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jonny beta

Wheel Bearings

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BIG hammer, long old (knackered) screwdriver and a heat gun. Hit it like crazy fron the other side and it may break up without heat. Warm the hub for a good 15 mins and it will fall out

lee

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have just tried that but there no lip or anything to get the screwdriver onto to be able to smack it out. heated it up to but wasnt any movement to be honest.

The spacer between the bearings is smaller than the hub diameter and will move to one side. It will be tight because it is held between the two bearing inner races. First this need easing to one side to give you a lip on the bearing inner race.

Once you do get it out, grind a v on the spacer ID to help in the future

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Resurecting this thread as im about to change my rear wheel bearings.

Ive done the fronts and although there was some swearing, it all went ok (the main swearing was done after i had refitted the front wheel cleaned everything off then walked in the house to see the spacer sat on the floor in front of me. so had to strip it again! Doh!)

now ive got the rear off and the bearings are in a right mess, obviously havnt been changed in a long long time.

There is a spacer on the outside of each bearing, this will not seem to budge at all. tried heat, tried leverage but they wont move.

I also cant see how i can hit the bearings out from the other side as there is no surface to hit, its just a straight through tube.

its an 03 txt by the way. I had to use a blow torch to do the fronts as they had obviously been in a long time too.

Would appreciate and advice or magic 'make it easy' hints!

Andy.

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Hi, another way is to use a kettle full of boiling water on the alloy hub, no heat guns or blow torches needed then fit a large Rawl bolt to the inside diameter of the bearing and when it has expanded flog it out with a hammer, quick and easy with no damage hope this helps

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Hello Andrew from Stockton (on Tees),

I used to live up near that way, I use a similar boiling water method -I think it's already posted previously somewhere on the GG forum, I like the rawl bolt idea, like a bearing puller.

Anyway, for Andy, there is an aluminium sleeve in between the 2 rear wheel bearings, which has a lip that extends into the bearing ID for about 3mm. If you have access to a lathe, turn a scrap piece of 25mm dia steel bar down to a precise OD to fit into the sleeve with a square shoulder. After heating the aluminium hub with boiling water around the bearing housing, use the drift to tap out the bearing.

The steel spacers usually prise out, if stuck then try a bearing puller or the rawl bolt (Sleeve anchor here) to remove.

Ta ta, PeterB.

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Hello Andrew from Stockton (on Tees),

I used to live up near that way, I use a similar boiling water method -I think it's already posted previously somewhere on the GG forum, I like the rawl bolt idea, like a bearing puller.

Anyway, for Andy, there is an aluminium sleeve in between the 2 rear wheel bearings, which has a lip that extends into the bearing ID for about 3mm. If you have access to a lathe, turn a scrap piece of 25mm dia steel bar down to a precise OD to fit into the sleeve with a square shoulder. After heating the aluminium hub with boiling water around the bearing housing, use the drift to tap out the bearing.

The steel spacers usually prise out, if stuck then try a bearing puller or the rawl bolt (Sleeve anchor here) to remove.

Ta ta, PeterB.

Hi Peter, well you couldn't have got much further away than NZ, where did you used to live in the North East? did you ride over here too?

Best regards

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Hi Andrewwww,

Used to live in Nunthorpe, near Marton, rode in most of the East Yorks Centre events and Nationals. Was a lot of fun then, lots of good riders and heaps of laughs, good bunch of lads. We used to ride our bikes to the trials then, not rich enough to have a car. On Sunday's the petrol stations were closed in the country areas so we carried a gallon of petrol in a haversack to get back home - freezin in the winter.

Ta ra, PeterB.

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A quick update to let you know how i did it in the end.

boiling water wasnt enough

a rawbolt wasnt enough, even tightening it with as much force as i could, it still slipped free before the bearing did.

i finally did it using a length of 20mm steel conduit (electrical conduit) using the end that had been threaded it was a spot on fit to slide inside the inner race and touch the spacer.

I had to use a blow torch on the hub, then a disturbing amount of force with a hammer to pop the first bearing out, after that i was able to heat and hammer out the other side.

I wouldnt be surprised if these were the original bearings, they were in such a state and were wedged in so tight! i hope i never have the same trouble again, it was very stressful having to hammer a spoked wheel sideways so hard!

Andy.

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