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Tr280i Diagnostic Software


ricarvar
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I just checked.

In the K-Scan, look under the 'Setting' menu.

  Choose 'Transfer Setting'

    Set your COM port to whatever the adapter is using. (look in Device Manager for Windows- you know how, yes?)

 

those have to match or nothing will ever work.

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ok... I see light at the end of the tunnel !!!!

Hopefully is not the train though... Finally, I was able to hook up (today) to an old laptop with Windows XP on it and through the serial adapter. It took me a bit of tweaking on the ports and driver.. but IT WORKED  !!!   :D

So, the site where I found the driver is: www.mea.com.au/upload/NEW_DOWNLOADS/PL2303_USB_Driver_Installation(HH2).PDF

I had to plug and un-plug the 12 volt supply a couple of times, as well as cycle the KScan from Auto to the same port as the driver/cable once or twice... until it picked up the signal... I'll try to upload pictures of what I did... which "I have no idea". So I pretty much when through almost every option the siftware gives you and clicked on it... so now that I got it running... first of all want to thank you all and each of you guys !!!!!!.... and secondly... how to read the software, what to do next?

 

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There are some directions for making some of the settings.

after setting idle, set TPS to .6Volts but turning the sensor (read in software). THEN 'set to ECU'

this part is pretty important, but don't forget to clean main ECU connector.

 

mark

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Hi,  I have been following this topic as I had a 2012 Ossa Explorer and currently have a 2015 Ossa TR 300 i.   I have recently used the New Zealand Ossa importers diagnostic cable and laptop to tune my TR 300 i (it was running too rich so dropped the mixture ratio from 100% to 95.5%.  Leaning the mixture has sharpened the throttle response and improved hot starting.

I have contacted BTWICE - who made the diagnostic cables for OSSA but they no longer sell them, so I plan to make a  FTDI cable up to interface with the K-Scan software I am getting from the NZ Importer.

If anyone knows of a source to buy the genuine BTWICE cable (see photo) I would be most appreciative.  (FYI - the later model Ossa doesn't need the Kokusan communications unit as shown in the earlier posts).

To assist RICARVER - I have also attached the TR280i service manual.  It has instructions on how to use the K-Scan software.

Good luck.

Ossa diagnostic cable.JPG

TR280i Service ManualEN.pdf

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ok, so I've been fooling around the software... my Key questions is:

How can I diagnose the problem?... remember the bike was running and then suddenly stopped and doesn't want to start again. No matter how many kicks it's "dead", no attempts to start, no noises of any sort... 100% dead.

Would the software tell me whether it's a specific component (e.g. coil, sensors, etc.) that is broken or off-specs?

Does the pic below tell you something on this (current) condition?

Picture1.jpg

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Hi,

Firstly - I am not experienced enough in using the diagnostic software to give a qualified answer but my expectation is that the history pic, while very useful, may not tell you the cause of the current fault.  

Does your 2012 TR280 have the easy start system fitted, and if so does the AAA battery still have a good charge?

I would recommend going back to basics and firstly check the wiring loom for any breaks (open circuit), chafing through insulation (causing a short to earth) or loose connections.  

If all the above fails to find the fault I think it may need to be checked over by a motorcycle mechanic.

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Along with getting the current TPS reading as above, was this taken with the bike running or just on the battery? 

Sjnce you you have those documented, clear the errors and see which ones come back, while just on the aux battery you have plugged in.

sort of looking like bad connections to me...but that is totally off the top of my head.

mark

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The bike is not running at all (my intention is through the software identify/diagnose why it does not start?)

Kiwishaun - it does not have the easy start system.

Already check connections (as suggested before) and continuity of normal circuits (except sensors for FI) seem ok.

I'll try to clear those readings and diagnose again through the 12V power and see what comes back...

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Hi ricarver,

I haven't read all the posts here so am not sure what your original problem is, but seems to be that you can't start your bike. While these bikes have been difficult at times to fire up, there is no major history of complete failure to start. Was the bike running when you bought it? Problems have arisen with the ECU pins and socket connector suffering from corrosion, particularly in wetter climates (UK) Don't scrape the corrosion off with a screwdriver, best to use a contact cleaner such as Wurth type OL, it works well. We have had an odd problem with a break in one of the wires in the harness that resulted in intermittent starting/running. Very hard to find.

Are you able to borrow someones ECU to try out in your bike?

The air intake sensor is a type of thermistor, located in the LHS of the inlet hose, needs to be cleaned carefully with a tissue.

Noticed the fault code showed the TPS voltage too low, as suggested before, set this to 0.6v with the throttle left closed, then key in "Set to ECU"

Clear the historical fault codes and see what comes up again.

Check the ign pick up coil at the top right of the flywheel, with an ohm meter, anywhere around 200 ohms is ok, make sure there is an air gap between this and the flywheel, approx 10 thou is ok. The software allows you to perform a few tests, remove the plug (heat range 4 works the best) put it in the cap and ground it to see, and hear the spark when you perform the spark test function, you can hear the click as the spark happens, the test provides 10 seconds of spark more or less. You can test the fuel pump also.

Are the 2 earth (ground) wires connected to the silencer/head bolt? All clean.

Hope this helps, Peter B.

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ok, so no much progress... I'm stuck. I've checked the connections and they look find to me. Also checked continuity on a couple of cables and seems ok. BTW, I can;t seem to upload pictures here anymore...(?) all my pics (after compression) exceed my allowable 61 kb size (???) so I'll try to describe.

I checked the ECU in and out and put some electrical cleaner... but everything looks good to me - no rust, no broken pins, etc.  -  see Pic "A"

As suggested - I removed the Flywheel cover. It is/was dirty... (I'm posting pic on a following reply)... but besides the dirt... what can I say ???... how to test that?... I've no idea.

...and do I need to remove the bolt in the middle/centre of the fly wheel to assess anything else?... if so how to remove it?... when I tried to loosen it the whole thing rotates (including the piston - I could hear it)... so I'm lost in the woods there...

Now readings from software are as follow (cz the pic is too heavy to upload apparently):

TPS: 5.0 Deg

Engine speed= 0

Ignition timing #1: -125 BTDC     ?????????? - what is that?... should it be negative?, what TBDC means?

Boost Pressure: (no value at all)

Injector #1: 0 Micro-S (???)

Intake Air Temperature: 9 Deg C

Barometric Pressure: 86.0 kPa

Battery Voltage: 11.1 Volts

A.JPG

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