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How To Bleed The Clutch


angusgill
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what is the correct way to bleed my clutch on my gas gas? what oil and and tip or tricks used?

Generally, the clutch should be fairly easy to bleed (unlike rear brake systems, yipes!). The color of the top of the clutch reservoir and the writing on it will tell you what to use (unless a previous owner switched to DOT-5-Silicone, for instance)-black will be DOT3 or 4 and green will be mineral oil (not the drug store kind but a fluid just made for clutches).

If you have the servo cylinder off, you'll want to fill it with fluid before installing it on the sidecover post (known as "bench bleeding") as a bubble usually gets trapped there due to the "step" where the post ends and a pocket exists. Then using a fluid filled syringe to pressure bleed from the bleed fitting on the sidecover upwards gets most of the air out.

If the lever still feels a little "spongy" there are generally three places where bubbles hide:

(1) the servo cylinder pocket mentioned above and laying the bike on the left side and working the lever will usually push the bubble up into the post bore and then into the second hiding place.

(2) The bleed fitting, where using lever pressure and cracking the 7mm bleed bolt will usually get that out or up in the system to #3.

(3)The loop in the line after it leaves the master cylinder. Turn the bars so the M/C is at a high spot and lightly work the lever to force the bubble to rise up into the reservoir.

Jon

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The "Green" fluid is LHM Fluid. Used by Citroen in their Hydro Pneumatic suspension. It's in Pro model's from 2004-ish. NYL tops up the top resivoir and pumps the lever. You get bubbles in the fluid and when the air is out of the system it "spurts" back. At that point it's time to top up and close up.

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