jse Posted October 27, 2010 Report Share Posted October 27, 2010 ... The result is... a cold start is a throttle shut + choke on & it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leanin Posted October 28, 2010 Report Share Posted October 28, 2010 I have an 09 300 pro which will start easily with the following technique. Put bike in gear with clutch out pull bike bacwards so piston goes to TDC pull in clutch kick I now use this method every time I start the bike warm or cold - much easier and a lot less stress on kickstart assembly THANK-YOU for posting this! I tried this technique yesterday and it makes my new GG 300 MUCH easier to start. The bike has so much compression, sometimes I could barely get the kick starter to move. This technique allowed me to get the piston moving much faster with less effort and it almost always started 1st kick. Thanks again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hrc1 Posted October 29, 2010 Report Share Posted October 29, 2010 I use this technique on my 300 & it works. Years of big single fourstrokes ownership give you this : find compression then ease through compression (just), return kickstart to top of movement, then kick. Much less knee strain... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aaadirt Posted July 24, 2011 Report Share Posted July 24, 2011 Bingo!, GG GasGas TXT 300 starting problem solved. Have 5 hours on a new 2011 GG and was getting frustrated with the random amount of kicks it took to start cold or hot. After re-jetting to 40 pilot 114 main for +2500ft altitude, left the needle clip 3 down and plugs NGK BPR5ES, BOSCH WR8DCX,CHAMP RN11YC4 .024 GAP all with no difference in starting. Spoke to 2 GG dealer experts and no one mentioned nor is it written down anywhere that the choke only works throttle closed, DOH! Found a thread by Lowbrow mentioning it. Did 3 cold starting cycles and 2 out of 3 were 1st kick. Hot it seems to like no choke and slight crack of the throttle. Though it sounds like all big Gassers need a stand up gorilla kick. A real impressive high compression log jumper. Thanks fellers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jse Posted July 24, 2011 Report Share Posted July 24, 2011 What I can Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waynerobshaw Posted July 25, 2011 Report Share Posted July 25, 2011 If the plug is dry after much kicking, try and lay the bike on it side until the fuel begin to leak from the carb overflows. This should allow some fuel through and it should then kick... I've used this procedure on a few hardstarting GG's with success. I would agree that the carbs are probably at fault, but at least it will give you chance to check if its a fueling issue. Cheers, Wayne. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lian Posted July 27, 2011 Report Share Posted July 27, 2011 Ofcourse full hard kick is required, but first, it is recommended to find point of compression and then kicking. I had same problem and last year have broken kickstart gear because of slamming on a kick...( Couple of months of push-start But another side of succes is right carb setting. So even if i got to know how to start bike from a ground, i usually cant start it when i stall in section - there are times then 1 or 2 kicks not help and i have a 5 from loosing a balance. So i have a question in this way - carb setting, cause i think it provide me problems with 5's after stalling... Often i suffer from engine roughness work - especially after some jumps (bike changes position from horizontal). It is like bogging and going to stall if i will not turn the throttle couple of time and wait, but this is losing of concentration , time and energy. Last year i asked here about it and thought i understand all (mixture bolt setup), but now i clearly do not understand consequences of my changes in carb, i mean, cant undertand the way it work now, cause i thought it will be contrary. So, if i had bogging sound it means mixture was too lean, but my mixture screw was near 90'+45' out to fully closed - not good, needed changes. I decided buy richer pilot jet (to Keihin) and got 48 pilot instead my 45 (or 42, don't remember). So i thought i need to change my mixture screw to about 2 turns out from full in to add more air to new setup and then slightly change to desireble engine sound, but now i need to use (!!) 90' out from full in to engine work without bogging!! I have now more fuel stream but need to almost shut air intake... Foolish! Besides, in this fuel screw position, my exhaust start popping and produce more smoke (like it is too rich), and spark plug is black, but if i turn bolt from 90' from full in to 90+180' (very hot here, it must want more air, but...) - that's all, even on idle bike working like it is going to stall. But with all that signs of rich mixture (popping exhaust, black plug, a lot of smoke) i cant turn mixture screw out to increase oxygene, but it all need to be contrary! Maybe i missed something? PS. i noticed one thing - to may fuel drop, floats need sag too much lower than it need, am i right? (if upside down, they are parallel to base line like it need to be ok). What this pointing to? Only in this position fuel start to drop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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