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Tyre Wear.


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Hi folks,

 

I know this is an extremely debatable subject. (Do you ride mud, rocks, for pleasure or to win, etc)

I'm just trying to get a feel for how long people keep a tyre going and whether sharp edges are the be all and end all.

 

I have a rear on a 4RT with about 40 to 50 hours of grass slopes and rock sections, practising front wheel lifts and upto 2 foot steps, mainly.

The front edges are quite well rounded now.

But I still find grip doing tight turns on steep wet grass.

 

I struggle finding grip in mud, but that is probably lack of practise and technique.

 

How often do you change your rears?

Do you ever "turn them round" to use the rear edges of the blocks?

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Depens to so many factors where you have ridden, have you done some road riding with the bike, age.

I recently changed the tires for the SWM they where mounted in 2012. The edges were pretty well rounded and there were too some deep cuts too. Then the knobbies of the tire had some wear in highness too due to some road riding. But mostly the tire got stiffer compared to a new one I had mounted to another bike and in fact the newer tire did stick better on nearly every ground. Interesting on grass there was no difference as you mentioned. But sand, stones and logs were significant better to travel with the new tires. To mount them "in other direction" I did not test as the in rear stiffnes was my personal reason to change.

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My set has over 100 hours on it. All rock riding. Trials tires are so sticky, especially at clubman level I just don't see any reason to replace them much. It's not like a knobby where all your grip is from the knob/edge.

I'll probably replace mine at the end of this season in another 50-100 hours.

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I started riding trials in 1973 and have bought, oh, five or six rear tyres in that time. Sharp edges can be overrated in comparison to technique and correct pressures. I still notice lots of people running too much air, new tyres or not.

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I'm even tighter than cleanorbust and ran a Pinky which came with a part used tyre for nine years but can't remember fitting a new tyre though I suppose I must have at some time as the bike did get a lot of use.

That bike found grip where other Yams didn't. I'm sure most of us have turned tyres - sometimes more than once☺

Edited by 2stroke4stroke
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I am with cleanorbust pressure and technique to me are the largest factor in getting grip, however I would also agree with pschrauber that if its getting to old and stiff even good technique and proper pressure will not get you all the way there. 

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I just rode the National in Colorado in the Vintage Twinshock class on a 1976 Cota 348. The old Michilen was splitting cross wise on the knobs about 1/3 of the tire. So about 12 really bad cracks. I cleaned 28 of 36 sections. New tires are over rated.

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I got my Greeves TFS back together last year after it being apart since 1980. A guy at work gave me a good 2nd hand rear tyre which I fitted to give the best grip according to the wear. All good until mot time when I, and the mot tester both noticed the tiny arrow on the sidewall denoting the correct rotation for the tyre. Had to reverse the tyre to pass the mot.... :angry:

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I got my Greeves TFS back together last year after it being apart since 1980. A guy at work gave me a good 2nd hand rear tyre which I fitted to give the best grip according to the wear. All good until mot time when I, and the mot tester both noticed the tiny arrow on the sidewall denoting the correct rotation for the tyre. Had to reverse the tyre to pass the mot.... :angry:

Dremel.

Edited by b40rt
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I just rode the National in Colorado in the Vintage Twinshock class on a 1976 Cota 348. The old Michilen was splitting cross wise on the knobs about 1/3 of the tire. So about 12 really bad cracks. I cleaned 28 of 36 sections. New tires are over rated.

 

 = super skills and a twinshock Bou? Sorry for winding up but it was so obvious.

 

It really depends to the underground and yes in classic trials it doesn't matters so much, the radial tires came first in the beginning 80's and were firstly only available for works riders. With the TY mono the new Michelin radial tire was available for the public in W and S version, these tires changed the riding style completly in trials.

 

W = winter = temp. under 17°C

S = summer = temp. over 17°C

 

Anyway the benefits between a very good or a decent trials tire when new are also obvious on a twin shock bike the way the carcasse is build (diagonal or radial inforcement makes a huge difference) and what rubber mixture is used really makes a difference. 

Still 75% is up to the rider and with a tire that sticks more to ground even on slippery and wet surfaces gives you more confidence.

Edited by pschrauber
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