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Hot starting Rev 4T


trialtrial
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Hi guys, I am looking for your favorite tips on hot starting the Rev 4T. When I had mine out this weekend it was a total nightmare to start. I almost spent more time kicking it over than riding it.

My bike already had the hot start mod (it didn't help at all this past weekend). I just fixed the idle mixture (it was 1 3/4 turns, I set it to 3). And I put the needle at the second to top clip (it was on the third).

So before I take it out again - I want to know your procedure for a successful hot start. One of them is bound to work for me. Spare no details, please.

thanks!

Edited by TrialTrial
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From my experance the Beta 4t's have always been easy to start. I never used the hot start button. When warm I would just slightly crack the throttle and it would start right up!

tend to need throttle when warm ,dont usually need hotstart have you raised clip ? as this will drop the needle and id say you need to raise it to give more fuel so you need to lower the clip ,what colour is the plug has it been changed ,also has valve clearences been checked correctly (just wondering if they are too tight ) a carb clean out also wouldnt harm to rule it out

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Aah yes, if I knew then what I know now!

I had the Rev 4t and had the same problem, but persevered with the hot start. Sometimes with success, others kicking until fit to drop.

I now have the Evo 250 4t 2011 and the same problem ensued, until I stalled in a section one day and the observer, a Beta 4t owner of old, put me right.

There are two kinds of Beta four strokes, those that will start with the hot start, and you guessed it, those that don't.

Neutral, no clutch and a whiff of throttle. Eureka.

Phil Scott, we thank you.

:icon_salut:

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Thanks all for the tips. This will help. Is there danger of flooding it? I seem to recall reading somewhere that if too much throttle it might become flooded and I'd have to wait a couple of minutes.

ZeroRev3Rev4: clips and needles - I said it wrong, the clip was lowered to the second slot from the tip of the needle, thus raising the needle. New plug coming today. Haven't checked the vales yet - if still a problem, I will do it. Same with the carb - I took off the float bowl and all looked great, but that does not mean there is a little crap in there somewhere. If my idle adjust/needle adjust does not make it better I will dig into the valves and the carb. I envy you guys with easy hot starting bikes.

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I have never ridden or started a 4t trials bike. I have had plenty of 4t enduro bikes though.

XR 250, 400 & 600

DR 350

TM 400E

KTM EXC 525

The common thing I found with all of them was hot starting (or any starting) can be a pig if you don't follow a strict technique.

1. Always get the piston just over top dead centre by using light kicker pressure - this give the motor a proper rotation and balances the mixture or fuel and air along with valve train etc.

2. One good clean solid full push of the starter lever - not a stabby kick like a 2t other wise you will get nowhere.

3. A whiff of throttle may help. Sometimes none at all. This is usually down to settings of the fueling and can be dialed out so a non throttle start should work every time.

4. If the bike is red hot and been on its side - lift it up, open throttle wide and do two clearing prods (full swings) on the starter. Find top dead centre and do the norm.

I was shown this method by an old skool enduro boy and it changed my life! Never had an issue ever again. I once lent a mate my XR600 when I went away for a week. I came back and asked "what do you think?" he replied "four of us have tried every day to start it with no joy". First kick by me and it fired as normal no bother.

Interestingly they all had 2t bikes not 4t bikes. When I first got my XR400 I snapped the starter lever (

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I have never ridden or started a 4t trials bike. I have had plenty of 4t enduro bikes though.

XR 250, 400 & 600

DR 350

TM 400E

KTM EXC 525

The common thing I found with all of them was hot starting (or any starting) can be a pig if you don't follow a strict technique.

1. Always get the piston just over top dead centre by using light kicker pressure - this give the motor a proper rotation and balances the mixture or fuel and air along with valve train etc.

2. One good clean solid full push of the starter lever - not a stabby kick like a 2t other wise you will get nowhere.

3. A whiff of throttle may help. Sometimes none at all. This is usually down to settings of the fueling and can be dialed out so a non throttle start should work every time.

4. If the bike is red hot and been on its side - lift it up, open throttle wide and do two clearing prods (full swings) on the starter. Find top dead centre and do the norm.

I was shown this method by an old skool enduro boy and it changed my life! Never had an issue ever again. I once lent a mate my XR600 when I went away for a week. I came back and asked "what do you think?" he replied "four of us have tried every day to start it with no joy". First kick by me and it fired as normal no bother.

Interestingly they all had 2t bikes not 4t bikes. When I first got my XR400 I snapped the starter lever (

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1. Always get the piston just over top dead centre by using light kicker pressure - this give the motor a proper rotation and balances the mixture or fuel and air along with valve train etc.

Probably THE most important step in learning to start a 4-stroke single. Especially as you move into the larger bore bikes. I see you have (or had) a big bore KTM. I had a KTM 600 6 Days Special. About killed myself trying to start that thing until I remembered the top dead center trick. KTM kick start on the left hand side makes it even more fun!

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Gday, this phenomenon is called hot soaking. Your bike goes rich for a few minutes after running as the heat from the engine evaporates fuel from the bowl. This leaves a cloud of fuel vapor in the inlet tract which causes the hot starting issues. As mentioned above, cracking the throttle slightly fixes it by leaning the mixture (you are letting more air in!). This is common and there is no cure apart from using the correct techniques as the others have mentioned. Dont be concerned that holding the throttle open will cause flooding, it doesn't and the flooding already exists.

Hope that clears things up a bit.

Cheers,

Stork

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I think that sums it up. "a slow kick". It needs to be a full push of the starter not a girly jabby kick like on a 2t.

On a 4t you need to get the whole lot to travel the the four stoke engine running theory.

A jab will only get you two or three but you need all four.

If you get it sussed it is easy peasy.

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