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New guy in need of a little help!


christopherd
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The grey cast plug looks like it was run in a cylinder than had coolant in the combustion chamber.

The plating is somewhat harder than the piston so pistons wear faster than the bore. The bore is plated with very fine Silicon Carbide particles imbedded in a Nickel matrix. The pistons also contain Silicon Carbide, usually around 10-17%. So, you have a ceramic coating in the bore and ceramic in the piston.

It's difficult to tell from the photo, but if it's piston material, you may be able to remove it with Muriatic Acid (used in swimming pool care). Obviously you should treat Muriatic with the same respect you would any strong acid and take appropriate safety steps.

Scotchbrite probably will not remove it. You could try some 200-300 grit wet/dry sandpaper and water to do it but be careful to only remove the piston material.

11.5-13 Nm is the torque setting for the head capscrews.

Jon

The two plug pics are of different sides of the same plug.

From what you guys are saying there are no marks what so ever permitted in the bore or on the piston.Right?

Edited by ChristopherD
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The two plug pics are of different sides of the same plug.

From what you guys are saying there are no marks what so ever permitted in the bore or on the piston.Right?

Marks are o.k. The problem lies in a small amount of metal in the bore sticking up above the surface. That will force the ring to ride up on the metal and move back into the groove/land and allow exhaust gases to blow past the ring on either side of the protrusion. This can lead to local hot spots, distortion and, at the least, a loss of compression/power.

Jon

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Marks are o.k. The problem lies in a small amount of metal in the bore sticking up above the surface. That will force the ring to ride up on the metal and move back into the groove/land and allow exhaust gases to blow past the ring on either side of the protrusion. This can lead to local hot spots, distortion and, at the least, a loss of compression/power.

Jon

Okay its all back together, I guess I could do a compression test to see how the bore/rings are holding up.

What do you think?

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I made a compression test and it showed 115psi on the gauge, not too bad so I started her up and she fired on the forth kick (new plug needed)

I rode up and down the street a few times and all seems well, the fan did not come on though????????

So I guess I should test the thermostat? and the Fan.

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Thats what i kind of thought your prob may have been to start with chris,overheating,id try the thermostat first see if opens a nd closes then the fan switch.

Got to be cheaper than a new top end,glad you got away with out some replating though,good luck.

Andy.

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Thats what i kind of thought your prob may have been to start with chris,overheating,id try the thermostat first see if opens a nd closes then the fan switch.

Got to be cheaper than a new top end,glad you got away with out some replating though,good luck.

Andy.

So how would you go about testing the thermostat?

I hear that if you make the conection in the switch the fan will be on full time.

Also that a little 9v battery will power the fan.

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So how would you go about testing the thermostat?

I hear that if you make the conection in the switch the fan will be on full time.

Also that a little 9v battery will power the fan.

If you just went up and down the street, you probably had enough air flow through the radiator to keep things cooled off. The fan usually operates

when the bike is moving slow and has some load on the engine, like riding a section. Try a slow ride in the driveway to see if it comes on.

If it was working before, it probably is o.k. now unless you moved the wiring somehow and maybe pulled a connection apart.

The thermo switch can be tested in a pan of water on the stove, using a temp gauge and electrical meter to check conductvity between the two wires when the temp

goes to above 180 degrees (82C) +-. The thermo switches are pretty simple and usually are quite reliable.

Most of us use a 12V car battery to test the motor as the full voltage gives us an idea of how strong the motor puts out.

Jon

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If you just went up and down the street, you probably had enough air flow through the radiator to keep things cooled off. The fan usually operates

when the bike is moving slow and has some load on the engine, like riding a section. Try a slow ride in the driveway to see if it comes on.

If it was working before, it probably is o.k. now unless you moved the wiring somehow and maybe pulled a connection apart.

The thermo switch can be tested in a pan of water on the stove, using a temp gauge and electrical meter to check conductvity between the two wires when the temp

goes to above 180 degrees (82C) +-. The thermo switches are pretty simple and usually are quite reliable.

Most of us use a 12V car battery to test the motor as the full voltage gives us an idea of how strong the motor puts out.

Jon

Okay, hooked up the 12V and the fan works fine.......

Going to warm her up on the drive way and see what happens.

Thanks for all the help fellas it is most appreciated.

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