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Bultaco 199b


chappo
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The 2 kits I bought came with the T bracket but in pieces you have to weld the T bit why its on the cylinder hear the holes for the bolt and stud are drilled out ready for 350 or 250 when You buy the kit. To be honest unless your a hard rider going over rocks ect you don't need the extra strength Begs the question why I had them put On :stupid::stupid:

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Nigel,it's running 12/46.

No time to change it, riding Sunday, see how it goes.

i bought it and I'm away till late Sat night so it'll have to stay like that for this outing.

Ill check frame number to see how late it is, think V5 said 1984.

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1 hour ago, chappo said:

Nigel,it's running 12/46.

No time to change it, riding Sunday, see how it goes.

i bought it and I'm away till late Sat night so it'll have to stay like that for this outing.

Ill check frame number to see how late it is, think V5 said 1984.

See you tomorrow if you're doing the red rose

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Which kind of head steady you use is irrelevant.

The standard OEM fork type head steady works great as long as you mount it as the last engine mount and when de- assembling take this part at first away.

Second you don't want to put stress on the plate of the fork type head stead by bending it. You need to unthighten and loosing the nut and the bolt to the cylinderhead so it's possible to de- mount the headsteady with ease.

 

To the sprockets I run 10/39 when I remember right? (have to look up)

 

Edited by pschrauber
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21 hours ago, trialsrfun said:

Interestingly the Puma and Vasquez built bikes I have seen are usually fitted with the fork type and sometimes a strip from the head to the frame down tube, anyone know why this is. Surely the triangular three point fix one would be better.

 

Cos everything they do isnt necessarily the best. Im not so sure but the high esteem that the 340 is held up in here in the uk isnt tha same in spain. remember that both vesty and john Reynolds via comerfords did more development after 82. One of their things was the improved head steady.

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19 hours ago, bondy said:

The 2 kits I bought came with the T bracket but in pieces you have to weld the T bit why its on the cylinder hear the holes for the bolt and stud are drilled out ready for 350 or 250 when You buy the kit. To be honest unless your a hard rider going over rocks ect you don't need the extra strength Begs the question why I had them put On :stupid::stupid:

This is probably true but they cracked back in the day andas much as anything its a preventative modification.

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10 hours ago, woody said:

11/39 is standard gearing but it is a bit high (for me)   I run 11/42 or 43 which is about the same as 10/39.  But you can't get a 10 tooth front sprocket here

The gearing on my 199a is the same as Woody is using, I also find the 11/39 too high for the events I ride in.

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Smelling 123,

Hi, hope you had a good ride at Warmden.

Had to leave after section 3 the clutch was slipping so much the kick start wouldn't engage, messed around with lever adjustment but not helped, it's not been set correctly after the rebuild I'd suggest.

Thats what comes of rushing to try out your new pride and joy, everything else was fine even the 12/46 gearing, well on the three sections I got to ride it was fine.

Also not got a stand yet and it's painful trying to find something to lean it on at every section ????

Need to read the posts on the Bing carb (new one to me) as it's running far to rich.

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Dabster,

Frame number is 4661.

Got some bits with the bike and going through the box today I found a different slant on the top engine frame mount , this has a rubber bush inserted, clearly of home manufacture by the previous owner who was an Engineer.  Not being an Engineer, I would have thought the idea of this brace whether it be fork or triangle was to be rigid???? !!!!!!!!!

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