Hi Xtrem, Beta for me, power should be softer if your thinking of a 250 then I believe the Sherco may be a bit savage. Also I believe the 2013 Sherco was early version when they put the fuel tank under the seat which may be difficult to get carburation right on.
Regular knocking noise with older chain especially on road or riding across fell can be caused by a worn split link, suggest try a new split link to start with, do not need to change full chain and sprockets unless they are worn out.
There's a warning on Richmond MC website and Facebook page advising members not to renew at the moment as the Sport 80 system has issues hence I have not tried to renew my license.
I had problems and can't find event entries either so that is not working and I cannot use the old one either.
I would rather buy a used two stroke, miss the sound and smell
I will ask at the local trial events, thinking of a TY250 mono, plenty spares about.
It is amazing how light a new trials bike is, seems about 20kg difference,,paying more for less
Hi,
TY250 mono sounds a good choice for where your at, mono suspension is a step up from twin shock SWM/Gori. More robust than modern bikes although a bit heavier. Should retain or increase in value. If you can get one go for a Pinky with disc from brake.
Hi Hughie, I commented on your 250 v 200 thread, to add comments here, everyone has different requirements. I just want a reliable bike that I wash, minimum servicing & ride and do not want to tinker (my children and grandchildren take up my spare time), therefore comments are purely on a bike to suit an aging novice.
Older twin shocks are heavier, sometimes can not kickstart in gear hence have to find neutral if stalled, clutches are heavier, tubed tyres do not grip as well as modern tubeless tyres, rear suspension is significantly worse especially getting up steps and unless something has changed since I rode them drum brakes really are poor when wet and going downhill can be a nightmare. The only advantage I can see is that they seem hold or go up in value, a modern machine generally drops.
I have great respect for Alexz Wigg and he could probably go round a trial on a Harley for a lower score than me on my modern bike however I would go for an Evo and if you get a 250 and its to much you can soften it in various ways.
What would be the difference between the TRS and the Evo with regards to manners?
Hi, My 2018 TRS250RR was quite a bit "sharper" than a standard 250 Evo even with head spacer and slow throttle. I believe the ONE R is softer per SXS advert but have never tried one.
TRS RR is a great bike with better suspension (Reiger shock & Tech forks) and feels lighter than a standard Evo. One thing with TRS is I do not believe a flywheel weight can be fitted, Beta has removable weight.
I would lean towards the Evo as a beginner when moving up from rev 3 but TRS is a great bike, easy to work on and with good support from SXS.
How a you with the rev 3, if you feel in control then moving to another 250 of any make should not be too difficult, most can be softened up.
Hi Hughie, Had several Betas; 2002 rev 3 250, 2004 rev 3 200, 2008 rev 3 250, 2010 Evo 250 and 2016 Evo 250. All good & reliable.
The EVO is better than rev 3. Big change is that from end seem much easier to lift, also turns better and generally feels lighter. I would upgrade to an Evo. On 200 v 250, a 200 is good but my mate was looking for a 200 but could not find one and bought a 250 Evo, 2020 model. I had a go and compared to my TRS 250RR which was softened with head spacer and slow throttle the Beta was softer had good soft power and was easy to ride, my mate was quite glad he had not found a 200.
Unfortunately I have a dodgy left hip and left kick start gives problems otherwise I would have a Beta Evo now and would recommend them.
As background I was at best a mid level clubman rider but now a 60+ veteran so not going up big steps etc.
Hi Hughie, apart from a Beta 200 I think you have bought a bike that should be good for a someone who is new, 125's can be underpowered and "buzzy" depending on your weight, older twinshock bikes are heavy and suspension not as good hence will be more difficult to get around a typical trial. A 250 Rev 3 with slow throttle and flywheel weight should be relatively gentle off the bottom of revs providing it has nothing wrong, only other thing would be cylinder base gaskets or low comp head to soften it more. I suggest trying to get an experienced rider to have a go to confirm its running as it should. All trials bike are relatively powerful at bottom of rev rage as this is type of power they need.
Therefore unfortunately years of riding with bikes which do not require you to learn delicate throttle & clutch control will make it difficult to learn. Just riding round of flat ground learning to do full lock turns and throttle and clutch control will be some help and before to long have some lessons to point you in right direction. I am based "up North" hence can not suggest anything in your area. I have heard Bumpy (near Leeds) is good if you travel as is Inch Perfect.
As you mention this time of year is difficult for starters, its amazing how much easier things are in summer when things are dry and grippy.
Just persevere and I am sure you will crack it and in a few months wonder what the problem was.
Clack clack noise when in higher gears 4 5 6 only when throttle is applied no noise when freewheeling also no difference when clutch is pulled sounds like chsin any ideas
Could be split link on chain getting worn, try a new link.
Would appreciate an update, how are you getting on with the Mont or are you staying 2T. I was thinking of change to 4RT and am interested how you have got on after some time.
