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4rt, what gear??


99techno
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Your opinions guys on what gear to use to ride clubman level trials in wonderfully wet Yorkshire.

its a new bike after ten years off.

i finished riding a 4rt ten years ago so I'm not a total stranger to the machine.

i remember all those years ago not getting to grips with what gear I should be in, first or second.

last week I was on a training course and the instructor who rides a 4rt very very well said 2nd gear ALWAYS!! With plenty of clutch if necessary.

second gear on the stock sprockets seems very fast in the sections.

i will not change the sprockets under any circumstances, I'm a tight Yorkshire man!!

just want your opinions guys on how you ride.

 

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i use hebo and seal skin socks which i find this gear is very good for clubman level trials hope this helps and I ride ok thanks for asking ! if you are not going to change your sprockets not much point in telling  you what i use 

 

Edited by on it
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I live in Yorkshire and changed my sprockets:o

 

Having had 4RT's for 10 years, I find 10/44T to be perfect for me as a crap clubman

 

1st for the really tight nadgery stuff

2nd for the longer becks/streams and general stuff

3rd for the longer sections and hill climbs

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On standard gearing second is rather high for use "always" in my opinion.

I run 10/43 and generally use first, however, if playing about after a trial I find I can ride almost every section in all 3 lower gears in woodsy type going.  I find second (and first on standard 10/41) a bit fast for burns if the rocks are bigger than grapefruit size.

A long time 4RT owner queried my use of second (before I geared the bike down) on a slippy step in a burn and was surprised when I told him I had used third on a long, steep gully rock/grass climb - he said first for both those sections.

I think it all comes down to individual preference and riding style.

PS   It will only cost you £12 to experiment with 9/41☺

Edited by 2stroke4stroke
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2nd is pretty hard to keep up with on std gearing, 1st is my preffered gear for pretty much everything whether its wet and slippy or dry and big. There's always plenty of torque and speed if desired. You have to be aggresive to get the best from the mont, let the suspension and chassis do its job. 

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I am making the assumption the instructor was also running stock gearing on his 4RT based on your comment... I also run stock on my 4RT.

If that's the case then I would echo johnnyboxer...

1st for the really tight nadgery stuff (I try to avoid 1st, but find it can be helpful depending)

2nd for the longer becks/streams and general stuff

3rd for the longer sections and hill climbs

 

My 2 cents... I find using 2nd when ever I think I can get away with it except for hill climbs or very slow creeping is helping to improve my clutch and body positioning...

Edited by jonnyc21
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Mr Sunter speaks the truth.

1st for 90% of everything unless maybe you live in the south or you are a man called Bou.

Steady in first then use the twisty thing in your right hand  if you want to go faster. The Mont will rev and get up stuff in bottom if you give it some stick -it will also grip and allow you time to recover due to its torque.

If its quite steep then 2nd -if its really steep 3rd.

Only exception is mud which I do not confess to have mastered but 3rd gear, a steady throttle 1/2 open and a very progressive slipping of the clutch seems to work - not 2 stroke rev and burn!!

 

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  • 4 weeks later...

I had a run on a 2017 standard 260 at a test day today.  Bike was on standard 10/41 but somehow felt lower geared than that.  Tickover (apparently set correctly) in first felt a tad slower, if anything, than my 09 on 10/43 and was less sudden on opening the throttle (in both maps).

Though there was not the opportunity to ride in rocky streams I got the impression in the woods, mud and riding over logs that I wouldn't want to gear it down if I had one.

Edited by 2stroke4stroke
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