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ricarvar

Tr280i Diagnostic Software

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... uh... peterb... by the way... no one around that I know of to ask for an ECU.

I'm kind of having a guts-feeling that the coil that feed the spark-plug (what's its name?) may be burnt-out... bcz I can;t get the spark-plug to spark. However, truth being told... it's a bummer to hold the spark plug while at the same time trying to kick the bike on... and I don;t want to burn out the circuits in case I don;t get it in good ground-contact (right?)... so:

Q1. Is there a away to test that coil?. it has a blue cable coming from what I guess is the fly-wheel... and a groound connection and then the cable for the spark-plug.

Q2. How exactly should I test the pick-up coil ?

 

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BTDC = before top dead centre, which is the timing reference for the sparkplug basically.

TPS at 5.0 should still allow the bike to fire and run assuming there is a spark and fuel

Behind the flywheel there is the stator, you need a flywheel puller to remove the flywheel.

Have you tried using the software to fire the sparkplug to see if you get any spark (by taking the plug out and resting against the head)

If no spark I suppose you could have a stator related issue.

This is confusing as the software is giving you some readings which means that it is able to connect and read from some onboard sensors.

ECU pins look fine and not corroded at all so that at least seems ok

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Like Canada mentions, test the spark with the software.

 

 After clearing errors, do they come back?

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I had a strange no start issue a couple of years ago.A long shot,but you never know.

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Hey Guys, I did the "spark plug" test with the software as Canada and Lotus mentioned... I also connected a spark tester that just bought to be sure I didn't mess anything up... and it does spark :-)   The bulb lights up - so I guess that's good news.

I also found what seems to be the fly-wheel puller !

Q - I believe the "torx" bolt in the flywheel needs to be removed before using the flywheel-puller, right?... I also understand there is something that is "left-thread"... what is the one that is left... the bolt or the puller ?... I don't want to mess up the threads but do not understand how that works

I also tested all other 8 functions with the software. All seem to run (?) as the spark-plug lights up, then on the 2nd-test the fuel pump sounds on for 10 second, and so on for all of the rest EXCEPT the "Fuel Injector #1"... I ran the test and finishes it but doesn't sound anything... how can I tell if it's pass or not?

Sorry for asking too much but I just really am learning as I go here... Thanks again for such fantastic support though !

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I was thinking I could hear the injector clicking during the test- but I'll have to try it again.

  I forgot to ask, is the spark plug getting wet when you try to start? 

Edited by lotus54

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Good point lotus... I'll check the spark plug again next time!

I was able to remove the torx bolt from the rotor; however, the puller I got (27 x 1.0) is not for this bike... no idea how easy is to get an Ossa puller. Anyone know their specs (diameter, thread, etc.)?

I found a couple of nice videos from this guy about testing the stator (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BVXnbrigYf8) and regulator/rectifier (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ted0_4On29M) that I plan to try.

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Ricarvar the the puller is 27mm 1.0 right hand thread. I have one but iam in bc. Remember to use a button or cut off a bolt head to protect the end of the crank and threads before you install the puller. The puller is the same one as gasgas pro. 

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Carefully check the woodruff key (locates flywheel on crank).  If it has failed, then the timing coild be way off.

 

(you will almost certainly need to remove the flywheel first)

Edited by lotus54

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ok ... this is getting interesting and complicated... first of all - as lotus suggested -  I did check whether the spark plug was getting wet... and it did not. so then I removed the fuel hose from the injector and a burst of fuel just shoot out as soon as I pulled it off... I though wow, the injector must be clogged. So I embarked on removing it and clean it, which I did using brake cleaner, etc. It seems to spit like a pro-baseball coach ... (good). I put it back on and kick it to start... and... nothing, at all, "nada".

Now I think that maybe the fuel hose gets pressurized with gas even if the injector is ok (?). So next thought was maybe there is no signal getting to the injector.... so I hooked up the voltmeter and when I kick the bike it reads about 35 volts DC... is that ok?... should be AC?... anyhow. I then found out (as Ossabc) says the flywheel thread is right-hand thread... so I just removed it today. I still don't get though about how to protect it for installation ?

So... three of the six-bolts that are behind the stator (holding the craftshank cover) lost their heads off, and inside the stator were a bunch of metal debris, dirt, oil, crap... and pieces of the bolt-heads were pushed around the "pick up" coil. Once I removed the stator and pick-up coil... I found out that there was actually once piece of the bolt head inserted at the bottom of the pick-up coil (see pic). So the stator is hanging (literally) in there. There's also a lot of crap within the crevice of the crankshaft...

Now, one may say that's the reason why it doesn't work (?)... but... I wonder: Why there are voltage readings at the injector, why the spark plug lights up and why the spark plug is still dry???

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... forgot to mention... the woodruff key seems to be ok in the shaft.

the dirt in the crevice is around the crankshaft cover, between the cover and the "cage/body".

I plan to order the pick up coil as the piece of bolt-head is stick in it. The stator looks good; however I wish I knew the data/info to test it. There are 7 cables in total. three to one conector and five to another connector. Anyone knows how to test that?... it doesn't match the video that I saw for regular stators and can't find for 5 or 7 cables on internet...

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Looks like you found the problem.That is exactly what happened to mine.You may have to reseal the crankcase cover to avoid a leak.(very bad)

Be sure to loctite those screws with blue loctite.

 

Edited by ric h

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Even with the junk around, the stator certainly could produce voltage.

BUT the pickup for the spark timing won't work.

im not sure if i have any test values around for the stator, I was thinking it was in the service manual? If it were me, I would replace the screws (properly locktited as mentioned) clean everything up and see if it will start.

 

mark

Edited by lotus54

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