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Clutch Issue


tony27
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I've been riding a 6day trial for the last 5days which is being run nonstop & it was pointed out that in tight turns I'm not very smooth, turns out that there seems to be quite a short engagement period making the clutch very hard to feather

The basket & hub are both less than a month old so it's not caused by any notches. Oil was new before the start of the event & is silkolene light gear oil-haven't managed to find the oil recommended by Neo. Have tried quite a few different oils & ATF over the years with no real improvement

Any ideas on what I need to be looking at when I get home in a couple of days?

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The bike is my 04 Jarvis Rep which in reality is a pre-production 05 290 in 04 colours with special graphics, the bike literally left the factory gates an hour before their summer holidays. The 1 bike I don't think I could ever sell without feeling like it was 1 of the children I'd sold

Lewis, the problem isn't that there is no freeplay at the adjuster or that the clutch doesn't fully release rather that take up is rather sudden. Have tried adjusting the freeplay & moving the lever away from the bar to move where full release is with no real improvement - the lever is an ARC folding lever & the adjustment to move the lever away from the bar was made on the lever itself rather than on the master cylinder

Apart from this issue the bike performed faultlessly for the 6 days & had the sherco importer amazed at how quiet the motor was & how tidy it still is for a 9 year old bike

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Tony

with the clutch mechanicals are as good as you state, the only other variables are clutch bleeding (not sure this would do this) and clutch plates.

. First thing to ask... has the bike always been like this? or ist a recent issue?

One issue is when not enough oil gets to the friction surfaces, this can cause overheating and grabbyness. Things to look out for:-

  • Have the plates been replaced recently, are the grooves on the friction plates deep and clear of adhesive.
  • Are the steel plates warped at all (often discoloured as well)
  • When the clutch basket ring gear was fitted and rivetted, were the oil holes in the ring gear lined up with those in the basket?
  • Lastly, ive heard good things about the dimpled plates offered by some manufacturers (again, these allow retained oil).

thats all

Dom

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Couple of things I will throw out to you, Tony. As you mentioned tight turns specifically, try riding in second gear as compared to first. First reacts quicker due to the torque multiplication of the ratio. It is actually easier to make the clutch slip in second, or even third if to exagerate the effect.

Second, might try running the experiment of removing two opposing springs in the pack. I have run this now for quite some time, and I have come to like it. Light lever pull and more progressive.

MC

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  • 2 weeks later...

I've have used Motorex 10w30 and found it very grabby.

Have found (if your clutch is in good condition) a good quality mineral or semi synthetic

15w50 gets rid of nearly all clutch shudder and grabbiness also makes the clutch super progressive.

If you use a low quality one you can get some clutch slip.

I have been using shell AX7 15w50 semi synthetic but is getting very hard to find so I've just started using Motul 3100 gold 15w50 mineral which after 1 ride seems even better and still hooks the clutch up in high gears uphill full throttle. But will see how it performs after a few rides.

The thicker oil also stops that Sherco clutch grab from cold.

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Trying Ipone box2 oil at the moment , so far I haven't really noticed the clutch but yesterday's trial wasn't set very hard due to forecast weather although there was a section with full lock turns between trees at the top of a bank which would have been where the clutch would have been noticed

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