malcra Posted February 25, 2007 Report Share Posted February 25, 2007 over the last couple of months I've been getting through condensers rather too quickly, initially on my 320TL and now on the Jumbo. So done some investigative work and written it on my (mainly SWM) blogging website. SWM electrics I've basically not found the problem, but tried to eliminate the likely suspects, we shall see.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
totalshell Posted February 25, 2007 Report Share Posted February 25, 2007 whoa how do i make that tiny tiny writing legible.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scrumpyjack Posted February 26, 2007 Report Share Posted February 26, 2007 Try mounting a condensor under your tank where it wont get hot, it doesnt have to be behind the flywheel.. and if you have a spare one piggybacked to it if it blows you simply swap the wire over and presto... i am giving away all my little secrets i hope this helps,, but personally i would splash out on elec ignition Scrumpy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
malcra Posted February 26, 2007 Author Report Share Posted February 26, 2007 whoa how do i make that tiny tiny writing legible.. the website uses style sheets and its probably that your browser (IE?) may have mangled the text...first reports of problems re wiring to place the condenser somewhere handy is a good idea and probably cheaper than electronic ignition. Anyone with electronic ignition on their SWM, let me know as interested in wiring and the costs involved Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jumbostu Posted February 26, 2007 Report Share Posted February 26, 2007 Beat me to it Scrump !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
qcowboy Posted December 30, 2008 Report Share Posted December 30, 2008 I'm curious whether anyone has a basic wiring diagram for a TL320. Mine is not running now, as it has no spark. I've pulled off the electrical tape that was wadded up along the top rail of the frame, and found four wires, two green and two yellow, that are not connected to anything, though it appears that the two green wires may have been connected to each other before I removed the insulating tape. There is also a blue wire, connected to the coil. I'm guessing that the yellow wires are for the lighting system (and so they are unused on this bike, as it has no lights.) What are the green wires, and where should they connect? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b40rt Posted December 30, 2008 Report Share Posted December 30, 2008 I'm curious whether anyone has a basic wiring diagram for a TL320. Mine is not running now, as it has no spark. I've pulled off the electrical tape that was wadded up along the top rail of the frame, and found four wires, two green and two yellow, that are not connected to anything, though it appears that the two green wires may have been connected to each other before I removed the insulating tape. There is also a blue wire, connected to the coil. I'm guessing that the yellow wires are for the lighting system (and so they are unused on this bike, as it has no lights.) What are the green wires, and where should they connect? When rotax motors arn't used for a while the points can stick, quick spray will usually fix. If the cam on the flywheel has surface rust this will wear the heel of the points very quickly, worth a check. I have had no real problems with points or condensors over the years, and wouldnt go to the time or expense of electronic ignition. I'm pretty sure I got my last points from a chain saw supplier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pedronicman Posted December 30, 2008 Report Share Posted December 30, 2008 I had similar problems with my TL 320 , after eating many , many plugs i changed the condensor and points. This did not solve the problem as kept on fouling plugs and misfiring every trial.Then altered the timing which helped a bit , but it did not 'feel' right when riding. I played around with carb setiings as well but eventually changed everything- new HT coil , L/T coil , wiring , plug lead , cap , plug, stator backplate , engine case stator/backplate now it has been ok but all the time i have ridden it before i think the timing was out . Have since fitted a new dellorto carb also. Now i have got it running spot on as i have played with the jetting extensively and it now runs a milliion times better than ever before. Your problem could be that after changing the points and condensor the timing could be out also as this is critical on these engines- i would try this first Wiring diagram attatched. timing is between 2.6 - 2.8 (Before top dead centre) for the 320 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b40rt Posted December 30, 2008 Report Share Posted December 30, 2008 As above, set points, them timing. Check with a strobe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HPierre Posted June 13, 2020 Report Share Posted June 13, 2020 On 2/25/2007 at 11:43 PM, malcra said: over the last couple of months I've been getting through condensers rather too quickly, initially on my 320TL and now on the Jumbo. So done some investigative work and written it on my (mainly SWM) blogging website. SWM electrics I've basically not found the problem, but tried to eliminate the likely suspects, we shall see.... Where is now this (mainly SWM) blogging website? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b40rt Posted June 13, 2020 Report Share Posted June 13, 2020 1 hour ago, HPierre said: Where is now this (mainly SWM) blogging website? These posts are 12 years old so the site may not exist anymore. There is a lot of information in the swm section on here, anything specific your looking for ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pschrauber Posted June 13, 2020 Report Share Posted June 13, 2020 A very good page about SWM is the Belgian Tobec (Montebecane) site from Michael Debucquoy : http://www.motobecane-trialclub.be/index.php?option=com_content&view=category&id=25&Itemid=125 Very well sortet and tons of information. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baldilocks Posted June 16, 2020 Report Share Posted June 16, 2020 On 12/30/2008 at 11:30 AM, b40rt said: When rotax motors arn't used for a while the points can stick, quick spray will usually fix. If the cam on the flywheel has surface rust this will wear the heel of the points very quickly, worth a check. I have had no real problems with points or condensors over the years, and wouldnt go to the time or expense of electronic ignition. I'm pretty sure I got my last points from a chain saw supplier. ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b40rt Posted June 16, 2020 Report Share Posted June 16, 2020 1 hour ago, baldilocks said: ? 12 years ago the Bosch system was still working as intended (generally) quite a few seemed to have deteriorated over the last few years. What's on yours Glen ? 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HPierre Posted June 16, 2020 Report Share Posted June 16, 2020 On 6/14/2020 at 12:54 AM, pschrauber said: A very good page about SWM is the Belgian Tobec (Montebecane) site from Michael Debucquoy : http://www.motobecane-trialclub.be/index.php?option=com_content&view=category&id=25&Itemid=125 Very well sortet and tons of information. Yes, I know this site. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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