chewy Posted April 12, 2011 Report Share Posted April 12, 2011 Getting the fuel in with a funnel needs a lot of hands I found a fizzy drink bottle (Badiot french sparkling water) is petrol proof and screws into the tank thread. I did hear that you need to check the clearance of the back brake fluid resevoir (good cleareance from the silencer) else it can melt....and this is from memory of a mates bike the rad is secured by a cable tie ...the clearance of the bottom yoke to it is zero so don't tie it too tight. I made some top hats to move the rad back 5mm on my 2011 thus overcoming the problem...touch wood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nigel dabster Posted April 12, 2011 Report Share Posted April 12, 2011 Getting the fuel in with a funnel needs a lot of hands I found a fizzy drink bottle (Badiot french sparkling water) is petrol proof and screws into the tank thread. I did hear that you need to check the clearance of the back brake fluid resevoir (good cleareance from the silencer) else it can melt....and this is from memory of a mates bike the rad is secured by a cable tie ...the clearance of the bottom yoke to it is zero so don't tie it too tight. I made some top hats to move the rad back 5mm on my 2011 thus overcoming the problem...touch wood. I made a plate for the bottom rad fixing and elongated the top to drop it clear of the yoke, made smaller frame gaurds gives an extra bit on the lock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
merseamudboy Posted April 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 15, 2011 As a total and 'matur'e newcomer I had my 1st training day yesterday with my club and had a great time and learnt a lot. General feedback on the bike was that it was quite 'soft' but with plenty of go when needed - ideal. A couple of experienced riders said the gearing was a bit tall. This seemed right to me as clutch out rocky stream beds seemed a bit 'scary' due to the bikes pace in 1st gear. I also stalled it more than once. I'm planning on fitting a 9 tooth gearbox sprocket although some have suggested going for changing the rear sprocket. What'll be best do you think? I could I suppose fit a Renthal rear if only for the bling factor. I've plans to replace the light switch and I've got the wiring harnesses incoming. Is it possible to remove the old switch without removing the grip (that's a new glued on Domino)? I've tried and failed to do this already. Finally, I hear recommendations for changing the jets. The bike is a standard 2010 and is (was) new old stock. What changes are recommended here and what are the benefits? What should I be taking with me in the van? I'm thinking puncture repair here and tools. I know there's a whole host of expertise on here and would value your comments Peter Well, in the form of an update, the Sherco has been well fettled. I've: Removed the wiring harness and fitted a 'racing' loom and kill switch Repaired a front puncture Fitted a V-Mar protector Fitted a number board Lubed the rear linkage trimmed the fuel tank breather fitted 2nd hand frame and tank protectors fitted a slow throttle tube and Domino grips (blue/white) fitted an inline fuel filter changed idle jet from 30 to 33, fitted a 250 float jet and adjusted the float tangs to parallel I bought a 44t rear sprocket but the chain isn't long enough to accommodate it. Can anyone help me with a recommended starting point for the mixture screw. I'm struggling to get it to a noticeable 'hunt' position to turn it back a little. The bike is running well and is now much stronger and less likely to stall from low revs. Now to learn to ride it a lot better Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted April 16, 2011 Report Share Posted April 16, 2011 (edited) Urm, I think if you are bound to try the 44 rear you will likely need a half link kit om the chain to extend it. These are(or were) available for the stock Regina chains. As far as the carb goes, I figure on a 33 pilot you are still going to be in the 3-3.5 out range on the mix screw. This "hunt" position thing has more to do with how it settles back to a normal idle after revved than anything. Slow to come down means too lean and back it out a bit more. Other method would be a quick wick of the throttle off idle to ck for momentary bog. Too much bog and you have gone in too far and need to back the fuel screw out to richen things a bit with more fuel off idle. Seems Baldilocks is on well with the 36 pilot at 2.5 turns out, yet things vary bike to bike and you must be the judge. Edited April 16, 2011 by copemech Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
merseamudboy Posted April 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2011 Urm, I think if you are bound to try the 44 rear you will likely need a half link kit om the chain to extend it. These are(or were) available for the stock Regina chains. As far as the carb goes, I figure on a 33 pilot you are still going to be in the 3-3.5 out range on the mix screw. This "hunt" position thing has more to do with how it settles back to a normal idle after revved than anything. Slow to come down means too lean and back it out a bit more. Other method would be a quick wick of the throttle off idle to ck for momentary bog. Too much bog and you have gone in too far and need to back the fuel screw out to richen things a bit with more fuel off idle. Seems Baldilocks is on well with the 36 pilot at 2.5 turns out, yet things vary bike to bike and you must be the judge. Many thanks to you Sir and the others who have helped. It's been a learning curve and great fun too. Peter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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