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Posts posted by waynerobshaw

  1. 1 hour ago, bilks said:

    Get to the next Evening trial next Wednesday at 6.30 Westwood at least you will get a ride, and .If you are who i think you are.Or nip up to Bumpy at Kirkstall  Leeds £15 none members for a practice open every day.

    Should that be Dovecliffe not Westwood?  Also, do you know what time the evening trials kick off?  6:30pm?

  2. You can download an parts manual from the GasGas website:


    but no owners manual I'm afraid.

    The brake discs (rotors) are floating so there should be some movement.  I think the older bikes tend to have more float.  There are washers that hold the disc on but allow float, as long as these aren't bent, the float should all be normal.



  3. Assuming its running a Delorto carb, there should be a rubber ring adapter on the carb-to-airbox side:


    Is that present?  The carb is close to the engine casing but it shouldn't touch.

    Also, when refitting the carb and air box, i uses the following procedure:

    1. Slacken the engine/carb jubilee clip.
    2. Offer up the airbox to the carb and if need be, pull the carb out of the engine side to aid entry to the airbox (if necessary, warm up the airbox rubber with a heat gun to soften it)
    3. Once the carb is inserted properly into the airbox, push the airbox and carb back into the engine.
    4. Locate the 4 bolts holding on the seat/airbox.
    5. Re-align carb if the angle has moved.
    6. Tighten both jubilee clips
    7. Tighten the 4 airbox screws.



  4. Done also!

    I'd have to insure my ride on mower to cut my own grass...let alone, insure my bike to ride it in my own woodland!  Glad I've just sold my lads off road buggy otherwise that would be another policy!  Insurance companies rape us enough without another imposed set of policies to buy!  

    Blame all the "no win, no fee" scams etc for all this utter nonsense!  If you've ever claimed for anything under such circumstances, hang your head in shame!

    • Like 1

  5. While it's getting darker out there and the Trials season winds down, I'm sitting in the Garage and wonder if I'm the only victim of more and more LEDs failing in the headlamp? I ride a 2012 250 Pro. Unfortunately it seems the insert (circuit board) is not available as a spare part, but can only be replaced by a complete new headlamp :o . Thinking abut good old times (when I could replace a light bulb for next to nothing) won't help.


    Has onyone found a solution to keep the lamp? I'm thinking about trying to figure out which LED type to solder onto the existing circuit board etc...


    Keep your feet on the pegs


    - Martina


    My headlights gone much the same way (only 2 LED lit).  Did you manage a repair or a replacement?

  6. I'm referred to the engine kicking the starter back and not back firing...I must admit I'm more gentle on kicking the Sherco over my Gassers, the kickstart seem so small and brittle...I'll give it my full weight from now on ;-)


    Not wanting to start a war but I've never had a GasGas kick back ever...over 20 different bikes and years!

  7. Hi All,


    I've had 5 sherco's (mainly 2005's and 2006's)  over the last few years, and nearly everyone kicked back.  I've tried retarding the timing, but it doesn't really improve.


    The only thing that fixed one bike was a new Stator.  Only problem is, the bike I have now has had a stator recently but even retarding the ignition, it still kicksback.


    Is it just a quirk of Shercos or am I missing something.  I would appear from reading posts on here that its really hit and miss, some bikes kickback, some bikes dont..


    Any other pointers, let me know...





  8. Many thank for testing that....damn....I've now totally removed all the controller, the associated wiring and the motor and boxed it up to send to OSET.  I'll still send it all to them I think as they offered to test it all.


    Wish I'd known that before stripping the wiring back...hope I can get it all back together!  :icon_salut:


    I'll keep you posted with what happens...I've learnt something anyway, no motor, no relay!  There very little technical info online, so hopefully this will all be useful to someone else in the future.


    Thanks again for taking the time to test that and all the other help you've given!

  9. No power to the red/black wires of the speed pot, I can't easily check the throttle as the go into a 3 pin twist connector and I don't know which is red/black.


    When I powered the relay direct, the wheel wouldn't spin and the LED's on the throttle stay static (no visible drop in power).


    Controller looks buggered I suppose  :wall:


    I'll have word with OSET today and see what they say...

  10. Hi All,


    Hoping for a little wisdom.


    My lads 20" stopped running the other day after riding with the rear brake dragging a little.  Anyway, the current situation is, the keyswitch powers on the throttle LED's showing full power but the relay doesn't click.  I've checked the switch feed to the relay and I don't see any voltage.  The switch feed seems to originate from the controller, so my only thought is that the controller is goosed.  I've also tried another set of batteries just in case they are on low charge.


    Any other thoughts?




  11. I've had this with a old 300 raga and my current 300 racing...I've been through numerous things, rejetting the carb, fuel, raising carb plunger, alsorts


    ... the cure? 


    Decoke the head and piston!  Enjoy riding without "donk" until it carbs up again!


    Im still not sure why but it seems to affect the 300 more than the other engine sizes...

  12. Hi All,

    I've been to see a 2006 250 this evening. It looked just the ticket, started well and ticked over just has you'd expect. Took it for a quick blast, but once i'd come back (2 mins), the engine was making a knocking noise just as it returns to idle. At high revs it sounds fine, just when it returns to idle does the knocking appear.

    Now, I'm thinking main bearing, what does anyone else think?

    So, the basics are, sound fine when cold, knocky when warm and dropping back to idle.

    Any wisdom guys?



  13. Cheers all for the replies.

    I stripped the motor down to find a massive amount of corrosion (shocking to see thr complete lack ofany kind of moisture protection on the motor). I cleaned off all the rust, eased the brushes (new ones needed really), put it all back togther and it roared into life! The bearings seem fine but the brushes will need replacing soon. Anyway, its saved

  14. Hi All,

    Just wondering if anyone can suggest ways to ease the kicking up of a 2009 290? My brother has a bad hip which is aggravated by kicking up the bike. The engine and compression is very tight and the short kick start doesn't help. He's thinking of selling up so I'm trying to find a way to keep him in the trials world!

    My obvious thoughts are head spacers to lower the compression, so what's the recommended methods to lower the compression on the 290?

    Also, anyone tried a different (longer) kick-start lever, maybe from a gasser?

    All suggestions welcome - don't want my Brother to walk away from trials after all these years!



  15. Hi Chaps,

    Before I read your posting, I had the motor off and the bike in bits only to find the motor spun fine when wired straight to the batteries (the motor connector took some removing - the connectors were properly seized!)

    So, I shorted out the potentiometer (now I see I should left it open circuit), still no better. Dismantled the throttle and sprayed it with WD40...wahlah....its working!

    So, you we're both spot on, it would appear that the throttle was the problem!

    Your postings provide a few good diagnostic pointers too, so many thanks to all!



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