Jump to content

Sign in to follow this  
sherpat

Swm Tl320 Kickstart Shaft Oil Seal

Recommended Posts

Anyone know what number oil seal is used for the SWM Kickstart shaft? Mine is leaking, and I'd like to get it locally if possible.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

 

Hi, I just bought one from my local supplier, the sizes on the packet are 20X28X6 and the product ref is M02002806R23. It only cost £2.45 +vat which seems quite reasonable, hope this helps B)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Thanks a lot B40 and Turps! I pulled my old one out this weekend, and it matches the size that Turps got, 20 x 28 x 6, double lip. I'll stop by the local bearing shop this week.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

I've got the same issue... leak from the oil seal on the kickstart / gear change shaft on an SWM 320 TL. Can this be done from  the external side by just removing the kickstart and gear lever, and prising off the old, then on with the new seal? Or is it necessary to remove the carb, drain the oil, remove the clutch casing and fit the new bearing? 

Any advice much appreciated. Nigel 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Should be able to do it just by removing kickstart etc (fyi, you can take casing off and leave carb in situ) Hopefully seal and o ringing cure your leak, if not there is another o ring on the other end of the shaft which requires splitting the casings to access.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

It is often just dirt that got collected between gear lever and Kickstarter mechanism. 

In case of a dripping shaft I take of both levers then too the oil Ring now clean the area very well and mount the o-ring again then the kick start lever then some grease and last not least the gear lever with a bit of distance to the o-ring. 

That worked very well for my SWM, the grease protect the area against sand and rubbish for quite a while and makes cleaning up again very easy.

Edited by pschrauber

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Many thanks for that. I've identified where the oil seal is, and got the size from your earlier entries in this threadso I can pre-order it. But I hadn't worked out there's an O ring in there. So, is that effectively sealing between the hollow of the kickstart shaft and the gear spline running through it? It may be I've wrongly decided the leak is coming through the failing oil seal when in fact it's the O ring that has given up?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Yep there is an other o-ring on the inside and both should seal the outer to the inner shaft, but when dirt comes in between the outer shaft o-ring and the shaft it is not a seal anymore, in very muddy conditions you can press acitently mud in between through your boots and then it starts dripping. 

If you then use ATF or HTX oil which is thin there is quite an amount that will drip out from there. 

With keeping that area clean you can avoid dripping. 

What can also be the case is an outer shaft that is not round anymore which will happen if you overthighten the kickstart screw, then you need a new shaft which btw. is sold out in Europe. 

Edited by pschrauber

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Thanks you pschrauber and b40rt. I now feel enlightened, and will do an exploratory op' later and see what needs doing. Really appreciate your advice, and feeling a bit more confident at attacking it now.

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
6 hours ago, the outlaw said:

Thanks you pschrauber and b40rt. I now feel enlightened, and will do an exploratory op' later and see what needs doing. Really appreciate your advice, and feeling a bit more confident at attacking it now.

If you do end up taking the casing off, its worth making a card template for the allan screws as there are various lengths. 

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Last week I put together a basket case SWM TL320 from boxes of parts, I’ve had it for a few years and had some time to work on it. All the seals, bearings and rod were replaced. So I was surprised when it started leaking oil. I discovered there was a small crack in the clutch cover where the Kickstarter hub was kicked too far and smashed into the clutch cover. Look there too. Yes you can take the cover off without removing the carb.

 

 

C8DA5E5C-1DA2-4001-8120-ABFBC4D653BC.jpeg

Edited by dozerash
Added photo
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
 

Magnesium is OK for TIG welding, too. AC/DC, special rods and rather low amps, after cleaning and cleaning again, plus preheating and slow cooling. I case of severe damage, it is the only way out.

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Kned metal with the same purpose as aluminium and good for temperatures above 300° celsius to smaller cracks works also fine, did that to some other cracked cases, the casing of my SWM had a dent which I filled with that stuff in 2013 and it is still there.

But I don't know if you can get it where you live, in case of difficulties I can sent you some. 

Edited by pschrauber
Grammer and spelling issues due to automatic spell checker that was set on German
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...