swooshdave Posted August 20, 2011 Report Share Posted August 20, 2011 NAPA # 7-01338 Condenser, I think it's for a lawn mower. Cheap and should be readily available. The 625 will work, but get the spark going first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lorenzo Posted August 22, 2011 Report Share Posted August 22, 2011 Hi, Jeff - Nice looking bike ! Regarding your earlier questions, it's a model 92; first of the 325's and known as a T350. Fenders are certainly Bultaco OEM style, but on a bike of its age highly unlikely to be originals, unless it's never been ridden in the dirt! Amal 625 is the correct original carb for this bike and standard settings were :- Main jet 150 Pilot jet 20 Needle jet 106 Slide #3 Have you managed to get a spark yet ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kutter Posted August 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2011 Hi, Jeff - Nice looking bike ! Regarding your earlier questions, it's a model 92; first of the 325's and known as a T350. Fenders are certainly Bultaco OEM style, but on a bike of its age highly unlikely to be originals, unless it's never been ridden in the dirt! Amal 625 is the correct original carb for this bike and standard settings were :- Main jet 150 Pilot jet 20 Needle jet 106 Slide #3 Have you managed to get a spark yet ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kutter Posted August 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2011 Thanks everybody. I really appreciate it. Still no spark or not much of one anyway. I finally got a book so I can run some electrical tests on it. I have a new condenser but I haven't had time to put it on yet. I'm sure it wont be that simple. As I mentioned earlier there's not a big fat blue spark. I do get a shock though. It really a bummer to see it sitting there... dead. And supposedly "completely" restored. Thanks for the carb and fender answers, ...all the answers for that matter. I think I'll dress it in plastic fenders for its summer guise. Or maybe those aftermarket aluminum ones. If I cant get it started soon I'll have to hang it on the wall. Thanks again, Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swooshdave Posted August 23, 2011 Report Share Posted August 23, 2011 If you don't have you will need a flywheel puller. They aren't much but they make your life easier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kutter Posted October 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2011 Hi all Thanks for all your input and help. I finally got all the electrical replaced. I guessing it was the low tension coil. It fired on the first kick. Unfortunately the restorer didnt have the right throttle cable on it so the slide was 3/4 open so I quickly shut her down. I fixed the cable and ultrasonic cleaned the carb. It seems to now have a weird condition. Quite similar to the weak (quite) kick mentioned in the post below... But its about 90% of the time. Injecting gas directly into the carb and or in the head still doesn't bring it to life. It feels like it has compression every 10 kick or so. I've had 2 strokes for over 30 years and I've never felt a kick starter feel like this. The spring and visible parts seem to be ok, although it feels like I could spin the kick starter way past the footpeg. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Regards, Jeff www.customknives.net http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/37769-kickstart-hitting-foot-peg/page__p__279166__hl__%2Bkick+%2Bstarter__fromsearch__1#entry279166 View PostCMC84, on 04 September 2011 - 01:33 PM, said: Fitted my kickstart return spring today, and proceeded to start the bike. Fired up after a few kicks, but I kept hitting the footpeg with my heel despite trying a few locations for the kickstart lever. I've got it mounted so that it starts to turn the engine at 12 o'clock, but it seems to want to continue past the footpeg (at about 4 o'clock) down to almost vertically down. Is this normal? Are my feet just too big, or it it just my technique? Also, it seemed like when I was turning it over, I would get one good kick which was turning the engine, then one "quiet" kick - is it the case that I'm kicking it through the expansion part of the stroke every other kick? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
