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Oh, The Inevitability Of It All.


netley
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After all the trouble starting and plug fouling it seems it is the main bearings so seals as well.

Please see pic attached.

Discernible movement when levered under the magneto so engine re-build it is.

The pictures in my manual aren't good. They mention the 12, 6mm nuts securing the crankcase halves and not to loosen the illustrated one as it secures the friction pin though this does not apply to pre '76 models. I can't make out which one they mean.

Can anyone shed any light on this? Also any advice on pitfalls to avoid gratefully accepted.

 

Cheers Neil

post-21331-0-07031600-1474729717_thumb.jpg

Edited by netley
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hit it with  a big  hammer  that  normaly splits the Engine Ah only joking I just undo alloy the half crank case nuts and the small Allen bolt hat the front Engine mount I just use a hot Air gun to heat all around the centre crank with a hide hammer gently tape the crank shaft then it should come apart ii just rest the Engine on too blocks off Wood. obviously make sure all nuts or off and front sprocket ignition flywheel all the clutch needs to come off crank seal holders.

Edited by bondy
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Hi Netley. To reassemble the engine you will find it a lot easier to remove the neutral stop which is the 19mm bolt on the left hand case with the spring loaded rounded thing on the end of it. It also makes everything a lot easier if all the gears are in the left hand case and not the right hand one where they are now. Use a few dabs of grease on the centre gasket and have it on the right hand case. They usually go back together really easy. Don`t forget the small washer on top of the kickstart gear. Graham.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Re-built crank back today with all new con rod and big/little end bearings. Now just need some time but at least I didn't buy a BMW GS.

Saw this one in the shop, 60,000 miles !

 

post-21331-0-05349900-1476117287_thumb.jpg

Edited by netley
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