Jump to content

Sign in to follow this  
jezzaxt

Techno Clutch Sticking

Recommended Posts

New to the forum and have had some good advise so far, so thanks to everyone. My latest problem is that the clutch seems to take ages to warm up. I've changed the oil which has helped slightly but it still needs a good 5 - 10 minutes to free up. Its got to the stage where I always have to kick it into gear with the front wheel against the garage wall for fear of lurching off down the road. I did it once and ended up in a heap at the bottom of the garden having smashed through the gate. You only do it once. Anyway if this is normal then i'll live with it. However if anyone has any suggestions i'd be very grateful.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Hi there jezzaxt,

I have a 1999 Techno 250 and the clutch takes an age to warm up. Just recently bought the bike so I'll be interested to see other peoples thoughts on your post, as I wouldn't mind knowing myself.

All the best..... :wacko:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
New to the forum and have had some good advise so far, so thanks to everyone. My latest problem is that the clutch seems to take ages to warm up. I've changed the oil which has helped slightly but it still needs a good 5 - 10 minutes to free up. Its got to the stage where I always have to kick it into gear with the front wheel against the garage wall for fear of lurching off down the road. I did it once and ended up in a heap at the bottom of the garden having smashed through the gate. You only do it once. Anyway if this is normal then i'll live with it. However if anyone has any suggestions i'd be very grateful.

I had this problem when i had a techno. I put some new clutch plates in and straight away the problem was solved. They aren't cheap though. Others will tell you to tie wrap your clutch leaver to the bar whilst your bike warms up.

See this post Clicky

Edited by OlWhittyOne

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
 

My 97 Techno had this problem and got so bad that the clutch wouldn't clear even when hot and would delay clearing when clutching in a section. Changing the oil for this brand and that brand will waste your money. Believe me, I tried everything, different oils, clutch basket burrs, plates warped, tying the lever in etc. No, the problem is likely to be worn friction plates. New ones (from BVM) cured mine instantly and incidently it runs with ATF Dexron2 fluid which is available from Motor Factors (like Partco) for about

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Another trick is to stick it into gear pull the clutch in and rock the bike until you feel the clutch free off, stick it back in Neutral kick it over and you should be fine, however, the Dextron/ATF route will be a better solution :wacko:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

My old mans 270 Techno used to do this alot and in the end after many unwanted wheelies down the road i found that holding in the clutch and revving it up for a few minutes on and off, thusly 90% of the time it would be perfect. :wacko:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Ok. Thanks everyone. Nice to know i'm not alone. If I end up having to replace the clutch plates does anyone know how tricky it is to do? Is anyone able to provide a walk through on how it's done?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

As with my first reply, to sort the problem properly, get some new friction plates. They are very easy to fit, lay the bike on it's side, remove the cover, remove clutch bolts/springs then the plates. Re-assemble in reverse order. It is advisable to buy a new cover sealing ring as the old one will be prone to expand and will be awkward to refit.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

My '97 doen it too. When I bought it, I was told "They all do that" ... which I believe to be true.

My method ....warm up the bike in N for a minute or two ... get on the bike , pull in the clutch and push along on a flat surface like a skateboard, then click it into 1st while keeping the clutch pulled in. Ride circles and rev the engine and it works normal after about a minute.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

I have a 1999 200 and the clutch would not work at all till I removed all the plates and shuffled them - i.e. cleaned them off and put them back in a different order. It has worked fine since - all of 2 hours. I have to say, the fibre plates did look a bit thin so may need changing in the end - somebody said they're expensive, so I'll suffle them one more time if it ever fails again. Taking them out is not difficult but beware of shims on the thrust bearing getting dislodged - they are easy to miss. If you want more advice get in touch via PM - I've almost mastered it now! :wacko:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Okay, just add a little more into the mix,

I took both my 97 Technos (250 & 125) to JLI for a once over.

Chris said to start the bike up in neutral and leave to warm for minute or so.

Then, holding clutch in, knock it into 1st and ride it.

Keeping the clutch in, knock it up the gears one at at time to top and back down.

I find that before I get back to !st the plates have freed off and I can stop.

I usually find very little sticking after that.

I'd be interested to learn how much a new set of friction plates are.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
 

:

Another trick is to stick it into gear pull the clutch in and rock the bike until you feel the clutch free off, stick it back in Neutral kick it over and you should be fine, however, the Dextron/ATF route will be a better solution :unsure:

This is what I was advised to do with my rev 3. I now use this method everytime I ride and have not had any trouble since :beer:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
:

Another trick is to stick it into gear pull the clutch in and rock the bike until you feel the clutch free off, stick it back in Neutral kick it over and you should be fine, however, the Dextron/ATF route will be a better solution :unsure:

This is what I was advised to do with my rev 3. I now use this method everytime I ride and have not had any trouble since :beer:

So its about

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...