frame mounted kill button / headlight switch unit with a lanyard type kill switch. I loved it and it saved me on many occasions when I parted company with the bike.
However I constantly felt it was easier just to stall the bike rather than pull the lanyard every time I wanted to stop the engine in a non emergency setting. So on this bike I want to fit a lanyard kill switch as well as the standard kill button. I have taken a photo of the existing kill button wiring. I was planning on just cutting into the brown wire circled in the photo above the snap connector and wiring the two lanyard wires to the two newly created brown wire ends. Am I right in thinking this will work and give me a working kill button and lanyard isolator together? I have circled where I plan to cut the brown wire.