paxdad Posted January 29, 2011 Report Share Posted January 29, 2011 Bike was running great last night. Shut it off and when restarted it would not rev but just sputter. Pulled plug checked for spark. At times there is no spark and at other time there is spark. i removed the fuel tank and checked spark plug cap/ wire connection. I removed the cap from the wire and replaced to make sure connection was good which it was. It seems as if the kill switch is malfunctioning as after messing around with the wire I got it to run good again however after I started tucking all the wires back in the frame and started it again it was sputtering and would not rev. Hopefully my description is understandable?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tony27 Posted January 29, 2011 Report Share Posted January 29, 2011 Try tucking all the wires away without the kill switch connected if you're using a button instead of the standard switchgear, if the problem is still there then it sounds like you've got a broken wire which makes intermittent contact Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted January 29, 2011 Report Share Posted January 29, 2011 Might try temporary disconnect of the kill switch. Also ck the ground point for the CDI unit is clean and tight. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paxdad Posted January 30, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2011 Ok. I don't think it is the kill switch now as it test good for audible continuity when tested with a multi-meter. I unbolted the CDI and looked for any bad wires etc. and did not see any. The ground to the frame was clean as well. I changed the spark plug cap to a spare NGK resistor type that I had lying around and no difference. As you can imagine now that the spark is weak when it does start the piston top is fuel rich....... Is there way to check the CDI? Any other thoughts like stator going bad??? When you take the kill switch out of the picture does the ground to the frame need to be unplugged or just the spade connector that goes to the CDI? THis sucks as it was running perfect and the weather was near 65F here in Atlanta. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted January 30, 2011 Report Share Posted January 30, 2011 Ok. I don't think it is the kill switch now as it test good for audible continuity when tested with a multi-meter. I unbolted the CDI and looked for any bad wires etc. and did not see any. The ground to the frame was clean as well. I changed the spark plug cap to a spare NGK resistor type that I had lying around and no difference. As you can imagine now that the spark is weak when it does start the piston top is fuel rich....... Is there way to check the CDI? Any other thoughts like stator going bad??? When you take the kill switch out of the picture does the ground to the frame need to be unplugged or just the spade connector that goes to the CDI? THis sucks as it was running perfect and the weather was near 65F here in Atlanta. "When you take the kill switch out of the picture does the ground to the frame need to be unplugged or just the spade connector that goes to the CDI?" Answer, no, it is out of circuit. Unfortunatly, over time I have not really found any common issues here. Specially if intermittant. All seems a bit spotty, and simple resistance tests are too. Long story made short, you need to swap the key components to iosolate this, starting with ehe easiest and cheapest, being the CDI. This requires friends or you gotta call Ryan to see if he will let you try a loaner. Next logigial step would be the stator, all else being eliminated. These can be fixed, but you gotta send them off. Seems Sherco don't just sell it, you gotta buy a whole new unit. But Ryan could have updates on this issue. There are resistance specs on the stator, sketchy, got to look them up or refer you. Get back with what you hear from Ryan, and what he has to say. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tony27 Posted January 30, 2011 Report Share Posted January 30, 2011 Last stator I got was separate, sherco must have finally wised up. Lots of the english places advertise just the stator now Stator specs are on splatshops site & posted quite a few times up here if you do a bit of searching Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paxdad Posted January 30, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2011 Thanks for the replies. I have spark but very weak. The cylinder is now fuel rich from the weak/ intermitent spark so starting is now out of the question. Definately not the kill switch though. I will call Ryan tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paxdad Posted February 4, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2011 Thanks for the replies. I have spark but very weak. The cylinder is now fuel rich from the weak/ intermitent spark so starting is now out of the question. Definately not the kill switch though. I will call Ryan tomorrow. After talking with Ryan Young he indicated that it is probably not a spark issue but carb related. I have a new float needle and seat on the way. One intresting thing Ryan indicated is that the spark is usually/ sometimes so weak it is hard to see on the Sherco. I will update once I have the new parts installed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted February 6, 2011 Report Share Posted February 6, 2011 After talking with Ryan Young he indicated that it is probably not a spark issue but carb related. I have a new float needle and seat on the way. One intresting thing Ryan indicated is that the spark is usually/ sometimes so weak it is hard to see on the Sherco. I will update once I have the new parts installed. Good points, not being there it is too hard to say. See what happens and let us know! