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ikb

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Posts posted by ikb
 
 
  1. Hi,

    The triple clamps are standard lowers with a home made top.
    The forks are GSX 125, they were brand new old stock genuine Suzuki I may have the part number somewhere. However they look better than they perform! Really they are too long but the sliders are too short giving only 4” of travel, the springs are too hard so I have some borrowed TY175 springs in at present and I have extended the damper tube to increase travel. I plan to extend the sliders and fit a decent mudguard bracket on.

    Wheels are 18 and 21.

    The photos are before the steering angle change.

    Where the rear frame is cut it is only the single skin bit so no reinforcing needed, I have added more welds though.

    Ian

     

  2. 10 hours ago, Edd said:

    Thanks guys.

    Turbofurball, ok I got you now. Now my second name is much more fun.

    Teamferret,  thanks, I have been looking at the B120's and as you say lots of parts. I really do want to do a dual ratio TC120 engine. Or KT120 (almost the same). My early TC has a KT and the later one has a TC stamping with bigger airbox and slightly different porting and coils.

    Ikb, Now that is great. Just what I am very interested in. Very impressive. Thanks for posting the photos and giving those details of what you have done.  I have my eye on a bearcat kt120 frame but it is a bit expensive. I will try and negotiate. Also found a second swinging arm. My word, that crank was bad. My first TC was solid. Had to drill out the piston crown and carefully chisel out the rest. Manage to do it and save the barrel.

    Do you mind me picking your brain a bit more.

    Ask away

     

     

     

  3. I bought a 1968? Bear Cat, this has the high low box and the steel pressed frame so a good start for a Gaunt replica, it’s about 80% done now just need a suitable tank the the frame can be finished and powder coated ready for the final build.

    work done,
    Engine rebuild with fresh crank form a uk bike, I used a +1.5mm piston taking it out to about 125.
    New GSX 125 forks with home made top yoke.
    Steering angle reduced by 4 degrees 
    A100 front hub Honda Cub back hub laced onto alloy rims
    Swing arm extended by 40mm.
    Plus much more!

     

    3952A1F3-D245-4D41-97FD-CC3F36A87FCC.jpeg

    25F9FD3B-C11D-4BE8-8F27-F122545524CA.jpeg

    2FD1F4F7-DAEC-4DB5-8C55-B465CC9E29EB.jpeg

  4. If you can find the aluminium tank that goes under the shelter on the earlier models it can be made to fit into your fibreglass tank.

    Just cut out the bottom with a hacksaw blade then the aluminium tank will drop in with a little reshaping and glue it in with builders foam or silicone. Then you end up with a nice sturdy unit that’s full petrol proof.

    B2D25740-D702-48D6-9433-8B7186E052CE.jpeg

  5. Hi,
    I have just acquired a 1968 Bearcat which is the ideal starting point to build  a Gaunt replica! Being the latest model of the Bearcat it has the B100 frame with the TC120 dual range motor it’s perfect for the job! But I have a number of questions...

    Forks,
    These should be from the Invader 200 are they still 30mm? And looking at photos they must be a bit longer if so how much? If I can’t find any Invader forks I’ll find something suitable that looks right 
    While we are at the front did Peter alter the head angle?

    Hubs
    These look to be smaller than the B100 or Bearcat hubs, possibly  A100 or A50? 
    Swinging Arm
    I know it’s about an inch longer but does anyone know how much exactly? And what length shocks would be best?

    Engine,
    So far I’ll just be fitting the T20/ GT 250 piston as it needs a bit of a rebuild anyway 

    Any information is welcome 

    Thanks Ian

  6. See attached picture showing all of the ratios, the swapped second gear can be used in sections ok depending on your sprocket sizes and rider weight . The best thing about the low second gear kit is the higher top gear!

    Hope the spread sheet makes sense 

    AE63C50E-CCD2-4078-95DB-719980A03C8D.png

  7. Don't use PJ1.... I used it on my Cota 200 3 years ago and it was great so I used it this year on my 242 but I think the formula has changed as it is not petrol resistant any more! A small splash of petrol just dissolved it, I thought this WA because it had not cured as the engine had not run much but after two days of running it looked a mess so I had to repaint. I was able to wash off the paint with petrol as if it was a kids water colour! I have now used VHT case paint it's better to apply and is petrol proof but not rock proof!

  8. Hi,

    My 242 is nearly finished and I was wondering what the best gearing is?

    It's the early version with the low primary gearing so when new would have 10 front and 38 back sprockets, when I got it it was 9 - 38 but I only rode it for a few minutes.

    I would rather not have a 9 on the front so maybe 10-40 or 42?

    Anyone out there with recommendations.

    Ian

  9. I use 10 - 42 and it works well I can use 1st and 2nd in most sections and hardly use the clutch. It's also quite a bit lower geared than modern bikes so it may just seem slower to me

  10. Just be glad you do not have a 250 with dellorto and the rubber reducer ring.

    Ant idea which way the rubber reducing ring should go? I guess the alignment mark at the top facing away from the carb!

  11. sorry to put you right ian but they did come with tensioners maybe the very first ones never , it was mounted to one of the engine casing bolts under front sprocket , but if the chain came off it would tend to bend the bolt cracking the casing so folk would remove them , i have mounted them on the lower engine mount bracket but if you were to go over a tree trunk and bottom it out it could bend it , i think the ty idea would be best mounted to swing arm

    I think those tensioners were after market ones as I had 2 new 200's in the olden days...... We can talk about it in the rain tomorrow
 
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