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'03 2.5 Bottom End Fueling And Dodgy Clutch Issues


silverwood
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Cheers for the replies guys. It makes sense what you are saying, as I was pouring my tea this morning I did start thinking if the bike was getting any fuel as the plugs just didn't add up. It feels like I am making silly mistake after silly mistake at the moment.

The pictures really highlight the gunge on the outside of the carb. Macro takes no prisoners I suppose. I'll rip it all off and try again!

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After another look at those pics, a couple things struck me.

First, I do not recall the banjo fuel inlet angled rearward on any my bikes. Seems yours is angled back 20-30 % where it should be angled forward the same amount. This may put undue stress and restriction in the place the hose split as the hose must run forward to the tap. Then the crankcase vent tube(below inlet) shuold run up and over the left side of the carb, then accross the inlet and back to between the banjo inlet and carb body to hold it, then down to the skidplate area.

Second, I do see you have hose on the bowl vents. These hoses should be trimmed to around 50mm length if you are running them at all.

In most cases, the fuel line requires enough length to run its course from the banjo, forward then left accross the engine inlet to make a gentile sweep accross and near the clutch cable, then forward back and over to the tap. So the hose sits on the inlet and is not pinged against the muff in any way.

This little loop still only requires about 6 inches of hose.

Edited by copemech
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Cheers for the thoughts Cope. I'm not sure when the picture was taken but that was either before or after I took a look at the fuel filter located under the fuel banjo. I've set it up, by luck I imagine, in the way you've described above.

I've had the bike running however! I have stripped it again though as it's not quite right and I was worried if there was a lack of fuel then there would be a lack of lubrication. Scary thought.

I'll go through the carb again and reclean it. I'll also have a look at the idle/fuel air screw to see where that is set. I haven't touched this in the past. Am I right in thinking that between 2 and a half turns and three is what you are looking for as an ideal base to then adjust from? As in the bike should fuel and idle well at about that and then on the day you can fiddle slightly.

I looked at the Sherco USA page and noticed the advice on the fuel tap. It has only been running on reserve so I took the chance to take the fuel tap apart. It is now clean and the straw has been trimmed. I did wonder if it was flowing fuel fast enough but when I tested it it did seem fine. Will test it again now that it has been cleaned and reassembled.

Cope the drain hoses on the carb have been trimmed after your advice previously and are about 5cm long if that! Thanks for the info on the routing of the crank case breather and the fuel line. My fuel line is long as I've added in a fuel filter and a quick release coupler over the last while. It does seem to follow the correct route though and can be trimmed down for a tidier fit when I've got the bike set up and running nicely. The crank breather however just went straight to the back of the guard. Order will be restored there! :)

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Also, I asked before but think it was missed with all the other issues but, is the Beta mod worth doing to the Sherco? Could the issues I'm having with the clutch be down to the plates being minging and the oil sticking to them?

Go back about three pages in this Sherco forum to the November timeframe and you will find my post called Sherco Clutch Mods. So in answer, I do things a bit differently, takes more time, and is a PITA! But my clutch works luverly and does not stick after sitting. :closedeyes:

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