gilbertdave Posted August 8, 2011 Report Share Posted August 8, 2011 Well, at least I'm getting plenty of excuses to learn to maintain my bike. After riding for an hour or so on Saturday, I decide to fall in the mud for a little while. Having picked myself up and scraped the mud out of various parts of the bike, I was ready to head off again and CRUNCH... the kick start broke. Now, I'm not a very lucky man... so naturally, this took place at literally the furthest corner of the woods. So, I pushed the bike up the tallest hill I could managed and bump started. Apparently the throttle was jammed too... good times . I managed quite quickly to resolve the throttle issue after a long ish stroll back to the car for some tools. But, once the throttle was freed up (and the throttle sticking is a problem of its own), I tried to bump it again with no avail... After about 40mins I gave up and pushed it back to the car... This took me another 40mins! I have never sweated so much in my life! I learned a life lesson though... My initial plan was to work on the bike Saturday morning as the rear brake is dragging slightly... But, I woke up and the weather was ok and thought, sod it, I'll go ride and fix it tomorrow. You can all imagine how happy I was with that decision as I was pushing the bike up hill for what felt like a lifetime! So, it was over to visit the font of knowledge (or Dad as he is more commonly known) and we set about establishing the problem. Water drained (no problem), oil drained (it's a bit cloudy after three rides... will come back to this later). Dismantled the clutch cover and no obvious signs of a problem. I was kind of hoping to see a broken spring or something. Now, to get the clutch off, I sat with greasy palms thumb through the internet on my IPad and read lots of advice on how to get the clutch off, but we couldn't do it. So, we made a tool. How many people are lucjy enough to have a Dad with a lathe and milling machine in the garage! ha ha... The retaining nut on the clutch was mega tight, but it did come off nicely in the end. I was soon obvious that the "sharks teeth" on the kick start mechanism are worn right out. I suspect lazy kick starting technique is at fault here. So.... questions: - Does any body know where I can get a cheap (possibly used) kickstart pawl? I think I only need the part with the tab on it... I've a quick look online and it looks like expensive parts -Does anybody know what torque the central clutch retaining nut needs to be tightened too? -Can anybody confirm whether ATF oil goes a bit creamy under normal use or is it definitely water? Its not discoloured really but the texture is creamier than it went in! If its a problem where to start? o rings, water pump seals, gaskets etc? Thanks in advance and I'll keep you posted with progress... I got dark this evening so we stopped whilst we were ahead! Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gilbertdave Posted August 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 8, 2011 Pics of the home made tool as we were rather proud of it... In manufacture with Dad looking most professional (and for the H&S eagles amongst us, those glasses are safety spec) Offered upto the bike. It was a really nice snug fit and the lever (which fits in the hole visible at the top) is a 3/8" drive extension, which always lives in my tool bag. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pumpkin trials Posted August 8, 2011 Report Share Posted August 8, 2011 Creamy oil equals seal issue on water pump shaft, best to replace shaft and seals at the same time as the shaft wears and then rips new seals when you put them in chuck the centre bolt (small allen head) for the basket. When the cover is back on the piston holds the fingers in and the basket cant come out or off, did this a while back to an 06. given that the bike was dumped in mud you might have slipped the ignition a bit, again i broke 3 kickstarts and it turned out the issue was the bike was firing just shy of correct band the bike was kickin back like a mad mule and causing the breakages also would suggest giving Kev at GasGasUK a bell, if he doesnt know what the problem is no one will Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trialtrial Posted August 9, 2011 Report Share Posted August 9, 2011 Its hard to see the emblem on the mag wheel in your Dad's shop - is that a little horsey rearing up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gilbertdave Posted August 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 9, 2011 Thanks for the advice Mr Pumpkin Trials... I think I will do the water pump seals and shaft. I'd rather be sure than keep messing around with it. In terms of the timing, I think it shouldn't be an issue. I feel fairly confident I caused the issue by stomping on the kick start after feeling slightly miffed at having just dumped myself off the bike. When its rebuilt, I will treat it with cuation! and Trial Trial... it might be a little horsey yes. Alas, its gearbox is in bits at the moment too! Maybe its the mechanics not the machinery! ha ha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smalley250 Posted August 9, 2011 Report Share Posted August 9, 2011 I can see the problem from the picture. I beliveve your GasGas is a pre 07 model, so you need to sell the RED thing in the back ground and buy a newer Gasser Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mecajental Posted August 9, 2011 Report Share Posted August 9, 2011 (edited) Hi gilbertdave. I can't understand how the tool you made works. I made my own tool too: Regards. Edited August 9, 2011 by mecajental Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ham2 Posted August 9, 2011 Report Share Posted August 9, 2011 Is that a 355 in the background?...sod the bike..go play with the Ferrari Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pumpkin trials Posted August 9, 2011 Report Share Posted August 9, 2011 One