shercoman2k8

Just knock the snail cams up a notch, not all the way? Or am i missing something?

I would reccomend going for a tuned model, such as the paxau or academy sherco or raga gasser, the gassers rev too the moon but the sherco's are soo torquey, fathers 16 stone and can ride my paxau anywhere! even wheelies from a stand still, with him on it in fourth! Just pop along to a trial or something and try them out....

For your body; Boots Helmet Waterproofs Thicker, padded riding gear Gloves Thick socks Small backpack or bumbag Fluids and lubricants; Transmission fluid Brake fluid, DOT 4 Two stroke oil, good quality fully synthetic oil Spray grease Copper Grease or other antiseize grease Chain lube (can use spray grease) Threadlock, Red and Blue loctites are a must in the workshop... red for things that come apart often, but aren't to come loose, like sprocket nuts.. Blue for things that aren't meant to come apart atall, like disk bolts WD40 THICK Red grease for bearings Tools Air compressor Decent set of screwdrivers Decent set of allen keys, metric, imperial and torx Decent set of spanners Decent set of sockets & ratchets Torque wrench 10lb Ball pein hammer Decent set of pliers, slip joint, chunky standard and needle nose Two large pairs of mole grips, one small pair Vice Wire brush Heat lamp/blow torch Dremel/angle grinder Files Feeler gauges Rubber Mallet Tyre levers Circlip pliers Spares; Spark plug Chain links and split link Rear fender Brake pads Fuel hose Banjo bolt Levers Nuts and allen bolts, keep a few hex heads too... most on the bike will be m6x25... try find a selection, screfix do boxes of 50, of each size for a few quid... Air filter Front inner tube, can be inflated to fit the rear too if needed! Should be it, keep everything required to adjust your snail cams and whip your airbox & carb off in your rucksack on a trial... chuck in all your allen keys and a screwdriver too... most other things can be done with bits of wood or big stones! Oh, and chuck in a tube! Check in here for a good list of stuff to keep in the garage tool and fluid wise, better than my list http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/index....23804&st=15

Nah nah, wham some gasket sealent between the washer and sight, washer and case... should sort it out!

Rings, piston bearing... High pitched rattle's are normally worn rings! Wee test to check if its top end, bottom end or something flying round your clutch/flywheel, take a large handled screwdriver and put the handle against your ear, press the driver against the cylinder, then the crankase through the front of the sump. Then against each side casing, wherever the rattles more prominant, thats where your problem is... Quite a cheap fix for the difference it will make!

Anyone?

Fork oil's easy to do, whilst at it I would do the headstock bearings, just grease them up! See when doing maintenance its easyier, and better in the long run to do groups.. then you will have sorted your problems instead of having bits failing all throughout the year... Which not only p****s you off but seriously cuts down riding time! This is how I do mine Group one; Throttle (grease inside cover, throttle tube off, clean everything up on the bar) check cable. Grips, new grips, I highly reccomend the dual ply domino grips, soft outside, stiff inside and come with ends too! Fork seals & oil. Front brake (free everything up, split the caliper, pop out pistons, clean up and replace any damaged seals, bleed brake) Possibly new pads if required, wipe rotor with brake cleaner. Hydraulics, bleed all hydraulics on the bar, front brake and clutch. Headstock bearings, grease or replace if required. Grease spindle up. Group two; Gearbox oil although done bi-weekly... Fill radiator. Dismantle and clean carb, bowl off, jets out... blow through with compressed air, clean slide.. check throttle cable, adjust if required. Clear fuel line, blow through with compressor. Replace chain and sprokets if required, if not, grease up Check spark plug. Group three; Dismantle suspension linkage and grease up/replace bearings. Rear wheel out, new tyre... check bearings and sproket.. if sproket worn replace chain and both sprokets. Grease up spindle. Check for play in swingarm bearings, replace if required. Service rear brake, same as in group one... bleed and check pedal bearing. Reassemble... Group four; Most of group four's covered above, and is common sense Done quite often... Check spark plug. Check tyres/tyre pressure. Brake pads, if bikes used often. Chain tensioner block. Reccomend using an x-blok Adjust levers. Grease up footpeg spring/bolt area using red or white grease. Check all breathers are clear. Group five, should hardly ever need done ; Top end bearings. Piston rings. Repack exhaust. Replace loose/broken spokes. Drop engine out completely, give bike thorough clean. Hope this makes sense, everything on there should be done too yours as and when time allows, but in those groups.. Apart from those you just have to replace damged/broken/faulty parts... as yours is apart now I'd probably do group two!

