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Sherco 3.2 4t Reasonable For A Beginner?


jeffchri
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Well, I ended up getting a Monty 4RT locally - dude at my company was selling one in great condition for under $5k, so I went for it. About $3k less than the Sherco was going to do to me. Now the fiancee and I have the same bike, which is handy for lots of reasons ...

Thanks for the all input, folks. Maybe after I ride a few years I'll want something with more giddyup, but I suspect the Monty will suit me fine for now. :thumbup:

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Thanks for your inputs. A flywheel mod will take some considerable effort and probably cost. I'm going to opt for the 21mm OKO and have ordered it today. Taming the beast is my priority allowing me to improve my riding style and skills. I'll check in with you later on the progress of the change.

Bob

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  • 3 weeks later...

Not really a kitten.

The 21mm Oko was installed on my Sherco 3.2 4T after it was disassembled and matched to the Keihin to see where it compares. All passages were deburred (all is a must), surfaces and parts cleaned up with a file. The screw hole on the bowl that blocks the small hose was ground off. I left all settings and jetting as it came. As the carb is the same as the Keihin in all dimensions, I just bolted it on and fired it up. I figured that low speed was very close to the 28mm in jetting and idle air screw settings and was correct in my observation.

I spent most of the time sorting out the float level. I arrived at lower factory setting (as described in the Sherco measuring method) to 1.0 inch. Any lower it won't start. Any higher and it floods. A couple ten thousandths count. At the level where the overflow brass hole is on the bowl worked for me. (Hint: Do this off the bike. Plug the fuel tank in and see if it floods or starves on the bench. Then proceed to fine tune it on the bike.) Idle was set but the idle air screw remained the same 1 1/4 out setting.

I wanted it to start cold, hot, very hot, laying on either side, picking it up from laying it down for a while and every scenario I could throw at it. One or two kicks and it fires...every time. No hesitation when opening the throttle hard. No problems. It chugs like a 4-stroke with authority.

The MJ needle is quite slim and probably runs a little fat, but with the smaller jet it runs clean to full throttle in third gear up a slope in a short burst. No leanness or back firing noted on acceleration. Probably a bit rich when the throttle is shut as it does pop. Spark plug tests showed nothing I could rely on. For the time being, this is not a concern for me.

It is a dream to ride at slow speed. None of that jerky surprise. The throttle is very smooth and progressive. The power up to around 1/8-1/4 throttle is considerably (underline this) lower and not explosive one bit. It doesn't pull real hard like the 28, so giving it more throttle and working on technique gives good results. More electric. 1/2 throttle tests didn't demonstrate any noticeable difference to me. 4th gear wheelies are still available but not like the 28 pulls them.

Here are the box stock specs:

Oko 21mm:

M.J. 103

M.J. needle: 3G9 clip set in second from the bottom (very much thinner on the bottom end than the stock allowing more fuel to flow off setting the smaller jet size)

Slide: #2

P.J. 42

Idle air screw: 1 1/4 turns out

Yes it can be made into a beginners bike. It is a very cost effective and easy switch that it is worth the effort. As I haven't tried it in different conditions over the year here in New Zealand, I'm sure there'll be some adjustments. I'm off riding.

Bob

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Hey Bob,

Well done....awesome job and write-up too :o

And no need for that "block of wood" (to limit her to 1/2 throttle) after all :)

bobtlr....OKO22mm?...not that I am aware of.

Come on Cope.... I know you're dying to say more than that. ;)

Best of balance.

Neo

Edited by Neo
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"Come on Cope.... I know you're dying to say more than that."

Yea, you haven't figured out what that bloody stick is for! :o

No, actually, seems possibly a good call on the 21 there matey. To be honest, I did not pay enough attention to know they exhisted when I was on the look for the 24.

As these things go, this is the primary reasin I never converted to the 4T. The time and money spent in this type thing could be extreme! All depending upon what you want as a result. The variations like heavy flywheel, smaller bore and such. Everything is a tradeoff.

As far as upping a 21 to a 22 or 23, best I figure all it would take is a pass if the drill bit through the bore on the press. Got to strip the whistler out beforehand, but seems it would self center ok. From the factory I do not see anything special here other than the size of the hole drilled in the casting.

As in 231's post, the entire deal with float levels on the 4T is a bit miffing to me. I just do not quite understand exactly why they are soo sensitive. Although I also find the Sherco SPS system, which was obviously developed for a reason in conjunction with Kiehin, to be a bit miffing.

231 obviously has a bit of a grip on these things through his experience. I am happy to see such a report, very encouraging. Not sure if BOBTLR wants to get into further experiments?

Oh, but back to the Witch Doctor Neo, you must pm me the addy if you want CF swingarm guards. Fit '07 new style arm. :)

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Hello there. Greetings from Spain.

I am quite a 4strokes fan.

The Sherco 3.2 is without doubt the nicest 4 stroke to ride (perfect balance, sweet suspensions, powerfull engine and light as a feather). I have previuosly owned a 4rt and a Beta4T (300).

The easiest and cheapest way to bring its strong character down is simply substituting the original fast response throttle (white) for a slow response one (black). Both manufactured by Domino. The bike handles completely different and it doesn

Edited by cota200
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