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Suspension


veteranhawk
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hi there new to trials and was wondering if ne1 could shed some light on how to set up my susension cheers

I think its down to personal preference, I got my Rev3 a year ago and haven't even touched the suspension. I would doubt if a beginner would notice any difference, however someone may correct me!!

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I'm an absolute beginner. I've set up my suspension (both front and rear) with more spring prelod, and almost zero dampening. I'm a bit heavier that's why I need more spring preload and I set the dampening almost zero, because in this case the motorcycle jumps better. But this setup has drawbacks when it comes to steering and in many other cases, too.

I repeat, I'm an absolute beginner.

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hi there new to trials and was wondering if ne1 could shed some light on how to set up my susension cheers

I think its down to personal preference, I got my Rev3 a year ago and haven't even touched the suspension. I would doubt if a beginner would notice any difference, however someone may correct me!!

cheers mate which fork is the damper

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I'm an absolute beginner. I've set up my suspension (both front and rear) with more spring prelod, and almost zero dampening. I'm a bit heavier that's why I need more spring preload and I set the dampening almost zero, because in this case the motorcycle jumps better. But this setup has drawbacks when it comes to steering and in many other cases, too.

I repeat, I'm an absolute beginner.

cheers mate which fork is the damper mate left or right

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Suspension is something many of us wonder a lot. I have spend a lot of time trying to realise how the bikes handling really change when adjusting it and havent really seen a lot of difference as I do not not have that much experience. On the other hand, as I`m slowly now learning how to pump and adjust my line by moving front or rear tyre with clutch+brakes I have noticed that for example adjusting rear shock anti-clockwise I`m getting more response for the movement I`m trying to achieve by lifting the rear wheel and turning it to side.

Those who are more experienced on the other hand have recommended that beginners like me should not have "active" suspension as it tends to loosen the tyres from the surface and cause grip problems. As with the cars, wet track means flexible suspension and dry more agressive one. Its always naturally a compromise which is based on your skills, driving style and personal needs.

Beta`s manual is suggesting "neutral" setting which means right side should be 15 clicks from full anti-clockwise up. Spring tension is suggested to be 10+ round when your weight is more than 80 kg. If you are a beginner like me, I would suggest a more loose preload like 5-7 turns (left side) and maybe 15-20 clicks on the right hand side. With this setup I believe you should have enough softness when you hit objects and not too much rebound which will unbalance the bike and loose grip. And when you develop your skills and need more "trick" setup, just turn the right hand side down 5-7 clicks and put more preload.

But, what ever you do, please keep in mind that most important thing is to make sure that front and rear suspension work together. You can test this by pushing down your bike from the peg very hard with your foot and see if it goes down and up at the same time on both ends.

Maybe someone with more years can help you more as this is just my own experience and logic !!

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Suspension is something many of us wonder a lot. I have spend a lot of time trying to realise how the bikes handling really change when adjusting it and havent really seen a lot of difference as I do not not have that much experience. On the other hand, as I`m slowly now learning how to pump and adjust my line by moving front or rear tyre with clutch+brakes I have noticed that for example adjusting rear shock anti-clockwise I`m getting more response for the movement I`m trying to achieve by lifting the rear wheel and turning it to side.

Those who are more experienced on the other hand have recommended that beginners like me should not have "active" suspension as it tends to loosen the tyres from the surface and cause grip problems. As with the cars, wet track means flexible suspension and dry more agressive one. Its always naturally a compromise which is based on your skills, driving style and personal needs.

Beta`s manual is suggesting "neutral" setting which means right side should be 15 clicks from full anti-clockwise up. Spring tension is suggested to be 10+ round when your weight is more than 80 kg. If you are a beginner like me, I would suggest a more loose preload like 5-7 turns (left side) and maybe 15-20 clicks on the right hand side. With this setup I believe you should have enough softness when you hit objects and not too much rebound which will unbalance the bike and loose grip. And when you develop your skills and need more "trick" setup, just turn the right hand side down 5-7 clicks and put more preload.

But, what ever you do, please keep in mind that most important thing is to make sure that front and rear suspension work together. You can test this by pushing down your bike from the peg very hard with your foot and see if it goes down and up at the same time on both ends.

Maybe someone with more years can help you more as this is just my own experience and logic !!

cheers mate that is a great help i will try the settings you have suggested and will post back.

many thanks

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I was driving today with new suspension settings. I had to try very active one and adjusted only rear end 2 turns anti clockwise. I do admit that it might just be in between my ears, but as I`m training a lot to be able to move rear end by lifting it up and flipping aside, it seemed to me that this really helped by bouncing the tyre quicker up without using so much energy. I also noticed that rear is now reacting sooner than front, so maybe I should change the front as well.... testing testing testing..... this is the only way for me at least :icon_salut:

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