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ricarvar

Tr280i Diagnostic Software

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Today I ran the software again but I had removed the injector from the engine. Although the software shows it runs the injector, it did not delivered any fuel (?). So I wonder whether that only tests the electronics and not the actual/physical fuel injection into the engine ?

Could that be the reason why when I kick the bike never get the spark plug wet?... if so... how to find out whether it's problems in the signal to the injector or the injector itself?

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I think the software actually fires the injector so I would think you would see a spray of fuel or evidence of fuel at least

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Hummm... I didn't see fuel coming out at all !

I had it connected to the cabling/signal and the fuel hose directly on it, ran the software (3 times) and no fuel coming out... funny thing is the software doesn't say much... just "ready or finished" (can't remember now)... but it doesn't say anything other than that.

As suggested by Ossa - I plan to order the pick-up coil, carnk gasket and bolts to replace such. I'll ask (Matt at dualsport plus) for this as well and see what he says...

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Not quite yet... but things seems to be moving (slowly) ahead though. I shipped it to an old Ossa dealership, they took the engine appart and found a broken little piece that was seizing the kickstarter (after my failed attemp to fix it). As they say this is a winter project for them so I hope it to be ready for next year...

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On 26/4/2017 at 5:44 AM, ricarvar said:

In our EFI system it is very important to define the starting point of the throttle. For this prurpose, we 
have the option "Throttle setting" of K-scan. 
To  proceed,  we  must  click  the  icon  in  the  toolbar    (Fig.4)  to  access  to  the  menu.  Before  making  any 
adjustment, check that the throttle cable is free, otherwise you will not provide a good setting to the ECU. 
 
 
(Fig.4) 
   
On the screen, we have an option labeled as 'Set to ECU " which is used for assigning the zero position of 
the throttle to the voltage value, which actually the ECU is reading from the sensor.  (Fig. 5). Any error on the 
Tps setting, will offset ignition and injection timing, causing  lack of performance, bad startability, and high 
fuel consumption, and it can also damage the engine. The standard value of TPS voltage is set at  0.6 V (0.6 
V ±0.04 v). 

To adjust the Tps correctly in case of manipulation by the user, we first must check the Idle, and forget about 
voltage readings. On a warmed up bike, the idle must be kept on a 1400 Rpm average value.We consideer a 
warmed up bike, a bike that had the fan working for three times minimum. If this idle condition is not reached, 
we  must  set  it  through  the  throttle  stop  screw  on  the  right  side  from  riding  position,  on  the  tps.  Before 
modifying  the  screw's  position,  first  we  must  set  the  minimum  voltage  to  the  ECU  with  the  computer  as 
explained on the previous paragraph. After that we must use that screw to find the exact point of 1400 Rpm 
Idle. The next step is to stop the bike and set the throttle position to ECU again. After that, we must restart 
the bike and check that the idle is not affected by the resetting. If the idle is without specification, please 
repeat  the  previously  mentioned  steps  until  it  gets  stable  after  resetting  the  Tps  value  with  the  computer. 
Sometimes, it takes up to three or four times setting to  get it right. Once we have reached the desired idle, 
we will work on the voltage reading.We must stop the bike, and modify the TPS sensor position, on the left 
side of the throttle body, to match our standard value. To do it, we must unscrew the fixing bolt of the sensor, 
and  turn  it  clockwise  or  counterclockwise  in  order  to  find  the  0,6  v  reading  on  the  throttle  setting  screen. 
Once we have this value on the screen, we must fix the retaining screw, and we must set that voltage to the 
ECU again, and restart the bike. If everything is done correct, this process is completed.  The 0,6 voltage is 
for reference for guessing in further operations on the bike,  if this system has any problem.  

 

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Well mine (2012 280i) is now 'down for the count'.

Recently it suddenly started running extremely poorly and I barely made it back to the pits. Now it won't start. It will occasionally fire but not stay running

Assuming it was a fouled plug, I checked spark. Looks excellent. Yes, it's got a 1/2 tank of good fuel.

I have attached 12V to the fuel pump and the fuel pump runs just fine. I've attached 12v to where the large capacitor attaches to the harness and it does not help the engine start.

Any thoughts?

Is the diagnostic tool still available and does it work?

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The diagnostic software is certianly still around (I can send you a copy)- the cables are a bit harder to find.

I can think of a few things.

1. Do you see any fuel on the sparking plug?   If no- then you may have a clogged fuel filter.  it is a common type filter/pump.  But rather a pain to replace (the engine needs to come out).

2. If you see fuel on the plug, it may have sheared the flywheel woodruff key.  The timing is all off then.

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Thanks lotus54! A sheared key would be easy to fix.

Will check both ideas this weekend.

What type of cable is needed?

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Put the word out to see if anyone close to you has the cables and a laptop and can meet up with you. This is exactly the reason why they should have sold the bike with the cables in the first place, unfortunately there are few owners with them

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Another suggestion would be the fuel pump connector at the base of the fuel tank, it is very succeptible to water and corrosion, clean thoroughly and pack it all with dielectric grease, also do the same for the CD I unit

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Well, great news but embarrassing and I learned a bit.

I learned that I don't know anyone that owns the cable for diagnostic work but I want one. Put the word out please. Can they be made?

After confirming that I had spark, cleaning the fuel pump connection, confirming that I had NOT sheared the keyway (don't drop that flywheel on your toe) , removing fuel line to the injector to confirm it was getting fuel, I 'spoon fed' some fuel to the cylinder though the spark plug hole, installed a new plug (not the right heat range but it was projected tip and resistive) and it started on the third kick. 

Not certain what actually did it but happy to have it back. 

Thanks for the help. I would like a cable if anyone knows of one that is going to waste.

 

 

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