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philbeese

Trouble Starting

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I have a Gas Gas TXT280 pro 2004 which takes a lot of kicking before it starts. Cleaned all earths, have a good blue spark. Changed pilot jet from 35 to 40, adjusted needle clip to 3rd notch down, mixture set at 3.5 turns. Bike only starts if air screw is almost right in, idles great. Seems like every time I start it I have to mess about with air screw. Is this right??? Don't have to do anything with my other bike except kick it. Thanks.

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 Remember all those kicks is wearing out the crappy kick start pawl (Bart as it`s called for it`s half moon shape). The gasser does not have a full 360 degree gear, it is very short. Sounds like you are not getting fuel when cold. Throw the bike on the ground to prime the carb. Use the starting method I explained in your other post. You might be just too low on compression.

 P.S, when I bought my Raga the previous owner sold it because he could not start it. For awhile I had my son start it for me until I figured it out. Good luck.

Edited by lineaway

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Thanks guys. It is a delortto carb, and I've set it as described in Jim Snells video on GasGas carbs. Got plenty of compression,good spark.it's just that if I turn the idle screw in to nearly stop position it will start 1st or 2nd kick and the turn it back out 3.5 turns. Floats are fine no problems.

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Then clean the choke circuit out. It`s the long jet with the o ring and also where it connects to the bowl of the carb has to be clear.

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Choke jet been all cleaned, even had carb professionally dipped, needs choke every time when cold, no throttle. Every time I start it I always need to mess about with idle screw, once started runs perfectly. Also cleaned main jet.

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I suggest that the carb is overall lean, the easyest way to start the gasgas pro, is to put the bike in to 2nd gear (turn fuel on choke on of course, everything you do when ready to kick the bike over).  With the bike in gear, rear wheel in a tractionable position, rock the bike back and forth, so that you hear the engine move, this is pushing the piston from just below compression to compression, but loads the crankcase and cylinder a little bit with fuel mixture from carb.  I do this no less than 5 times.  I mean forward and back is one time, do it 5 times if in the 70's aka short sleeve weather, more if colder.  when you finish rocking the bike back and forth make sure you stop after making the bike go backwards, take the bike out of gear, prepare to kick it a new way, my way.  What has to happen now is that you position your body ready to kick the bike over.  You do NOT ratchet the kick lever looking for that high compression spot!   you get the foot over the lever, and just now kick with your leg muscles, not by jumping up in the air, and using your body weight mostly, on the lever.  I broke at least one of the gears Lineaway mentioned above, on every year model of the 300 from 04 to the 2008, at least once.  I have not broken this gear in the last several years due to new technique.

 

My bike will start on the 1st kick every time, doing it this way.  it has helped 'timid' women who where standng the bikes on kickstands, bending and breaking those, to much easily start even 250's and 125's gas gas pros...  

 

FWIW, IMHO The 300's have mostly too much compression to do the "find the compression" and then kick with your body weight type of kick!  the engine if you listen will only turn through compression about 1.5 maybe 2 times...  if you do it my way, you kick with your muscles, doing it hard from the second your boot even touched the lever, some sort of refer to it as SLAP KICK, which this really is NOT, but this technique is getting a mechanical, speed, and muscle advantage "aka a RUN at" at the 1st compression of the cycle...  This means you line the crotch of your pants to be almost covering the fuel cap, lean the bike closer to your left leg a little more maybe, don't try to hold the bike perfectly straight up if you are less than 6ft tall, and push your leg through the kick with your thigh and calf muscles.

 

if you do this, which I have shown lots of people how to do by taking my wrist strapped kill switch off (no spark) and on my 300, my bike will turn over at least 4 revolutions through the compression, even without spark, the best I can ever do is 2 crappy slow rotations when doing this, 'the up against compression jump down on the lever' (big harley or 500cc or bigger 4 stroke type kick)...  IMHO if there was a compression release for that kind of kick, ya'll would have a better chance of starting these bikes, especially the bigger bore ones, which BTW many of the bigger cc "dirt or enduro" bikes do have on the kicker system (which adds weight).

 

I really need to make a video of how to do this, which takes time and another person to capture the vids, but I am sting32 on Youtube, maybe I can make the video this weekend and post it there...

Edited by sting32

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Put the 35 pilot jet back in,sounds like it'll only start if you weaken the mixture

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