more piece of advice, be very careful in aligning the impeller shaft with the drive gear. It is important to get the bar into the slot correctly or you could snap the bar and need a new shaft or not get the two faces of the crankcase and the clutch cover sealed and forever suffer leaks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gilbertdave Posted August 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 9, 2011 Alas, the red thing in the back ground isn't mine... Besides, I don't think they do a tow bar for it? ha ha... The tool we made sat over the studs and held it in place that way. It worked very nicely and will be kept in my kit for ever more. I have just ordered new gaskets, water pump seal and shaft kit and a pair of kick start gears (pinion kickstart and kickstart pawl - according to the parts list). Can't wait to find out how cheap that will be ! (insert sarcasm here) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gilbertdave Posted August 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 9, 2011 Seeing as my bits and pieces aren't due for a couple of days, I went back to the old mans to address some of the other issues. As I mentioned above, the throttle jammed after I picked up the bike. Its not the first times its happened and so far I've been able to stop it quickly, thus saving it from melting itself! The screws to the airbox were stuck and as a result I'd "kind of" not done anything about the air filter... hence tonights job. So, we took the plastics right off and pulled out the entire airbox. Poor old bike. Naked and trying to cover its modesty with an oily rag! We seperated the side cover from the airbox after some minor effort. The screws were seized into the bar the runs across the airbox. Having opened it up it was immediately clear where the problems were. It was full of mud (I'm talking bit chunks of mud), grit and grime. We cleaned it all up, soaped it down and cleared out all the gunge. We managed to identify some cracks courtesy of over tightening. These were sealed up with some araldite to keep the grime out. The filter was cleaned and reoiled and put back in place. I'll see how that looks after a few weeks and it may end up getting replaced. I also took the opportunity to get the carb right out and see whether there was any evidence as to why the throttle was sticking... Can you see any evidence? I can.... lots of it! It was disgusting! So, I gave it a thorough cleaning and hopefully, that will be the end of my sticking throttle. I'd also notice the power take up was gettign slower... the engine seemed lazier somhow? I can convince myself that would be caused by the amount of filth passing into the carb. Anyway... Tomorrow is a down day as I have togo visit the chiropractor in the evening.. but hopefully the day after will be filled with refitting the kickstart components, along with a pleasant surpise that they were remarkably cheap! Here's hoping. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gasser_david Posted August 9, 2011 Report Share Posted August 9, 2011 What's all the black stuff in the carb throat...mud?? grit?? bits of disintegrating air filter element. If mud/grit.... then think your next problem will no doubt be mains or crank bearing failure at some point in future. Have you checked that carb to air box rubber OK .. as hard to see that amount of debris passing through air filter element unless that's split or full of holes or not seated properly. Nice 'thinking outside the box' clutch holding device design. david Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gilbertdave Posted August 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 10, 2011 The black stuff is oily. dusty scum! The air filter was correctly fitted and intact, but it was totally dry. The airbox iteself had a number of small cracks which we have now packed and sealed. The largest of these would easily have been big enough to draw in dusty air on dry days and without a doubt, water. The carb to air box rubber was equally disgusting, so I'm sure the issue is coming from the cracks in the airbox and the fact the filter was dry. It is now all sealed and the filter is re oiled. Having had the carb out completely, I took opportunity to stick a finger into the carb to head rubber mount and that was actually remarkably clean. Can't really explain why as I can't see why all that gunk wouldn't have been drawn in? In terms of the mains or crank bearings, what should I be looking for to identify bad signs of wear. Can you identify wear by listening to the bike running or do you have to open the engine and wiggle bits? My ethos is, I'd rather fix it now and have an old bike where all the wearable parts are renewed. Stitch in time and all that old cobblers! I also live in the hope that by doing the right things now and disturbing the amount of time I can actually ride 9not to mention destroying my wallet), I'm hoping that once its all done, the bike will reward me with hours on end of trouble free riding! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mecajental Posted August 10, 2011 Report Share Posted August 10, 2011 The tool we made sat over the studs and held it in place that way. It worked very nicely and will be kept in my kit for ever more. Sorry for my insistence, but I think It's not a good idea to apply torque over the studs because they can break easily. Saludos Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jse Posted August 10, 2011 Report Share Posted August 10, 2011 Having had the carb out completely, I took opportunity to stick a finger into the carb to head rubber mount and that was actually remarkably clean. Can't really explain why as I can't see why all that gunk wouldn't have been drawn in? Unfortunately, it was. Fuel droplets have washed the grit in the throat of the carb into the engine. Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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