keta Posted May 31, 2009 Report Share Posted May 31, 2009 Me again, Guys, I have removed the engine today and I am going to begin replacing parts of it within reason. Is there anything unusual I should expect? I guess my first question is how much play would you expect to find in certain parts. I removed the cylinder for today and grabbed the piston. On both the little end and big end of the conrod there is no noticeable upwards/downward play, I assume this is where it really matters. However if you grab the piston in your hand and rotate clockwise/anticlockwise there is a little play that way at both sides of the conrod. Also with the engine removed if I rotate the fly then you get a small clunk every turn. Is this normal? Something to do with the kick start mechanism? I'll be opening it fully next weekend but an idea of what should and shouldn't be would be good lol. The engine had a high pitched, every stroke, rattle before hand. It sounded a bit like a bee or something like that!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted June 1, 2009 Report Share Posted June 1, 2009 (edited) Well, once again, these things are difficult to quantify without hearing, but there should be almost no percievable up/ down slack in the top and bottom rod bearings. A bit of rotational is ok as long as #1 is met. I believe you stated the mains had been replaced, ald as long as there is little to no percievable movement in the flywheel in an up/down or in/out I would not be inclined to bust the cases. The new clearance on the main bearings is .003-.004 inch. and that would be excceded for normal wear. Your description sounds like piston or ring noise. Depending upon the general condition of the bore, this could go three ways. A standard piston ring replacement, up to and including a quick hone job and next size piston done yourself. Iffy, with no experience. Sometimes with! A professional hone job with matching piston. A replate with fitted piston. Available in "ABCD' sizes, what are they, about .01 mm difference? or was it .05mm? Yours should be marked with the letter. Whots in your wallett? Edited June 1, 2009 by copemech Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keta Posted June 1, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 1, 2009 Thanks, No I didn't detect up and down movement just rotational, which is the bearing within the con rod rocking slightly. It is surprisingly still on piston A. The engine seems to have very good compression as it is hard to kick but starts first kick. I was assuming this meant the rings and piston were ok, hmm. I think I will proceed to open the job lot to be honest as the previous owner seems like a right cowboy and I'd like to know what else has been bodged. When I lifted the cylinder off the last owner hadn't bothered replacing the gasket, even worse hadn't bothered to scrape off what remained when he opened it! So it had about a 1/3 of a gasket on! I fear the same will have been done throughout! Darn though, I was hoping this would be just bearings! Pistons are getting a little expensive for an old bike! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keta Posted June 1, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 1, 2009 Oh and can anyone comment on the noise I hear every fly rotation. A very soft clunk or click at the same point of rotation each time. This is with the cylinder and piston off so nothing to do with them. Is this just the kickstart? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trialsnutterman Posted June 1, 2009 Report Share Posted June 1, 2009 It could be all sorts, I'd suggest taking the clutch casing off, then taking the clutch out totally if it still makes the noise it has to be something rubbing in the crank cases or bad mains, if not check all the gears for tight spots or missing teeth on the water pump gear as it easy to break these if the gears are not aligned when the case is put back on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted June 2, 2009 Report Share Posted June 2, 2009 Agreed, by removing the clutch side cover you eliminate the water pump. If there is still a rough spot, then you can (mark) and remove the nut on the clutch hub and inspect again to isolate the problem. A small piece of metal that has lodged into the primary gears could cause it. May appear as only a small spot on one gear tooth. Just thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keta Posted June 2, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2009 Thanks guys I will delve further this weekend. I bloody hope it isn't the water pump. I have just rebuilt that with all new parts and they ain't cheap!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted June 3, 2009 Report Share Posted June 3, 2009 Doubt that, as is new with probable exception of drive gear. Does sound as though the rest may have been a bit botched, and being totally in question now, might also recommend checking the crank in the vee blocks for runout on the weights and shafts. All done later , Cheers, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keta Posted June 3, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 3, 2009 Doubt that, as is new with probable exception of drive gear. Does sound as though the rest may have been a bit botched, and being totally in question now, might also recommend checking the crank in the vee blocks for runout on the weights and shafts. All done later , Cheers, Yeah all new including drive gear. All check it all out. My noise could well be just the fact its all together wrong! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayne thais Posted June 3, 2009 Report Share Posted June 3, 2009 I would hope that there is someone in your area who is an experienced mechanic who could answer all of your questions for you first hand. It is extremely difficult to attempt to diagnose the type of questions that you are asking without being there. I think you would save yourself some time energy and money by asking a mate, even if you have to pay them. to check out your engine and answer all of your questions. Wayne Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted June 4, 2009 Report Share Posted June 4, 2009 I would hope that there is someone in your area who is an experienced mechanic who could answer all of your questions for you first hand. It is extremely difficult to attempt to diagnose the type of questions that you are asking without being there.I think you would save yourself some time energy and money by asking a mate, even if you have to pay them. to check out your engine and answer all of your questions. Wayne Crap, come on Wayne, this is 2009 for gods sake! People do not do things that way any longer! They just communicate over the internet sending text, pics and audio files! Hell you can do it all from an I-phone and fix anything anywhere for free! The internet is free still is it not! Tons of opinions out there! Pick one! When all the technology fails, just revert back to rule #1, as unfortunatly, none of us have crystal balls or x-ray vision, contrary to popular belief! And I say this after working with many of the best for many years, yourself included. Your son in law is no slouch! I actually found Rule #1 in a contemporary medical text at one point sometime back. It is still a very valid method of operation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keta Posted June 4, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 4, 2009 I would hope that there is someone in your area who is an experienced mechanic who could answer all of your questions for you first hand. It is extremely difficult to attempt to diagnose the type of questions that you are asking without being there.I think you would save yourself some time energy and money by asking a mate, even if you have to pay them. to check out your engine and answer all of your questions. Wayne I'm sure there is but I find the best way to learn how to do something is by doing it yourself! And learning from any mistakes/problems you encounter. I've never had to pay someone to do anything on any of my cars but it took time and energy to learn and as Cope says there is much more of a resource on the internet for cars. I will likely see what is wrong immedately but things like play in the bearings/piston is something you'll only know after having a few bikes, armed with a little starting knowledge helps me eliminate potential problems. As I am interested in learning about any bike I ride, this cheap one is my best bet. I'll get round all its little niggles eventually. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keta Posted June 30, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2009 (edited) Hey guys, I'm back on my week off again after 4 weeks straight! I have had time to play with my bike again this week! I took the entire engine apart and inspected and rebuilt. I replaced all the bearings as they were cheap, other than the mains which appeared to have been replaced as the seller advertised! No gaskets had been replaced by the last owner just blodged with silicon! Some washers were missing between gears in the transmission. My noise was the ratchet on the kick start not fully disengaging! A bit of spring bending and it now does. It seems the previous owner had removed the flywheel by hammer and chisel I used a cheap Edited June 30, 2009 by Keta Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keta Posted June 30, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2009 (edited) I'm guessing the voltage regulator is knack'd causing the motor to burn out. I'm sure I was reading 50v DC! That can't be that high can it? Bike not back firing as much as I thought really. After listening to a lot of bikes on youtube, they are often quite pop sounding anyway. It is a bit more severe on mine though! Edited June 30, 2009 by Keta Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keta Posted June 30, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2009 Seen as the bike isn't worth a great deal I may have to find alternative solutions to the fan and regulator problem! If both are indeed buggered as I fear they are! Is there other options for a voltage regulator? A fan motor will be easy enough to find and aftermarket attach lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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