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Bultaco 199b


chappo
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Being new to the Bultaco family even after nearly 37 years of trialing having never owned a Bultaco and only ever riding one in a trial once, I have sold a nice Pre 65 to reinvest in the marque. I read with interest this thread because I thought the 199b was the Bultaco I always wanted, and should buy,  only to find that many other people,  better qualified than me talked me out of it. When I was still adamant thats what I should buy several were for sale in France and also in Spain. This backs up the point  Dabster made about they are not that sought after in Spain,  or highly prized, perhaps like the Uk.  Many of my Spanish chums including El Puma think the 199a is the better bike .  Now this is not to say one is better than the other just to reliterate a point made earlier about the desirablility of one model over another.  I did out of interest buy a very nice 199a after doing my homework, its having a little bit or work done in Spain, I will report back when done what head steady it comes back with. 

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3 hours ago, chappo said:

Smelling 123,

Hi, hope you had a good ride at Warmden.

Had to leave after section 3 the clutch was slipping so much the kick start wouldn't engage, messed around with lever adjustment but not helped, it's not been set correctly after the rebuild I'd suggest.

Thats what comes of rushing to try out your new pride and joy, everything else was fine even the 12/46 gearing, well on the three sections I got to ride it was fine.

Also not got a stand yet and it's painful trying to find something to lean it on at every section ????

Need to read the posts on the Bing carb (new one to me) as it's running far to rich.

I think I saw you briefly, looked much shinier than in the pictures, really nice! Maybe you want to keep original but if you're not too fussed, you can get a new OKO for about £60, run lovely, I never had much luck with the bing. Mikuni also great but a bit more expensive.

clutch is probably just down to adjustment as you say, there's loads of great advice on here. I really like the Barnett plates if you do decide to make any upgrades.

stand are a bit hard to come by, if you know a decent engineer you can make an alloy one out of an old set of handlebars....

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1 hour ago, smelling123 said:

I think I saw you briefly, looked much shinier than in the pictures, really nice! Maybe you want to keep original but if you're not too fussed, you can get a new OKO for about £60, run lovely, I never had much luck with the bing. Mikuni also great but a bit more expensive.

clutch is probably just down to adjustment as you say, there's loads of great advice on here. I really like the Barnett plates if you do decide to make any upgrades.

stand are a bit hard to come by, if you know a decent engineer you can make an alloy one out of an old set of handlebars....

 

29 minutes ago, bondy said:

I've just bought the ozo for my 199Aa  and it runs well £60 in the box :thumbup:

Where do you buy the OKO carbs from. I understand there are both genuine and copy ones out there, how do you know if you are getting the real thing?

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2 hours ago, metisse said:

Being new to the Bultaco family even after nearly 37 years of trialing having never owned a Bultaco and only ever riding one in a trial once, I have sold a nice Pre 65 to reinvest in the marque. I read with interest this thread because I thought the 199b was the Bultaco I always wanted, and should buy,  only to find that many other people,  better qualified than me talked me out of it. When I was still adamant thats what I should buy several were for sale in France and also in Spain. This backs up the point  Dabster made about they are not that sought after in Spain,  or highly prized, perhaps like the Uk.  Many of my Spanish chums including El Puma think the 199a is the better bike .  Now this is not to say one is better than the other just to reliterate a point made earlier about the desirablility of one model over another.  I did out of interest buy a very nice 199a after doing my homework, its having a little bit or work done in Spain, I will report back when done what head steady it comes back with. 

 

You having regression therapy H ?  See you the weekend after next ?

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1 hour ago, trialsrfun said:

 

 

Where do you buy the OKO carbs from. I understand there are both genuine and copy ones out there, how do you know if you are getting the real thing?

Scooter Assassins in Taiwan sell genuine OKO for around £60 and free post

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6 hours ago, chappo said:

Smelling 123,

Hi, hope you had a good ride at Warmden.

Had to leave after section 3 the clutch was slipping so much the kick start wouldn't engage, messed around with lever adjustment but not helped, it's not been set correctly after the rebuild I'd suggest.

Thats what comes of rushing to try out your new pride and joy, everything else was fine even the 12/46 gearing, well on the three sections I got to ride it was fine.

Also not got a stand yet and it's painful trying to find something to lean it on at every section ????

