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scorpatic

Ossa TR 280i hard to start

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I still say a lot of the starting woes are down to operator error :blush: My mate had a 2011 I had the 2012 his bike was hard to start mine not, swap bikes his starts ok mine does not :wall:

You do have to get on the pegs and give a good kick even with the 9v and absolutley no throttle at all.

Now the gear box :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall:

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Always had an easy time starting it after the first day. 2 kicks when cold, first when hot but it would never idle for more than about 20 seconds... A bit annoying when fiddling with the gps (or taking a strategic step-off!)

I fixed it with the application of "bladdah" to the screw that YOU MUST NOT FIDDLE WITH. Aka the idling screw that stops the butterfly valve.

Obviously it's rigged up to something electric so not for the likes of me.... I tried with various thicknesses of duct tape and now have used a small strip of old inner tube to act as a spacer, holding the valve slightly off fully closed. Why it's called "bladdah" in Swahili slang I don't know....... It now idles perfectly but surprised me badly by starting on the first Kick when cold!

Otherwise runs just the same and doesn't use any more petrol.

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I had my dealer set my bike up on the computer with the correct TPS voltage but with a 1600 rpm tickover instead of the 1400 rpm tickover the factory suggests, it ran great and started great maybe the higher tickover is a big help to starting ?

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the recommendation from the factory is 1500 rpm average tick over for the current maps. Always adjust and set the tps to .6v. cheers

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I had starting Troubles and gearbox trouble with my bike when i first bought it, took some time but my dealer got my gearbox fixed up and the 9v system cleared up my starting troubles. Im having major issues with my clutch dragging though , its dragged since day one and it can make life quite difficult when you dont want it to be.

My main reservoir was leaking when i got the bike but my dealer replaced it.

Has anybody else had this issue? What was the problem and howd you remedy it.

2013 Ossa280i

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From new I only had clutch drag from cold, but I got rid of that by changing to GRO 75w oil :D its not the cheapest but in my opinion its the best.

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From new I only had clutch drag from cold, but I got rid of that by changing to GRO 75w oil :D its not the cheapest but in my opinion its the best.

Definitely run the GRO 75w. We tested a few different oils and it was definitely the best. You still get a little cold drag but its gone once the bike is warm.

Ossaman26 - have you played with the clutch lever adjustment to cure your drag? Also I presume your oil is fresh, once the oil gets a bit old in our bikes we find the clutch will start to drag. You need to do the first 3-4 oil changes every maybe 5hrs, after that the oil stays heaps cleaner and you can stretch out the intervals more if you wish.

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Hey Deon, where do you get your GRO 75w from, I am having a little difficulty finding it here in Oz? Btw, have just come home after working away for ten days and the Ossa started 4th kick instead of 4 hours, lol. The 9v set up is well worth it.

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Hi "old ozzie"

I have a 2012 thats dragged the clutch since new,has 34hrs on it now and still has what I think "considerable clutch drag",I am running GRO 75wt,have also bled the clutch. If I take all the freeplay out of the lever and have everthing adjusted right up its not to bad,not great but and really very "on/off"as well ! A mate runs Nulon 75wt transmission oil in his Ossa (AVAILABLE AT "SUPERCHEAP") comes in a litre bottle and is a lot cheaper than GRO which can be hard to find at times. Not sure what to do with mine,has been changed several times,I will buy some Nulon next and give that a shot.

I am running a 12 volt "start system" on mine,just a NMH battery pack which is available for under $10 on ebay plus a switch,they can be a ******* without them as you have seen on the forum.

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Hi "old ozzie"

I have a 2012 thats dragged the clutch since new,has 34hrs on it now and still has what I think "considerable clutch drag",I am running GRO 75wt,have also bled the clutch. If I take all the freeplay out of the lever and have everthing adjusted right up its not to bad,not great but and really very "on/off"as well ! A mate runs Nulon 75wt transmission oil in his Ossa (AVAILABLE AT "SUPERCHEAP") comes in a litre bottle and is a lot cheaper than GRO which can be hard to find at times. Not sure what to do with mine,has been changed several times,I will buy some Nulon next and give that a shot.

I am running a 12 volt "start system" on mine,just a NMH battery pack which is available for under $10 on ebay plus a switch,they can be a ******* without them as you have seen on the forum.

I started a thread a few months back on the clutch drag as I had the same issue, really frustrating when riding. My solution was the 75w oil (castrol as we don't have a GRO importer in Sweden) together with the famous "beta clutch fix" modd on a new 2013 clutch pack. Don't know which change that cured my clutch as I did all mods at once but the result is fantastic, NO drag and great clutch bite. I used to have an issue with the clutch feel, it felt like the clutch engaged slightly different and at different points at times. Apparently the 2013 clutch pack has a different clutch material and is slightly thinner than the previous versions, which I also noted during the shift of packs. The only "negative" is a slight clutch rattle when clutch not engaged standing still.

For me this modd was the last piece of the pussle, the Ossa is for me the ultimate Trials bike at the moment - I absolutely love every bit of it, engine response, grip, handling and balance.

( see the beta thread for the beta fix... )

Edited by kbtrials

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kbtrials how hard of a job is it to fit the 2013 clutch ?

jsp

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kbtrials how hard of a job is it to fit the 2013 clutch ?

jsp

Very simple, Ossa Canada has instructions on PDF - very helpful. Especially fitting the cover and kick starter back on.... Which was really the only tricky part, after I read instructions it just happen to go much smoother....

Some pointers though;

If the little plastic/rubber stop for the kick starter falls from its position and behind the clutch basket you do not need to disassemble the clutch, use a vacuum cleaner with a straw attached to the hose. Bend it behind the clutch and pick the rubber pin up (lost it behind there twice when fiddling to get the kick just right in place, before reading the Canadian manual.... )

Take caution with the final ring holding the "butterfly springs"( don't know what they are called in English so bare with me...) the screws are of **** quality, when tightening all screws make sure to do it little by little tightening every screw. It is really easy to have the last one shear and the head of the screw comes straight of when tightening, I replaced all screws to higher grade ones after the initial destruction of one.... The ring needs to be centered! ossa has a tool for this but it can be done without the tool.

Lay the bike down on its side, much easier....

If you've never been fiddling with a clutch then take pictures for every step during disassembly - makes you a lot more confident in putting it back together!

Oops, think I Made it sound difficult - it's really not, can be done by a newbie in a few hours with the help of instruction sheets as per above. The beta fix takes some time, I did not go into the detailed work described in the other thread, just filed it clean from glue residue and removed some excessive glue around the outer plate guides to help the plates move freely.

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If you want some pics from the clutch work I did then pm me and I can send them through email - tried to post them here but doesn't seem like I'm technical enough to handle it....

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Please send pics to ossacanada@rogers.com, cheers, always willing to look at new ideas.

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http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/gallery/album/107-ossa-clutch-work/

Finally understood how to create an album.... For pics follow the link above. I have unfortunately deleted most pics but at least these will give you an understanding of what I was trying to say in my first post.

Boris - thanks for the work you have done putting the guides together, appreciated across the globe ;)

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