motovita Posted October 9, 2011 Report Share Posted October 9, 2011 (edited) Remember that you don't have primary kickstart. You may be feeling the clutch slipping. Edited October 9, 2011 by motovita Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pedronicman Posted October 9, 2011 Report Share Posted October 9, 2011 Carb should be a 627 - typo? Gear selector mechanism can be looked at by removing the clutch cover and removed without having to remove the clutch. Only 3 screws hold it in place. Check that the spring is fitted correctly or not broken. It'll be obvious when you check it. Lever position is up to you but angled up is better to help avoid it catching. Vertical would be a bit extreme for me... Best drain off old oil and start with new. Clutch 300cc of ATF (ok as plates are all steel) Gearbox takes 600cc and normal Silkolene light gear oil will be fine, or other equivalent. The engine will be pretty much the same as your old Alpina and if the Alpina was an early one, they are pretty much the same bike, different gearing, big tank and seat. clutch ATF oil should be 250cc not 300 , Gear box oil should be 500cc. Only the 1st 325 (92 moodel) and 2nd 325 (125 model) had AMAL mk1 carbs , after that all 325's were fitted with Bing as std You do need to set the timing correctly , ALL sherpas had different timing to one another , no manual will tell you the correct timing other than the original 91/92 owners manual , or email bultaco uk. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kutter Posted October 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2011 Thanks guys. Again, please pardon my ignorance. I guess I never thought about what the old kick starter shaft was connected to. I reckoned it went to the crank in some fashion, directly. I've looked at the exploded drawings. Am I to understand the shaft connects to the clutch there by connecting to the crank via the chain? So a mis-adjusted clutch slips resulting in the crank not getting all the motion required? Thanks for the update on the oil and amounts. ... and timing. Do you think there's a hint in Bultacos changing to a Bing? Sooner or later I'll get this thing going. Thanks again, Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
motovita Posted October 10, 2011 Report Share Posted October 10, 2011 Thanks guys. Again, please pardon my ignorance. I guess I never thought about what the old kick starter shaft was connected to. I reckoned it went to the crank in some fashion, directly. I've looked at the exploded drawings. Am I to understand the shaft connects to the clutch there by connecting to the crank via the chain? So a mis-adjusted clutch slips resulting in the crank not getting all the motion required? Thanks for the update on the oil and amounts. ... and timing. Do you think there's a hint in Bultacos changing to a Bing? Sooner or later I'll get this thing going. Thanks again, Jeff If you pull in the clutch lever and push the kick lever you will see that the kick lever definitely transmits through the clutch. Sure there are better carbs than old Amals (or Bings) but if your carb is in serviceable condition there's no reason not to use it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woody Posted October 10, 2011 Report Share Posted October 10, 2011 The Bultos, particularly the bigger engine, can slip the clutch when kickstarting. It's not unusual and doesn't mean your clutch is incorrectly adjusted. The kickstart drives onto the gearbox mainshaft, so it has to go through the clutch to turn the crank. Pull the clutch in, it won't drive the crank. The thing to do is not thrash at the kickstart. Just bring it back until it engages the ratchet, which, if your kickstart is fitted at the right angle, should be somewhere around the vertical position. If necssary pull the clutch in and position it where you feel more comfortable with it. Then, on the bite point, push hard, don't 'kick' at it. Thrashing at it is more likely to make the clutch slip than bite. Although they can slip on the kickstart, it shouldn't slip under engine power. If it does it is incorrectly adjusted (or worn) WARNING - when bringing the kickstart back to engage the ratchet, it isn't unknown for the slightest movement of the piston to fire and kick back which, if you're unlucky can put your knee into the bars or the kickstart up the back of your leg. Don't kick it with shoes or pumps on unless you are used to their behaviour.... The MK1 Amal, if it isn't eworn, will work perfectly well on the Sherpa, so if it isn't worn out, use it. My old M92, which I no longer own, has been running on a 26mm MK1 for years and it runs faultlessly, pulls like a train and revs out well. Yes there are better csrbs, but I'd only fit one if the Amal is now past servicing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nigel dabster Posted October 10, 2011 Report Share Posted October 10, 2011 WARNING - when bringing the kickstart back to engage the ratchet, it isn't unknown for the slightest movement of the piston to fire and kick back which, if you're unlucky can put your knee into the bars or the kickstart up the back of your leg. Don't kick it with shoes or pumps on unless you are used to their behaviour.... which is why its a good idea to swap the perches left to right Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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