Need to read the posts on the Bing carb (new one to me) as it's running far to rich.

The clutches can be a bit finicky to set up as people try for a light pull on the lever which can lead to them slipping. All you had to do (I appreciate you wouldn't have known) was take the cover off and wind the adjusting nuts in one turn which would probably have sorted it. The other thing to check first though, is that the arm isn't sticking in the timing cover. This can happen if a bit of grit or grime has got in there and when you release the lever, the arm doesn't fully return meaning the clutch hasn't fully engaged. It's not apparent that this is happening when it does. To confirm, pull and release the clutch lever, then reach down and see if you can push the arm further back. If you can it's sticking and you just need to remove it and clean the housing out so it moves freely. If it isn't sticking just adjust the clutch spring tension as mentioned previously

 

If you search this forum for clutch set up there is plenty written on how to do it from scratch. Also, when starting a Bultaco get the kickstart to the point where it engages and push hard, don't kick or thrash at it. The clutch can slip on the kickstart but that is ok as it won't when riding but you need to get the right starting technique to avoid it slipping on the kickstart

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4 minutes ago, trialsrfun said:

Thanks Woody do they come jetted and set to suit the Bultaco 

They run virtually out of the box on any bike. Generally the most you have to do is alter the pilot and move the needle one notch, can't remember which way or what pilot I've used (somewhere around 45 maybe) but it may be in the forum somewhere. A box of pilot jets is pretty cheap in the 32 - 50 range which you could order with the carb.

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12 hours ago, metisse said:

Being new to the Bultaco family even after nearly 37 years of trialing having never owned a Bultaco and only ever riding one in a trial once, I have sold a nice Pre 65 to reinvest in the marque. I read with interest this thread because I thought the 199b was the Bultaco I always wanted, and should buy,  only to find that many other people,  better qualified than me talked me out of it. When I was still adamant thats what I should buy several were for sale in France and also in Spain. This backs up the point  Dabster made about they are not that sought after in Spain,  or highly prized, perhaps like the Uk.  Many of my Spanish chums including El Puma think the 199a is the better bike .  Now this is not to say one is better than the other just to reliterate a point made earlier about the desirablility of one model over another.  I did out of interest buy a very nice 199a after doing my homework, its having a little bit or work done in Spain, I will report back when done what head steady it comes back with. 

 

I dont know why the 340 isnt admired in spain could be the dry grippy conditions i dunno. I would say the frame set up and the 6 speed was always nice and the torque are all bettr out the box. I do think they fettle the 325's and then say they are good but dont do the same to the 340. Very few late 250's in spain

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Thanks for all the replies and advice.

Woody, thanks re clutch, I would have done the crankcase adjustment but believe it or not , the limited tool kit I take with me hadn't got an open ended socket wide enough to get the driver through and the car park was empty as we'd only just started the trial, few lessons learnt this weekend.

Does anyone know if there will be an OKO carb supplier distributed at Telford to speak to ????

Dave.

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The consensus is that the 340 is brutal compared to the 325, again this is hearsay, albiet by many respected people, the six speed is always a plus. Also the Pre 80 class is becoming very popular and the 199a fits perfectly.  I have a friend Marti Font, who always rides his Bultaco,  I think its 1974.. with the campeon seat and tank unit, he swears by it . It is a puma bike , but to back this up I know for a fact,  he has a 1979 Bulto and a very nice Montesa last model 349 all built by Puma and in his garage. The softer less agressive, more ridable bikes are better suited I guess for the southern climes, or just for the classic section nowadays in general. Don't want to start another what is best bike type thread just my two euro's worth.

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I'm being perfectly honest when I say I can't tell any difference between a 199, 199a or 199b power delivery.

 

The 159 I had was much more aggressive than any of those - due to the Pursang type weight on the clutch

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I also have a 198a (250) that has electronic ignition and a Mikuni fitted which is really crisp on the throttle and after riding my new 199b (albeit not for long) there's wasn't an earth shattering difference. Possibly when I get it run in and get an Oko fitted it may change. It was running very rich on the Bing.

Smelling 123, did your Oko come already jetted or did you have to make your own adjustments? Was it from an EBay source?

Thanks all for your continued assistance.

Dave.

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