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sadlotus
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Hi all,

First posting so be gentle. been a long time since I went on a trials bike, had all sorts in between. First ever bike was a Montesa 50 - went from Kent to Devon on that, then an Ossa Mar - went everyday to college on that, then a King Scorpion (not a trials bike I know) then a mixture; 650 Kawasaki, RD500, 750Turbo, BMW around the world and ZRX everyday (nearly). Always wanted to get back onto a trials bike and always admired the Sherpa.

Here's what I've just (unwittingly?) bought, this is what I think I have, what do you think I have?

Bought as a 1973 92 model

Engine number: m-9201750

Frame number: b-9201729

But - all the below look different from online research...

Only one top tab to hold rear mudguard on.

No tabs to hold rear of slimline tank on - (tank's been cut down). But there are tabs further up where the seat frame joins.

Front brake actuating arm on the back not front of the front hub - also has speedo drive hole and non rimmed wheel. (Frontera wheel/hub?) possibly looks like a TY F/brake.

Does have chrome exhaust with rings for springs, but nothing to attach to on the head. Sammy Miller middle pipe and SWM rear silencer!

No rear speedo - spacer instead.

Rear shoes rotate around two pivots - not one as per manual - secured with wire not C clips!

Cut down slimline tank - but bolts for attachment too high(?).

Homemade brake pedal (possibly)

No pinch bolts on top of forks.

General bodges and odd nuts and bolts - I reckon this bike lived outside and had minimum care to maintain it.

Questions: Is this a right bodge up of several bikes to make one? Or, like Lotus, did Bultaco do updates as they went long and according to what they had in stock? ie lots of overlap between models.

What have I got? A proper ol'Heinz or what?

I've ridden it around the fields and up and down a few gullies, pulls well, topend rattles when revved - but wont rev off the scale - seems top run out of steam as if it's oiling up (new petrol at 40:1). Forks bottom out when the wheel leaves the ground, slow tractor like response when snapping open the throttle not easy to lift the front.

Questions: Is this a right bodge up of several bikes to make one? Or, like Lotus, did Bultaco do updates as they went long and according to what they had in stock? ie lots of overlap between models.

What have I got? A proper ol'Heinz?

http://s1197.photobucket.com/albums/aa422/sadlotus/

What does the panel think?

thanks

Paul

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It seems you MIGHT have a bitsa here. Pic below is of a model 92 (from: Bultaco Model IDs

092_g.jpg

As you see your frame is very different to that in the pic and lacks the bracing elements between the s/arm pivot and the top tube (I thought this change only came with the model 124/125). Whether the ref pic is correct I don't know. However the motor and chassis nums tally so I'm not sure what's up.

However if we looke here: Swiss twinshock site it seems that your bike is correct.

:blink:

John, Woody?

Edited by TooFastTim
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Hi Paul

You have an early (series 1) Model 92 with the correct frame. The frame was modified mid production of the model 92. If you Google immage the model 80 (the previous Sherpa) you will see the layout of the frame you have. There are lots of other items which are incorrect on the bike if you are keen on having an original model 92 Sherpa but the important thing for a basis of a rebuild is that the frame and engine numbers are simmilar (they should match but many Bultacos are a few digits out). If you just plan to use it at twinshock events you will soon find that unfortunately the bike is very uncompetative against the late twinshocks (Yams & Fantics) but the Sherpa is a fine bike and fun to ride and there is no twinshock as smart as a slimline Sherpa.

If you can find a copy of 'Historia de la Sherpa T' you can see all the Sherpas and the changes.

Best source of spares is Bultaco UK, Sammy Miller and ebay.

Whats the Lotus reference? I had a series of Elans at the same time as owning my Sherpa's.

Tim

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Yes your bike is the first 325, model 92. The most obvious problem is the front hub, should be conical, top triple clamp is correct. The photo posted by TFTim is a little misleading as that bike is not strictly speaking correct for a 2nd series 92, incorrect rear muffler, and black not chromed header bike.

As Tim said when set up correctly these are a really easy bike to ride with a very torquey engine, have fun.

Cheers Greg

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Most of the questions have been answered so I'll just fill in those that haven't

Only one top tab to hold rear mudguard on. Bodge, originals have been cut off.

No tabs to hold rear of slimline tank on - (tank's been cut down). But there are tabs further up where the seat frame joins. Originals cut off

Front brake actuating arm on the back not front of the front hub - also has speedo drive hole and non rimmed wheel. (Frontera wheel/hub?) possibly looks like a TY F/brake. Yamaha TY175/250 front wheel

Does have chrome exhaust with rings for springs, but nothing to attach to on the head. Sammy Miller middle pipe and SWM rear silencer! Miller front pipe also - the flange bolted to the cylinder should have hooks for the springs. Easy to make or pick up another of ebay. NOTE - later 350 Sherpa one is no good (model 159 on) as they are bigger.