Hi, starting trials at 45 should not be a problem with motorbike experience. I suggest doing some training/experience days. Bumpy Ltd are not far from you. This will give you more confidence and confirm that you will enjoy it before buying a bike and gears. Good luck.
I think the current format is as good as it can be in view of very few elite riders. I really enjoyed last few BC rounds I watched. Championship class for those who compete in or aspire to compete in WTC with lower classes to have a decent size entry to justify putting a trial on. As machines & tyres have advanced over the years the difference in sections which the top riders can get up is so different from lower level (but still good riders) that same course is not practical. At best many years ago I was a mid level green course riders and remember in late 70's and early 80's riding same course (only 1 in most trials) as Malcomb Rathmell and Martin Lampkin who were competing for the WTC at the time, I could get up the majority of the sections although anything less than a 3 would be an achievement, this is not possible these days.
My only comment would be I would like to see the ACU doing more to encourage youngsters to enter then stick with the sport to get more up and coming riders to the elite level.
Hi, I've got a 2018 TRS250RR, bought new from dealer, has had loud rattle from new, took it back to dealer who said it was normal, also checked with couple of other owners at a trial and they were similar. Noise goes away when clutch engaged. Some are louder than others. seems to be normal for TRS. I believe GasGas with diaphragm clutches are similar. Not had any problems with mine and had it for over 2 years now. Suggest listen to others if you get a chance. If anyone knows a solution I would like to know but I just live with it. All the best. Melba
Over years I've had various Beta & Sherco and recently TRS with my most recent history being 2015 Beta 250, 2016 Sherco 250 and 2018 TRS 250RR. The TRS was bought new in April 2018 and has not had any issues at all apart from service items and front wheel bearings have been changed. I would say reliability is similar to Beta & Sherco as I did not have any major issues with any of my recent bikes although I am a veteran clubman course rider so my bikes do not get hammered. After being laid up for several weeks the TRS started 2nd kick. I heard early TRS had some issues with petrol tanks and recently I see a thread on CDI units. Overall I would recommend a TRS for reliability. The clutch has a rattle when in neutral which goes away once clutch is pulled in.
My 250RR bought new in March 2018 (nearly 2 years old) has had no problems at all. I ride clubman route and about twice a month so not a hard life. I changed the water pump impellor to an all metal CSP one as I was warned that the original plastic impellor with metal insert can break and not circulate coolant. Also fitted a head spacer to soften power a bit. I think you have been unlucky, suggest you contact the importer as it looks like the CDI should be under warranty.
i try to look at the classifieds section and all i get is two 'featured' bikes ? the correct page flash's up but disappears , does this happen to anyone else ?
andy
I have same but and it seems to be due to screen "not seeing" the full page width. If I slide the bar at the bottom left of screen along I can then see list of advert sections on the right and click on the one I want. e.g. Petrol Trials Bikes. Hope this helps. melba
Thanks for replies, Steve is correct and wire disconnected is hard setting, I can feel a very light difference and am going to leave it disconnected. I have black throttle and this seems a good setting for me.
I decided to remove the map switch from side of the radiator as it was always wet and I am not sure if it is working or not.
On checking the manual and sticker on the bike show different position for the soft (cloud) and hard (sun) settings. The sticker shows depressed for soft which is how I have used the bike. The manual shows depressed with the sun for hard setting.
On checking the switch is closed (current flows) when depressed. To be honest I can not tell difference when using the switch but would like to know if depressed is the soft or hard setting hence if I should connect the wires together for soft setting with the switch removed.
Total guess but several components to pay = basic salary + bonus for position in WTC etc + personal sponsors + appearance money/prizes at indoor trials etc.
Test ride on similar bike if possible to see if different or way it should run although if less power than a techno something is wrong.
Check with previous owner for any changes made?
How good is petrol/oil mix you are using, could it be contaminated/left for long time. I had a bike run badly and flushed out the petrol and it ran fine - although petrol was "new" it must have been a bad batch. Might be worth trying a different batch. Is the octane ok - not sure what gassers need.
Set mixture screw - with reasonable tick over - screw mixture in until revs drop, screw out until revs drop - set between these 2 points. If revs do not drop either way or screw is right in or out could be jet sizes, air leak or other issues.
Check timing as mentioned above - might have been retarded to soften power. This is not a big job but requires a puller and tool to hold flywheel.
Carbs can be difficult especially if worn - any chance of borrowing one off a different bike which runs well and testing with this.
After that it is more difficult things like air leaks or swapping electrical parts from other bikes.
125 Gasser not running right
in Gas Gas
Posted
Hi, couple of things I suggest checking
It the petrol tank breather working ok, this can give running problems after running ok for a period.
Is the fan working or is it getting very hot after period of running.
Sorry can't help with electrical issues.