adam Posted October 1, 2009 Report Share Posted October 1, 2009 i was wondering what spacing your reed block does to the power . does it give more bottom or top end power. because there is a alluminium spacer between the head and reed block . on my rev3 270 and wasnt sure if it comes as standered or its been added Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shercoman2k8 Posted October 1, 2009 Report Share Posted October 1, 2009 Neither, it softens the power to make the bike easier to handle... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the addict Posted October 1, 2009 Report Share Posted October 1, 2009 Not sure what year rev3 you,ve got Adam but we used to take the spacer out between the carb and reed block (cant remember but dont think its alu) this made the pickup alittle cleaner from low revs under load (not sure why?) but the biggest advantage was it made putting the carb back on reall easy , did this on my 04 and 06 rev3 - 270's Boyesen reeds work brilliant in the 270 as well as the 27.5(i think) pilot jet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adam Posted October 1, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2009 thanks for the advise addict. ive ordered some boysen reeds cant wait to try them now i think il try it without the spacer and change the pilot jet also and see the diference . i recognise the stream in your profile picture is it up the rhonnda theres some good rides there. thanks again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the addict Posted October 1, 2009 Report Share Posted October 1, 2009 (edited) Adam, yes its where you think it is, not been for a few years but hope to go up soon If theres a spacer between the cyclinder and reed block I dont think thats the one to take out, pretty sure the one I took out was between the carb and block. When you get the Boyesens be really carefull taking them out of the blister pack, I used a scalpel and carefully cut around them, you dont want to bend them when opening the pack. Make sure you choose a really good fitting screw driver to take out the reed petals from the block as they are mega easy to round and loctite them back in, you dont need the rev plates with Boyesens either. I didnt need to re-jet the carb and the difference was very noticable in the low end rev range, the bike became very hard to stall and ran cleaner. If you can ever get hold of AvGas it works very well in Rev3's, mix it 50/50 with super unleaded and 70ml of TTS Castrol in 5 litres Edited October 1, 2009 by The Addict Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jse Posted October 2, 2009 Report Share Posted October 2, 2009 When you get the Boyesens be really carefull taking them out of the blister pack, I used a scalpel and carefully cut around them, you dont want to bend them when opening the pack. Make sure you choose a really good fitting screw driver to take out the reed petals from the block as they are mega easy to round and loctite them back in, you dont need the rev plates with Boyesens either. I will second that advice. The small screws are generally butter soft and strip easily. Use the newest screwdriver you have and put good pressure on the screwdriver so it won't pop up out of the slots. A little "trick" to extend the life of the Boyesen reeds (and any reeds) is to take some 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper and carefully and lightly sand the edges of the reed to add a very slight radius. This reduces the sharp "stress riser" (a sharp 90 degree angle) at the edge and will extend their life considerably. Spacer plates can be used to modify power delivery very slightly or just to space the carb out a little to clear the top of the cases. What a spacer plate does is to lengthen the intake tract. Lengthening the intake tract tends to favor the bottom end power delivery as it lengthens the pressure pulses. Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adam Posted October 2, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2009 thanks for the advise everyone. i fitted the boysen reeds today but the main reason for fitting them was i thought my original reeds were worn . because the bike was ticking over realy high and if i turned the tickover screw down enough to slow it up it would stall this was why i changed my reeds but the problem is still there . i spoke to someone today and they seem to think it could be a leak from the crankcase any advise please Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
liviob Posted October 3, 2009 Report Share Posted October 3, 2009 You may have a lean condition if the air screw is set too lean which would cause a hanging idle. Or you may have an air leak from a number of possible sources. Check the carb top or intake manifold for air leaks. If the main bearing seals are leaking you could test this by putting the transmission vent tube in a container of water while the motor is running. If there is an excessive amount of air bubbles coming from the vent tube you probobly have a bad seal and bearing. An ocasional air bubble is ok. Also is the transmission oil being consumed? You can check the ignition side main bearing seal by spraying propane gas from a plumbers torch at the seal while the motor is running. You might also be able to use some kind of flamable electrical contact cleaner from a spray can. Direct the spray of flamable substance at the bearing seal and if the idle speed increases you have a leaking seal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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