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What's The Best Engine Oil For 320 4t


gregrsv
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Hi

I am interested to know what engine oils people have been using in thier 320's .

Ive been experimenting with the clutch to make it less grabby, i tried to run it minus 2 clutch springs and the clutch had brilliant progression and was very light but slipped in top gear .

So ive put the springs back in and dressed the tabs on the friction plates and clutch basket with a smooth flat file . This has helped a bit , but im wondering if different oil might help a bit as well.

cheers

greg

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It seems a bit limiting because of the common sump. You need a motor oil to properly lubricate the power side of things and ATF is not really designed for that. The delema is the clutch side of things, where the thinner ATF works with the lighter spring pressure.

A bit of slippage in 4th or 5th is not the end of the world you know. Just depends on limits, as they are designed to slip. Top riders slip them hard all day long and they will take a beating. A bit of slip is nothing! Just don't intentionally burn them up!

As the motor must be lubricated properly, a high grade synthetic 5-20 motor oil would be about your lightest grade to go with. This stuff takes a beating in the cars I work on, and survives, and is very common in todays motors. ATF is about 10W, but the 20 should still provide decent reaction(squish out)on the clutch side of things.

I have other ideas as well if you want a follow on experiment.

You are your own test pilot! :crying:

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hey,

I've put spacers in front of the dish that pushes on the spring, i did it now on 2 springs but i will try wat it gives on 4 and 6 springs

what is the other idea you had i would be intressed to try it

best regards bob

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Thanks guys ,

I shall try one of the lighter synthetics as you mentione cope , i agree with slippage in top not being too much of a worry as my rev3 slipped in top for years!, but the 320 was slipping badly in top you could barely open the throttle without a slip.

Regarding Bobs comment , i think ive got what you mean ,

I was going to fit washers to act as spacers at the top of the threaded bosses that the clutch springs screw down onto , this would reduce the amount of compression on the springs when the bolts are fully tightened , and hopefully lightening the action without too much slippage , is that the same as you are meaning Bob?

cheers

Greg

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Thanks guys ,

I shall try one of the lighter synthetics as you mentione cope , i agree with slippage in top not being too much of a worry as my rev3 slipped in top for years!, but the 320 was slipping badly in top you could barely open the throttle without a slip.

Regarding Bobs comment , i think ive got what you mean ,

I was going to fit washers to act as spacers at the top of the threaded bosses that the clutch springs screw down onto , this would reduce the amount of compression on the springs when the bolts are fully tightened , and hopefully lightening the action without too much slippage , is that the same as you are meaning Bob?

cheers

Greg

yes thats wat i ment sorry my English is not that good,

i felt 2 spacers give a difference but i could add some more (thats 1 spacer per bosses and this on 2 of the 6 bosses)

best regards bob

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Bob

Thanks for that , your english is fine its just my Jockanese!!

I'll try a couple of spacers tommorrow and see what like , after ive done the propshaft on my landcruiser - its rattling the teeth out of my heed!!

cheers

greg

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hey,

I've put spacers in front of the dish that pushes on the spring, i did it now on 2 springs but i will try wat it gives on 4 and 6 springs

what is the other idea you had i would be intressed to try it

best regards bob

This will only give limited results(nil) as you cannot space them out far enough due to clearances. Exmple, if you have a 5 N/mm spring running height of 28mm of compression = 140 N . Multiply by 6 springs in the pack = 840N of pressure.

Reduce each spring preload by 1mm washer and you have reduced the pack by 30N, or less than 3%

Obviously the -2 spring setup results in a 33% reduction of applied force.

I have run the -2 setup on the 2T with light oil for the last couple years, and like it for my light usage, yet all this may spell trouble for the 4T with its heavy power pulses and such, and needing the thicker oil.

I will tell you one thing I recently did as experiment was to glass bead all the metal plates, which slightly roughens their polished surfaces.

Thusfar, the progression has been supurb and with no slippage even with 4 springs. Time will tell just how long all this lasts, but for now it seems near perfectly light and responsive.

Test pilots?

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how exactly did you do that?

are the plates like the surface of a golf ball then (well sort of)?

i know that works on a cota 4rt, so i guess it should work on a sherco to (are those the same plates otherwise maybe use the mitani plates for a 4 rt?)

anyone knows if the olle shock on the sherco and the one on a beta evo are the same ?

here in Belgium i can buy a improved evo rear shock for half the price a ohlins or trp shock

best regards bob

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how exactly did you do that?

are the plates like the surface of a golf ball then (well sort of)?

i know that works on a cota 4rt, so i guess it should work on a sherco to (are those the same plates otherwise maybe use the mitani plates for a 4 rt?)

anyone knows if the olle shock on the sherco and the one on a beta evo are the same ?

here in Belgium i can buy a improved evo rear shock for half the price a ohlins or trp shock

best regards bob

Bob, yes the micro finish would be more like a golf ball using glass bead. Much smoother than the "sand" blast(sand has a sharp crystilene structure). Many machine shops, or aircraft shops have these proper blasting cabinets set- up, or can change from sand to glass bead media in minutes.

I doubt the Mont or Beta parts would interchange. :)

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Beta friction plates are the same :rotfl:

Steel plates are different, hub has splines that are quite different

That is interisting, and I suspected as much although unable to verify myself. The clutch on the Sherco is made by Sureflex.

I suspect the Betas may use similar springs as well, but once again have not been able to get any specs on them.

Objective being to come up with a spring set that is evenly proportioned (all 6) yet about 20-25% lighter than the stockers, yet more than the -2 setup at 33% less.

Mind you the spring force in itself has only a relative effect upon the progression and feel. Add the ability of squeezing out the oil separation between the plates.

As an addundum to my bead blasting experiment, I did another thing which is more directed towards the plate sticking thing after sitting. As this thing came from another poster and friend on here, and as I had it all apart anyway.

Taking the sharp jewlers file and scribing a light " / " diagonal groove into each pad on each friction plate. This as well can help oil entry and exit, yet is a real pain in the ass as well.

This done as an added thing to the Dan Williams mods as well. Pile all this up, and one can waste his day off, as it takes time, yet at the same time, mine seems to work as well as anything I can recall, even with the 4 springs only, and still light as a feather. Lots of work! :rotfl:

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Beta springs are different, can't remember exactly how but think the beta ones are larger diameter

Next time I'm down at the beta importers picking up the Ty250 to make some more changes I'll take the old springs with me to compare them

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