Found him in one now, cheers... Any more keep them coming! Also, if anybody can find one of me that would be great... Cant see myself in any albums though, but if you have it on your pc it may be quicker to flick through than my dial up speed broadband Was at the bottom sections on the firt sub at Lagnaha wearing jeans and a blue Clice Sherco Jacket, holding or using a Canon 300D... or if that means nothing to you, using an slr camera! Also, done the whole loop on friday, this time jeans and a big brown barbour jacket.. also holding or using the camera On all occasions possibly standing close to a rather large, dark/grey haired guy in waterproofs... Cheers, Jamie

Just get your one, warm the exhaust up, run a bead of silicon sealer (make sure its the high temp' one) on the exhaust where you want the protector to sit... then shove the protector on, hold it on with zip ties, heat her up and leave her over night to cool... remove the zipties and voila, you have one that wont be coming off anytime soon Or maybe one off another bike? Worth a try

Cheers for the pics so far, still no sign of him though! Small and with the drummers

In that case, maybe he's almost bad as mechanic as me New mains you say, requires taking the cylinder off! Cylinder off means coolant drains off, coolant draining off means empty rad.. theres a big chance that he forgot to top the rad back up... but yeah, thats definately water in your oil! I'd say for now, top your rad up, refill your gearbox (440ml 10w-40, can use atf or bike specific stuff, i've had good results with the PJ1 but your best off getting ATF whilst trying to cure problems as its much cheaper! Once everythings topped up, run it for an hour or so, drain a bit of oil off... check the colour, if its milky theres a BIG leak... if its not, top the oil back up (however much you took out) and ride it for 20 minutes or so to allow it to circulate, then leave the bike sit overnight... Check both the oil and coolant levels again. If oils milky you need to do your water pump seal... if its fine I suspect that when the cylinder was removed some coolant, well, quite a lot of coolant escaped down into the block and found its way into your oil, if thats the case I reckon you should be fine! For parts locally, in Yorkshire you will have no problem, Malcolm Rathmell Sports, known on here and everywhere else as MRS... Give them a buzz in the morning and ask to speak to either Martin or Malcolm! Number: 01423 772885 Anything else just give us a shout, and im sure Copey will be on at some point in the morning, normally about half three to give some more advice... Maybe pick up on something I've missed! Good place for parts online is Splat Shop, not 100% sure where there based but they seem to have everything you need http://www.splatshop.co.uk/sherco/engine/s...t-99-to-00.html http://www.splatshop.co.uk/sherco/engine/s...mp-bearing.html http://www.splatshop.co.uk/sherco/engine/s...-pump-seal.html If your ordering from there, not rathmells you will need to order TWO seals, but yeah, give MRS a try first!

Well, these seals can go anytime, no matter the age of the bike... so say its been doing it five years, thats enough to drain the rad yeah? You did say it was empty, now think of shoving a litre of water into your oil, not good!

Ahh no, thats not right I'd suspect water pump seal if your rad was empty too... not a huge job, just fiddly, I'm sure someone on here can give proper directions on how, I've not needed to do it myself before

Dark grey's or blacks normal, light grey isn't... If it looks quite milky change your water pump seal, if not just change the oil and get on with it

Got it printed out, along with the service manual and parts book, kept neaatly on a shelf in the gargage, mother doesn't like me in the house with oily hands so makes everything a tad quicker, saves scrubbing everytime I wanna check them out Cheers anyway Mark, will keep you all updated on the case.. going for a ride at the weekend, steep climbs.. many steps. Right clutch punisher!

Hey all, Just doing a favor for a mate. Has anybody got any pictures of the pipe band on the sunday, showing as many of the band members as possible? If so could you post them on here or send me links via pm. Cheers!

Its just a breather and fuel overflow pipe, lets excess fuel out the carb to prevent flooding... just shove it along the top of the casing and down to the bottom cup of your shock absorber!

I'd checked and double checked, then turned it ound and realised it wasnt set properly Blue loctite and 'sticks like ****' mixture, nut will not be coming loose anytime soon!

You got me, okay Was reading the wrong side of the torque wrench

Sorted guys, thanks for all the help! the final problem was easily sorted... The nut had come loose, again! Now tightened upto 50lb ft instead of 45, and held on with a load of loctite!

Wound the lever pin adjuster right out, removed the slave from the bike and reset it manually, will try bleeding later... the midges got a bit much last night!

Thats all fine, was told to bleed it? Although the lever feels fine! Level in the master cyl was low, and the bikes been on its side for the past week! Any tips on quick bleeding?

Thats determination, I've got a quick question, what about gear changes and brake control? Secondary lever for the rear on the bar? Sorry to be a bit personal, if you feel its a bit too personal and/or dont want to refresh memories, dont answer... and i'll understand, but what happened? Wishing you and your son the best of luck in the sport and hopeing you have hours of happy riding together! Regards, Jamie

Everythings back together, now I have no drive? almost as if the clutch is pulled to the bar? What now?

Got vee rubbers on my old bike, I always thought they were a sub-brand of michelin! Wasnt interested in getting either tyre, just checking as i'd never ever heard of them before!