manwithtool Posted January 30, 2011 Report Share Posted January 30, 2011 I have a few issues with my bike...any help with any of them welcome. What engine oil to use ? I'm guessing anything 20/50w ? GTX although I see GTX is now 10/40w When I went to drain the primary chaincase it had nothing in it....I have had to remove the casing (see next question) and it has electronic ignition...Is this the reason it has no oil...can the chain and clutch be used like this ? Having watched the newly replaced gearbox oil trickle out of the final drive sprocket bearing it seems this is knackered along with the seal. I've managed to reach the bearing via the clutch side, but how do you pull the bearing out....Or do I have to remove the gearbox and push it out from that side. Also when I was changing the primary drive oil, I noticed the cover plate/screw thing that goes over the clutch adjuster has a hole in it where the clutch adjuster has been hitting it when the clutch is disengaged....Any idea why this is happening...push rod too long maybe ? Any advice, guidance, hints and tips welcome... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cvgmmartin Posted February 2, 2011 Report Share Posted February 2, 2011 You can get answers to most questions on Triumphs if you Google www.classicbikes.biz It has manuals, maintenance info, and parts diagrams for a number of different engines. Other than part numbers, there isn't much difference between 3TAs and the 500cc engines. The manual will tell you 20/50 oil for engine and primary chaincase although some people use ATF oil for the primary. To get the bearing out you will have to get at it from the inside of the gearbox. I think there is a circlip holding it in place but the manual in the above. regards Martin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
manwithtool Posted February 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2011 Thanks for that. I need a bit more help. I had the gearbox out to replace the bearing. All went well, but a small bit of metal fell off the gearbox as I was carefully holding it and cleaning it. It's about 4m long and seems to be the exact diameter of the clutch push rod. There is no sign of anything like this on the parts manual. Could this be an extension bit to the clutch push rod to disengage the clutch a little more. This might explain why the clutch adjusterscrew on the clutch side is hitting the cover screw and has acually put a hole in it. It doesn;t seem long enough to stay in place ? but I guess the clutch rod only moves 2-3mm ?? Anyone got any clue ? I want to put it all back together but don't want to have to take all the primary side off again if this thing should be in the gearbox. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cvgmmartin Posted February 9, 2011 Report Share Posted February 9, 2011 It sounds like one of the clutch roller bearings. The clutch is mounted on a set of loose roller bearings which have to be assembled onto the clutch hub. It is not a caged bearing as you might expect. If you take the clutch plates and the centre hub off then you can see these rollers and you can tell if one is missing. The manual should tell you how many you need (20 I believe is the correct number). You can usually replace a roller using a pair of tweezers without taking the whole clutch apart. If you look at the exploded view of the clutch in the parts manual, the roller is item 4 and the centre hub is item 6. Hope this helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
manwithtool Posted February 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2011 It sounds like one of the clutch roller bearings. The clutch is mounted on a set of loose roller bearings which have to be assembled onto the clutch hub. It is not a caged bearing as you might expect. If you take the clutch plates and the centre hub off then you can see these rollers and you can tell if one is missing. The manual should tell you how many you need (20 I believe is the correct number). You can usually replace a roller using a pair of tweezers without taking the whole clutch apart. If you look at the exploded view of the clutch in the parts manual, the roller is item 4 and the centre hub is item 6. Hope this helps. Cheers for that, CVGMartin, but it's definitely not a clutch roller....this thing is only half the size of a clutch roller. I put it all back together tonight and the clutch doesn't work...this little thing fell out of the clutch tube..so I'll pop it in again and see if it works. By the way the clutch rod is exactly 5" long...should it be longer? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cvgmmartin Posted February 10, 2011 Report Share Posted February 10, 2011 I didn't read your first comment closely enough, you did say it was the same diameter as the rod so it couldn't have been clutch roller. Your comment said it was 4m long but I assume you meant 4mm. Have you owned this motor from new or did you get it second hand. It sounds most likely that somebody put it in as an extension to the rod for some reason. My engine is in the process of being rebuilt so I will measure the rod tonight and let you know. I don't think there is any difference between the 500 and 350. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cvgmmartin Posted February 10, 2011 Report Share Posted February 10, 2011 There is a brass thrust washer on the lower gearbox shaft that goes against the needle roller brg and a small peg is used to stop this washer from rotating. This sounds more likely to be the piece of metal. regards Martin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cvgmmartin Posted February 11, 2011 Report Share Posted February 11, 2011 You said your clutch rod was 5 inches long! the rod on my 500 is 9 1/2 inches long and I would expect the 3TA to be the same, also the rod sticks out about 5/16 inch out of the mainshaft at the clutch end. If your rod is 5 inches long then I would expect there to be another 4 1/2 inches still in the main shaft. A long rod can have a tendancy to bend when the clutch is actuated and this results in a heavy clutch action due to friction between the rod and the bore of the mainshaft. Some people cut the rod in half and put a ball bearing (same dia as the rod) between the 2 pieces, the shorter rods don't bend so easily and therefore there should be less friction and hence give a lighter clutch action. regards Martin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
manwithtool Posted February 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2011 You said your clutch rod was 5 inches long! the rod on my 500 is 9 1/2 inches long and I would expect the 3TA to be the same, also the rod sticks out about 5/16 inch out of the mainshaft at the clutch end. If your rod is 5 inches long then I would expect there to be another 4 1/2 inches still in the main shaft. A long rod can have a tendancy to bend when the clutch is actuated and this results in a heavy clutch action due to friction between the rod and the bore of the mainshaft. Some people cut the rod in half and put a ball bearing (same dia as the rod) between the 2 pieces, the shorter rods don't bend so easily and therefore there should be less friction and hence give a lighter clutch action. regards Martin Yes you got the answer right....Noi idea how I managed to miss the fact that the gearbox shaft is 9" long and the rod I measured was only 5".....As you say this little bit was a spacer between the two rods. Clutch didn;t work without it...but worked fine with it in place. I have read that some people fit an extra clutch plate, so the spacer might be needed....Next time I have the clutch off I'll count the plates ! Thanks for the help...its all back together and running fine now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.