No rear speedo - spacer instead. personal choice

Rear shoes rotate around two pivots - not one as per manual - secured with wire not C clips! Correct as earlier big hubs had 2 pivots.

Cut down slimline tank - but bolts for attachment too high(?). Yes - bodge

Homemade brake pedal (possibly) Miller brake pedal

No pinch bolts on top of forks. Correct

General bodges and odd nuts and bolts - I reckon this bike lived outside and had minimum care to maintain it.

Nice bikes in good working order and just about the strongest pulling trials motor of the day. They pull like hell.

Edit - I tried to colour my answers in red but it won't work for some reason, so hope you can pick them out ok

Edited by Woody
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Hi and thanks chaps,

Nice to be able to pin down the model and know what are the good and bad bits. The more I surf the more I can see the differences between the early and late 92s (thank goodness for the internet!) Also the more I research, the more I see the bodges by POs.

I'd love to restore the bike - if not back to original, at least to to a stage to make it feel proud again, but at the moment I'm having too much fun just chugging around the fields and tracks and through the woods. Think I'll start collecting the missing bits, front wheel and silencer is a good start, then see how it goes over the winter.

Thanks for your help - a good start - I'm sure I'll be back for more.

Tim - As for as the Lotus connection - I've had an '68 Elan S4 for a long time that was very sad when I bought it - nowadays it can hold its head up high and even on occasions give a wry smile to more modern machinery away from the lights - I suppose I should have called myself SadBultaco (there again, to be honest, I have seen sadder Sherpas)

Paul

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  • 1 year later...

Blimey! I first posted in Sept 2011! I thought I'd be back before this!

Well, finished bar the carb fettling - but seems good to me when I ride it.

Enjoyed my time in the shed, all went fairly well - a few problems putting the engine back together, but goes lovely now.

What have I done? strip everything down, frame off to I Cleenz Macheenz in South London, £50 and ready for spraying, used Hammerite spray over powdercoating - after a lot of thinking. Frame's not quite right and if I want to weld/change/alter it that'll ruin the powder, paint's easier.

Small fortune (it's relative) at InMotion and Ebay, including: new crank, tank cap, electronic ignition, brakes, cables, new rubbers throughout, new bearings and starter spring etc, new clutch casing, levers and Bultaco front wheel (instead of the Yamaha one)and rear (later) silencer (instead of the SWM one), paint and glass.

Reglassed the tank under the seat to lose the rounded shape - but not deep enough as original - I like the 'shorter' shape. Repainted the tank myself but got a mate to laquer it. Had the logos made up by another mate before lacquering - they're cutout instead of on an oblong clear base.

New tyres instead of the perished things on there before.

Engine was rebuilt by a friend - a retired Finair Jet Engine engineer now restoring planes at Duxford - knows his stuff and found he had to return the crank a couple of times until it was correct, he fixed other unexpected stripped threads etc, was quite apologetic that it took so long, he said he can usually do a two stroke in a few weeks at home in Helsinki.

Cracked the front shock at the wheel bolt - then told it needs a shim - Doh! (ring..ring.. Hello? Is that BultacoUK? I need a fork leg)

Seat redone in Poundland neoprene Laptop cover - ahem, looks nice but not sure how robust it'll be.

Later clubfoot silencer, cheaper and easier to find/fund than the triangle one.

Litre of 50:1 mix in, and third kick it started - YAY! putted round the yard and up over the fields, brakes are nfg but chuggs from nothing and feels so much better than before.

Two days later took the bike cover off in the shed and WHOAH!! what's that? The tank's bubbling in places from the petrol, from the Ethanol I reckon - E's.. Grr I used to be only wary of them in Smarties!

Used KBS Gold standard tank sealer and seems to have worked - so far - looks and feels like Hammerite. I’ll redo the tank when I can… be bothered….let’s use it first.

Loving it. Thanks for the help and advice on here, often found myself scrolling through the old posts looking for colour codes, positionings, etc.

  • Like 1
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Paul -

Well done - that's quite a transformation.........

Was going to comment on the original pic. (until I noticed the date of your original post) that the fork sliders had been transposed - but I expect you worked that out anyway.

Enjoy - and let's hope it doesn't live up (down?) to l.o.tu.s - i.e. "lots of trouble, usually serious").

Love the prop. stand, by the way.........

Edited by lorenzo
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