The 241 is a very simple engine and has no oil filter. The sight glass does not normally cause problems. Very occasionally the casings do crack but this is unlikely. I notice that someone has fitted replacement bolts to hold the side casing on and this reminded me of when I did this myself and used bolts that were just a fraction too long resulting in the bolts bottoming out in their holes and although everything seemed tight, The casing was not quite being pulled against the other facing resulting in a very difficult to locate slow leak. I'd check that if I were you
Original is definitely screwed into the frame however, it sounds as if the one you have is non standard. I would suggest the following way forward...
Weld the right hand side nut to the shaft. The heat from welding may well be enough to loosen it off but if not you will need to heat the frame where the it screws into the left hand side (assuming that your non standard one does screw in.
The Cub is always a compromise simply because of where the final drive sprocket is positioned in the engine. The best compromise in my opinion is to widen the swinging arm in order to move the tire away from the chain. Offsetting the engine slightly also improves this and to some extent these two modifications cancel out the bad effects of the other.
I'm thinking of buying some hubs for my Bantam. I know Alan Whitton does some but others are also available. I'd love to hear peoples comments and suggestions as to the pro's and con's of each. For example, I understand the Whitton hubs require over size brake shoes. Prices would be good too.
Have you considered fitting a 225cc conversion kit to the Gasgas ? I love mine. Beautiful soft power and more than enough for a clubman. Even one of my build !
The disc setup is a bit strange on this model (master cylinder behind number plate and cable operated) so fit one from a later model like the 303 instead. See Richard Allen for the parts. You will need...
The rear engine mount is different. On the 240 it is solid all the way across. On the 241, the middle section is missing. The part that is bolted on is a 1 piece on the 240 and 2 piece on the 241
Would someone who has fitted a Sammy Miller silent block conversion to a Tiger Cub please explain to me how it works. It seems to consist of 2 silent block bushes that locate into the swinging arm and a spacer for the frame but what prevents side to side movement? Is the spacer an interference fit into the frame ?
Use the 300 frame and swinging arm that you have. Before you put anything together strip the swinging arm bearings are grease/replace. You will need to buy some rear shocks. I recommend BETOR or better. Use the complete front end from the 301 including the headstock bearings. You may need to make up a spacer as the 301 headstock is slightly longer than the 300 and may not tighten up. Use your 301 rear wheel but you will need to get a 300 rear brake plate to make it fit. I think spindle is same. Use your 301 engine & carb. Should be a straight fit. Not sure if the sump plate will fit or not but probably can be made to fit. You will need for a 300 - an exhaust, airbox, tank, seat, rear mud guard, brake pedal & rod. See Richard Allen for parts. Helpful but expensive.
exhaust £100
airbox £100
tank £50
seat £100
rear mud guard £30
brake pedal & rod £40
You should then have an arguably reasonably twinshock that is capably of winning trials. There are MANY tweaks that you can still do but that should get you started.
Very few of the mono parts will fit the twinshock frames.
Engine will easily fit the 300 frame but major modifications will be needed to the 240 frame.
Front end will fit either bikes with only spacers needed. Rear brake plate is different. Tank/seat will not fit. Neither will exhaust, airbox or swinging arm without modification.
If you work at it, you will end up with something special or a pile of junk
FIGURE 8...IS THIS RIGHT?
in Trials Training And Technique
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Leave the front brake alone and use the rear brake