HI, this is an old thread but... just bought a scorpa myself... fan runs form a battery, won't rum with a jumper across the blue and white wires that go to the thermostat, my other scorpa runs fine like this has anyone got a writing diagram? Spent hours with a multimeter and I'm baffled to say the least.
I got my tubeless rear rim anodised and laced onto the hub at Sids Wheels, he did a brilliant job, he's of FB or comes up if you google him. I used a Morad rim, new.
I parked both 4rt and tlr against the garage wall with wheels on and then measured the 4rt and set the tlr to the same - spindle to wall, top of forks to the wall.
Cut bottom tubes and bottom of top tube and pulled in.
I think I lost about an inch on wheel base so added to end of swingarm. Left shock mounts as they were so I guess increased wheel travel slightly as well.
Steering went from moving a tiller to a modern feel and put less strain on my arms and shoulders.
That's a good idea, I could compare the Scorpa & TLR.
Hi, I removed the steering lockstop plate at the bottom of the steering head as it was all bent up allowing the forks to hit the tank. I then cut right through the top tube about an inch back from the steering head and then warmed the tube that runs down to the front of the motor. This let me move the front wheel back untill it 'looked right', and it had opened up the cut in the top tube to about 6mm.Welded some steel into the gap, refitted a strengthened lock stop plate and job done.Recon it steepened things up by about 2 degrees,steers great around the garden....will be trials riding tommorow.
Resurrecting an old post.
I'm now the owner of a TLR200 and am looking to modify the steering head angle, Have you still got the photos of the modifications you made?
Hi, I removed the steering lockstependplate at the bottom of the steering head as it was all bent up allowing the forks to hit the tank. I then cut right through the top tube about an inch back from the steering head and then warmed the tube that runs down to the front of the motor. This let me move the front wheel back until it 'looked right', and it had opened up the cut in the top tube to about 6mm.Welded some steel into the gap, refitted a strengthened lock stop plate and job done.Recon it steepened things up by about 2 degrees,steers great around the garden....will be trials riding tomorrow.
and this
Ok, here's a few pictures of my effort.Steering tweeted footrests moved, and some new shocks, bars and levers and some new cables, are the latest additions, plus frame repaint....only brushed so not blemish free, but much better than it was. Just got to do tank and seat paint when I get time. Hoping to get to the trial tomorrow to see how she rides
but sadly none of the pictures work.
It's from this post on page 4.
How did the TLR ride bashplate with the modifications? Do you still have the pictures of what you did and would you mind reposting them?
Does the tube you don't cut bend OK? I was wondering it cutting and opening the gap on the top tube would pull the down tube out of alignment and prevent the engine going back in! Would you need to heat the tube that doesn't get cut? have you any in progress pics of what you did jimmyl?
Thanks for the replies. Good to know about the parallel yokes and clutch, I've heard that opening a 6mm gap in the top tube by cutting near the head stock and pulling the forks in is the way to go but don't want to ruin the frame. My welding is good.
Thanks for the advice everyone, I was hoping it would be something simple. I'll continue my rebuild, to test the repositioned foot pegs and then when I strip it back down for frame painting I'll have a look at the kick start problem.
Occasionally the kick start doesn't return when kicking he engine over, other times it jams, any ideas or do I need to have the clutch cover off? Will I need to have the engine out of the frame?
Sy250 Wiring Help Needed
in Scorpa
Posted
Sorted - intermittent break in the voltage supply wire. Couldn't see the wood for the trees last night.