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paxdad Posted February 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2011 Good points, not being there it is too hard to say. See what happens and let us know! I was watching one of the TTC training videos "hopping" and I picked up on something the guy stated on the video where he is teaching/ showing how to hop the front wheel. He clearly states "be sure to turn off the gas to prevent from filling the motor with fuel." Keep in mind he is hopping with the motor off. If I now recall back to the two events when my 125 has crapped out it was following activity where my son and I were practicing either with the motor off or on. So if my needle is worn and fuel is continously leaking by the seat this makes sense. This is my first trials bike so I am learning as I go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tony27 Posted February 7, 2011 Report Share Posted February 7, 2011 The reason for turning off the fuel would be the possibility that the up & down motion could cause the floats to move towards the bottom of the bowl & cause the float valve to open leading to the engine flooding. Or I could be completely wrong Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paxdad Posted February 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2011 Update: I received the new needle and seat from RYP along with a new gasket kit for the PHBL(BS)26. Installed and started bike. Bike started with a high idle and would not adjust out with the idle screw. Note: Idle screw had no effect on bike. Turned off bike and checked for obvious air leaks etc. but none found. Started bike back up and proceeded to check electrical connections. I messed around with the yellow wire from fan radiator hose sensor and all of a sudden bike would idle normal. Checked all connections and appeared good. Adjusted idle screw and bike was running great on the stand. Turned bike off went in and ate lunch, came back out started bike again and it would only idle roughly with signs of running rich by looking at the exhaust emission. When you go to feed it fuel it will not rev and only sounds like it is getting intermitent spark. When you feed it fuel it sounds like blub, blub, blub. Hopefully you get what I mean..... I checked all the wire for continuity and they appear good along with the connections. Kill switch is fine as bike will run with out it connected. Stumped!!!!! Additional thoughts???? What is the proper float level adjustment? I think that it is level when the seat is fully closed correct but if not would this cause the bike to run rich immediately off idle? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted February 15, 2011 Report Share Posted February 15, 2011 Update: I received the new needle and seat from RYP along with a new gasket kit for the PHBL(BS)26. Installed and started bike. Bike started with a high idle and would not adjust out with the idle screw. Note: Idle screw had no effect on bike. Turned off bike and checked for obvious air leaks etc. but none found. Started bike back up and proceeded to check electrical connections. I messed around with the yellow wire from fan radiator hose sensor and all of a sudden bike would idle normal. Checked all connections and appeared good. Adjusted idle screw and bike was running great on the stand. Turned bike off went in and ate lunch, came back out started bike again and it would only idle roughly with signs of running rich by looking at the exhaust emission. When you go to feed it fuel it will not rev and only sounds like it is getting intermitent spark. When you feed it fuel it sounds like blub, blub, blub. Hopefully you get what I mean..... I checked all the wire for continuity and they appear good along with the connections. Kill switch is fine as bike will run with out it connected. Stumped!!!!! Additional thoughts???? What is the proper float level adjustment? I think that it is level when the seat is fully closed correct but if not would this cause the bike to run rich immediately off idle? Jeez man, you got any UFO's flying around your house? Too much wierd stuff going on. Firstly, high idle-- I think it likely the cable was slightly out of position where it goes into the adjuster at top of carb and under boot where you cannot see it. Proximity of wiggling anything can correct this, or just vibration. Lesson here, be sure you audibly hear slide "hit home" before starting(after messing with stuff). Second-- Float arm should be parallel with carb body when disassembled and inverted. There is a measure to this, 19.5mm or so as i recall, but PARALLEL is the base. .5mm dont change much here. With the change in running after what we may call a "heat soak" here if the bike transferring more heat into the stator assy. after some run time, I am thinking that direction for ignition problem, yet it seems there is no absolute pattern to these things. You can try ohming these things out, but the spect don't tell everything and we have no way to functionally test them in the field other than swapping compenents, CDI being cheapest and easiest, then proceed to other.... gotta love electronics! Chris has some specs on the Splatshop UK website, so does Steve at UK Motoplat. I am sure Ryan will understand the situ and help you as much as possible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paxdad Posted February 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2011 Update: Talked with RYP. New coil on its way. Will post again once installed. Fingers crossed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paxdad Posted February 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2011 (edited) Update: Received the new coil from RYP and installed accordingly. Same symptoms.... Talked to RYP today and need to verify if flywheel key has sheared or not. Wouldn't you know it my puller is at my buds shop. RYP was very generous to offer a refund on the coil since that was not the problem. I am going to keep it as having a spare is not a bad idea. I did test the stator per the SplatShop instructions and all the test show my stator to be good. The readings were on the low side of what SplatShop has posted but they were all within range. The other thing I have noticed is that the bike starts with an obvious kick back whereas when it was running good I did not notice this.....more to follow. Edited February 21, 2011 by Paxdad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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