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The Beta Clutch Fix


dan williams
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21 minutes ago, dan williams said:

Give the hydraulics a bit of time to settle in before you adjust. Six 2.7 plates is the older configuration and the one I prefer. You can get some adjustment of the bite point by shimming the thrust washer on the throwout bearing but you might just need to back the lever adjuster of a bit. 

Having done some reading on here, and on YouTube, I've currently got the lever set as I've read, to get the maximum throw with a tiny amount of free play before it moves the piston. 

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6 hours ago, Mattycoops said:

Having done some reading on here, and on YouTube, I've currently got the lever set as I've read, to get the maximum throw with a tiny amount of free play before it moves the piston. 

With a tiny amount of free play, as soon as it gets hot the fluid will not move as it should. Then it slowly gets worse and worse.

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14 hours ago, lineaway said:

With a tiny amount of free play, as soon as it gets hot the fluid will not move as it should. Then it slowly gets worse and worse.

Noted thanks. But if the master cylinder is out to the circlip it rests against, surely more free play in the lever doesn't allow it to move any further? 

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On 6/10/2023 at 2:50 PM, Mattycoops said:

Having done some reading on here, and on YouTube, I've currently got the lever set as I've read, to get the maximum throw with a tiny amount of free play before it moves the piston. 

With a tiny amount of free play, as soon as it gets hot the fluid will not move as it should. Then it slowly gets worse and worse.

 There are two holes in the reservoir which the piston has to pass by  Without free play the piston blocks the second hole and the fluid is stopped.

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19 hours ago, lineaway said:

With a tiny amount of free play, as soon as it gets hot the fluid will not move as it should. Then it slowly gets worse and worse.

 There are two holes in the reservoir which the piston has to pass by  Without free play the piston blocks the second hole and the fluid is stopped.

I'm confused now, two people have said this, but I've got it set so the piston comes out and sits against the circlip, then there is a small amount of free play. Is this wrong? The piston cannot move past the circlip surely? I thought if it was against the circlip that meant the refill home was open, to relieve any pressure? 

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On 6/10/2023 at 11:34 PM, dan williams said:

I’ve found the better riders tend to like having the clutch engage a bit further out. I like it to start to grab fairly close to the bar which is why I like the clutch to be really progressive. What oil are you running?

Putoline gp10

 

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4 hours ago, Mattycoops said:

I'm confused now, two people have said this, but I've got it set so the piston comes out and sits against the circlip, then there is a small amount of free play. Is this wrong? The piston cannot move past the circlip surely? I thought if it was against the circlip that meant the refill home was open, to relieve any pressure? 

You’re fine. That’s the correct rest position.

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Your oil is roughly the same as 15wt motor oil according to the charts I can find so nothing odd there. It sounds to me as if your clutch is operating properly but you could try adjusting the set screw in a bit while making sure the master piston still sits on its circlip. Does the clutch drag at all? One thing most new trials bike owners do is adjust their levers so they can get all their fingers on the lever. I understand as I had a Maico years ago. :) But most of us ride with one finger on the clutch and brake and move our lever perches as far to the center of the bars as they will go. This changes the leverage and the feel of things. Just a thought. Anything you post to this forum will get you a wide range of opinions but in the end you just have to mess with the settings until you get something you're happy with. 

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1 hour ago, dan williams said:

Your oil is roughly the same as 15wt motor oil according to the charts I can find so nothing odd there. It sounds to me as if your clutch is operating properly but you could try adjusting the set screw in a bit while making sure the master piston still sits on its circlip. Does the clutch drag at all? One thing most new trials bike owners do is adjust their levers so they can get all their fingers on the lever. I understand as I had a Maico years ago. :) But most of us ride with one finger on the clutch and brake and move our lever perches as far to the center of the bars as they will go. This changes the leverage and the feel of things. Just a thought. Anything you post to this forum will get you a wide range of opinions but in the end you just have to mess with the settings until you get something you're happy with. 

 

 

 

 

6 hours ago, Mattycoops said:

I'm confused now, two people have said this, but I've got it set so the piston comes out and sits against the circlip, then there is a small amount of free play. Is this wrong? The piston cannot move past the circlip surely? I thought if it was against the circlip that meant the refill home was open, to relieve any pressure? 

 The confusion is not leaving enough free play for expansion. Once it gets hot the free play goes away.  

 This has happened ever since trials went to hydraulics, which by 1994 all but a few bikes had a hydraulic clutch. What happens is the rider gets his levers just right. Including bringing in the levers just so, and having just enough free play for his sweet spot. The combination of all the adjustments brings the clutch to be set so tight, that as soon as you have 30 minutes or so into a ride it all goes to crap.

Good luck with your settings. Some get it right and most keep fighting it.

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  • 1 month later...

Another happy "Beta clutch fix" customer! This Beta forum in it's entirety has been great. My REV3 is an 02 model and has had several owners prior to me but the clutch was still stock. I did all the clean-up work with a small square file and polished the tangs with a scotchbrite belt and the whole project only took a couple hours. On it's first outing it was a little noisy but worked much better (good enough for second in class) and ended up meeting Dan and getting a set of his off-set spring washers which lightened clutch action quite a bit. Thanks!

 

i-sFR6h8K-X2

 

 

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1 hour ago, dan williams said:

Hopefully we get to ride the event in RI together in Sept. If you haven’t ridden Exeter it’s not to be missed.

I love the RI event. I get to work as a checker at the National event which will be a great experience!

 

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  • 5 months later...
On 12/29/2009 at 8:33 AM, dan williams said:

OK folks, being off work for a week (mandatory holiday shutdown) I had time to complete the fiber plate modification document. This makes the clutch progressive, eliminates drag, cold stick, slip and reduces lever pull (if you leave two springs out).

And the best part... It's free (if you already have the files and Dremel polishing wheel)

Yes it will cost you some time but hey you're working on your bike. That's still quality time compared to working on the car.

The PDF came out over 10Meg so if you don't have a high speed connection it may take a bit. Sorry but the pictures are necessary.

Enjoy

Andy Edit: File optimised and size reduced to 1.8MB :rolleyes:

Clutch_Fix.pdf 1.79 MB · 41,537 downloads

(Also going to pin this topic so it stays up top)

That’s a great read and pics’ thanks. (Makes me want a microscope too now😆)

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