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The Beta Clutch Fix


dan williams
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The tabs are better than my stock plates but still a bit bumpy, will give them a quick blast and polish. They are caked in glue though, so will sort that too. Do you recommend roughing up the steel plates? I've seen this mentioned a lot but not on the clutch mod PDF?

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No, I don't think roughing up the plates is necessary.

My theory on why roughing up the plates helps the sticky clutch has to do with the glue. I think roughing up the plates allows them to retain a film of oil which helps keep the glue from cold flowing onto the metal plates and sticking. Once the glue is cleaned up roughing up the plates just reduces the surface area for the friction material.

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done that clutch fix few days ago for me beta evo 2010.

Changed my gear oil for VW DSG oil and seems that i got quite awesome clutch action and gears work really well atm.

So i think that there is one oil to use more :P

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  • 2 months later...

Hi Dan or anyone else with help and ideas! I have a beta 300 factory, and this weekend i had major problems with the clutch suddenly engaging when i rev the engine to the limit. I've also had this problem on earlier betas.. Anyone else experienced this?

The problem is when i'm standing still in front of big steps with short or no space in front and need maximum revs and then quick engagement of the clutch to jump/ride the bike up. the clutch works fine on normal riding, but then at full revs it suddenly engages and sends me crashing into whatever is in front of me.. It's just like i let go of the lever, except i don't, and then of course get REALLY surprised when i start to move (fast)!!

I haven't tried your fix yet, do you think it will help? I'm pretty tired of this happening, so that clutch is being opened tomorrow! I will give the fix a shot anyway, but if anyone have other ideas you are more than welcome! i've also seen people drilling holes in the basket and pressure plate to improve oil flow. Is this a good idea?

thanks,

Martin

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Another satisfied customer.

+1

Did the mod on my rev3 before, and again on the EVO (300/4T) last week. Removed 2 springs also!

I didn't use a file on the tabs, but polished them on a 'cottonwheel' (is that the correct word??, to polish alu or stainless steel)

Gives a bit of wear on the cotton, but a very smooth clutch as result

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Hi Dan or anyone else with help and ideas! I have a beta 300 factory...

Just thinking: how old is your oil and do you use the right type? Maybe try changing brand? How old is your clutch fluid, level is OK?

probably the more technical experienced guys, have other ideas...

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Just thinking: how old is your oil and do you use the right type? Maybe try changing brand? How old is your clutch fluid, level is OK?

probably the more technical experienced guys, have other ideas...

Oil was brand new, changed the night before! I use Ipone Box x-treme, recommended by the importer in Norway. Maybe I try some ATF oil.. I haven't changed the fluid yet, but the bike is only 3-4 months. (will change now anyway) i've bled it and no signs of anything wrong there.. :/

I'm about to open the clutch now, quite curious if i have the "racing" clutch basket!

http://betamotor.com/en/trial/parts/kit-frizione-evo-2t

or maybe something like this could be better!

http://saundersextremesports.co.uk/product.php?id=1308505240&parent=4

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Just a thought.. could it be that the clutch plates and friction discs don't separate properly, but the oil film in between make it disengage. Then, when revving, oil is forced out of the clutch, causing the friction to increase and the clutch to drag??

could a thinner oil help fix this? I imagine the oil would flow out of the clutch easier, but also make the plates less sticky..

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This has actually been asked about before and I didn't have a good answer then either. My suspicion is that the fiber plates, as they're rattling around at high speed, momentarily grab the side of the grooves causing them to get wedged and possibly flex into good contact with the steel plates. The clutch mod as described shouldn't make this any worse and just may fix it. I don't know.

The last time I held a throttle wide open to go up anything was long ago and I'm just not that gung ho anymore so I won't be testing this theory out.

Oh I just reread the oil theory above. That's an interesting thought.

Edited by Dan Williams
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Carried out the mod last night.

Close examination of the friction plates revealed a small continuous raised lip of metal that runs all around the plate at the inner bottom edge of the friction tabs and across the gap in between, possibly there to help alignment during manufacture? As well as removing the glue, I filed the raised lip flush and then put a small chamfer all around the inner circle of the metal plate.

Sorry if this is mentioned in the PDF, but I skimmed it.

Results are amazing

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I finished the "fix" a few days ago, with new friction plates. and drilled holes in the basket, pressure plate and hub. I smoothed out the grooves in the basket, even though they were very small. And I run ATF oil.

did it work? YES! actually, I'm very surprised how well it seem to perform! So grateful Dan took the time to make this guide!!

The predicted rattle is slightly annoying, but as long as it works i'm happy.. just hope it stays good!

On a side note, the factory clutch discs (2/5 discs), with "increased guide surface" had the WORST finish I've ever seen! They had grooves in the sliding direction, but very rough and with big notches. I can't imagine them sliding very well. So I tried to smooth them, and put them back in. Also, one of the "standard" discs was sort of blue, from heating I guess. so I changed them to new ones. I took some photos of the mods, will upload them if there's interest.

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