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Power Coat Or Paint


model80
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Just about to start my 199A restoration project and I am wondering what is the best way to coat the frame.

Would modern automotive paints offer a better finish than traditional powder coating?

The reason I ask, is that during our Model 80 restoration (almost complete) I found that the powder coating chipped very easily.

Edited by model80
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I have had in the past been against powder coating for two reasons. The first is as in your model 80 experience chipping away and the other is colour match as despite being specific on colour required have ended up with grey not silver.

However I have located a firm in Essex ( I do not want to advertise on here but will happily pm details) who have powder coated a couple of frames for me and the colour is a good match for the original Bultaco silver (Apparently a BMW colour that they import the powder in from the states) and so far the finish has been more durable than I have experienced in the past. Bottom line is I am now a powder coat convert.

 

The firm have just done the 5 wheels of my 1935 BSA car and these are powder coated in chrome affect and look fantastic.

 

Stuart

Edited by twinnshock
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As is the case with all external finishes the real secret is in the preparation BEFORE the coating, and years of experience restoring various models taught me that usually the quality of the primary finish is a personality thing.  When you find someone doing the work not only competently but also thoroughly, stick with them - almost whatever the cost.

 

Powder coating correctly applied on a correctly prepared surface will stand virtually any test, in my experience - if it chips it usually means not enough care in the application under vacuum - so find another supplier, the main problem to remember is if you get it poorly powder coated, that is often the end of the story - the bits that don't chip will likely resist any attempt to remove them and start again.

 

Your first port of call should be a recommendation from someone you trust........

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Habe eine both ans started with a powder coating for a motorcycle frame.

The outcome was and still is great.

To the preparation as already discussed the frame was completely blasted two times first with steel pellets to get of all old paint and rust then a second time with "Korund" which is the material which is used for grinding paper.

The frame was two times coated first with a base coating heat resistant and tempered then with the color coat.

The outcome is great but if you have to do repairs cause of scratches by assembly or in later use there is no way to get the same color or glossiness and dullness a powder coat provides. The finish of the powder coating is glossy but to a bit dull something you can't replicate with lacquers, as the color itself btw. too. So I have some issues now to repaired spots...

I now switched to standard air brush coatings done by professional car body shops. Preparation is still the same with two stage blasting.

Then a base coat with epoxy based paint and then a following coat with standard car paint based on two components. The fresh colored frame has then be tempered so the coating is hardened sufficiently. The finish is very nice and much more glossy.

I personal now prefers air brush coatings any repairs you want to do are much easier done and I can polish up the repaired spots very well and these are not visible.

Will send pics later if needed? So you see the differences.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Not all powder coating is created equal.

Find someone using 3M materials if you want a quality finish. Yes, it aint cheap but gives a great finish, a tough rather than brittle coating and has 'popping' colours rather than 'bloomy'.

Edited by iconic558
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:moon: they wasn't  powder coated when New.

 

Agree they did not use powder coat when new but having owned a brand new model 198 one of the last red ones back in 1978 I would want something a bit better than the original finish on my newly restored bike.

 

If original finish is required can I suggest:-

Clean frame back to bare metal. Allow a couple of days in damp conditions to get a fine layer of rust. Not to much just enough to ensure the paint does not adhere. Do not use any undercoat. This may help the paint to stick so must be avoided at all costs.. Take an old tin of silver paint the older the better. That old tin you bought in Woolworths and been in the shed for the last 20 years will do just fine. Apply using method of choice but make sure thickness is the minimum you can get away with.  Avoid cleaning bike with a power washer as this will remove the paint.

 

The last comment is a reference from hard experience.  Both myself and a mate had brand new bikes and after a days practice in very muddy conditions we took both bikes to the lorry yard were my mates dad worked. He went first and one pass with the company power washer and on that side hardly any frame paint left. My bike still dirty put back on to the trailer to be cleaned at home with garden hose, sponge and bucket.

 

Powder coat for me!

 

Stuart

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Wow that must off been some power washer to take the paint off all my bikes are stove enamell never had any paint come off and i use a power washer all the time. end off the day you make your own mind up.

The Bultaco's he mentioned weren't powder coated when new...unless I missed something which is possible of course:)

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