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The Beta Clutch Fix


dan williams
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On 18/07/2018 at 9:52 AM, dan williams said:

Removing springs is what I used to do but then I’m an old guy riding bunny sections. Some of our more talented friends found that removing springs led to clutch slippage so it isn’t a panacea. I had spacers made according to a design by forum member IKB which do something similar without leaving parts out. PM me for details.

Do you have those specs for the spacers please Dan :-) I put stainless washers in for now.

Edited by Eric Brackenbury
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  • 5 weeks later...

Great thread!  Thanks to Dan and all who contribute.  I'm going to take a look at my 2011 Sherco plates.

Regarding spacers, without knowing any relevant dimensions, my first thought was shim washers from McMaster-Carr.  Precision made, and cheap.

McMaster.com. Best search function on any website I have seen

https://www.mcmaster.com/#shim-washers/=1ef9nb8

Example: 6mm ID x 12mm OD x 1mm THK stainless steel shim, Part number 98089A377, Quantity 25 for $11.00

 

Edited by Sir Real Ed
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  • 5 months later...
 

Not sure I’d call that clean. Also that’s one of the 3mm thick plates. I take those out and replace with the 2.7mm thick plates on the 2T. What’s that groove in the pads?

I’m out of the 3mm spacers I had made so I can’t send any to you. 

Edited by dan williams
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  • 1 month later...

Hi Dan and the rest of the folks reading this thread.

I have finished doing the clutch on my 300 4T factory bike and although the spring pull is fairly firm, the whole movement of the clutch lever is Soooo smooth now.

I also did my 390 RR 4T and the improvements to that are amazing.

Now I will tell you I have been hand making jewellery for nearly 60 years, what's that got to do with it you ASK !

Well a number of advantages, I have very trained eyes for detail and tools most folks don't even know exist. I removed the excess glue from between the fibre pads with a flat hand carving tool, somewhat like a wide hand engraving cutter. There is no glue as I got it down to the bare metal including the grooves in the tabs. Next I took a cut 4 hand file and cleaned the leading and trailing edges of the tabs with just enough stroke to do the job, then one light stroke to remove the sharp edges. Next I polished them with a fine emery paper (not wet and dry) , All the time I was using my +3 headset and my working glasses. Now you will understand better Why I mentioned what I do. The point is, it pays to get in there visually so you see and understand what exactly you are achieving.

I hope my information will help someone to do the best job they can.

Thanks so much for your help and .pdf on this subject Dan

DSC03879.thumb.JPG.f8a88e0b693d4d15b80452474ae78780.JPGDSC03878edit.thumb.JPG.95e08b9def2f2c4c5885cdf880ea778e.JPG

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And I thought I was being precise! Nice work. By any chance did you see the hand made gold TRS piece made for Jordi Tarres by one of his riding buddies? The thing is absolutely beautiful.

9F86DDCA-AE0B-4148-853D-42D117F8A6C8.jpeg

Edited by dan williams
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  • 10 months later...

It looks as though several clutch parts are shared with sherco, e.g. updated springs are listed as fitting both.

You can get 20% softer springs for a sherco, which might be worth a try. 

I've gone for the cheaper option and ordered sherco clutch spring retaining washers to try, they're stepped not flat and they are much cheaper than the red top hat ones fitted to some beta's.

Edit: the washers aren't a direct fit, they fit the springs but will need drilling out to fit the bolt.

Edited by totty79
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