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bigmike1961

Steepening the steering head angle - TLR 200

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Hi big mike, I,ve just started a project ....tlr200 and am looking for info too...I am fortunate enough to b able to make a lot of parts and mods but definitely retired from work... I simply measured my gas gas and set about replicating the fork angle....got a long way towards this by making parallel yokes ....you can buy them....I,ve also made a longer swinging arm, clutch sorted by cleaning up 30 years of wear on driving dogs and face , fitting bell spring and plate to matc, adding oil holes to hub..making extension for actuator arm......playing with Spring pressures now...I.m still not happy as there is a moments delay for clutch to separate or disengage. Currently trying to buy a clutch cover gasket ...would you believe....mine has auto decompressor bit and most advertised gaskets are different. Anyway my search for suppliers and knowledge on the bike continues good luck 

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anti judder kit gives you the delay in the clutch -I had this and made clutch vague. Just clean up plates with coarse wet and dry and judder goes for a good period. of time

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If you do the Beta clutch modification by taking out the glue between the friction material and replace the oil every four trials it improves the clutch. As Jimmy said I found the anti-judder kit made the clutch less constant and felt like it was slipping when the old got hot. Finally, I use semi-synthetic oil (mainly Shell Helix) because fully synthetic oil often have anti-friction qualities.

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Thanks for the replies. Good to know about the parallel yokes and clutch, I've heard that opening a 6mm gap in the top tube by cutting near the head stock and pulling the forks in is the way to go but don't want to ruin the frame. My welding is good.

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I cut mine underneath so original part of top tube remained and the closed up the gap., Some cut the top and open up the gap and then infill with a piece of steel.

My welding (old 240 AC stick welder) was ok but my grinding was better:D

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Does the tube you don't cut bend OK? I was wondering it cutting and opening the gap on the top tube would pull the down tube out of alignment and prevent the engine going back in! Would you need to heat the tube that doesn't get cut? have you any in progress pics of what you did jimmyl?

 

Edited by bigmike1961

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I've found this by bashpalte from 2013 

Hi, I removed the steering lockstep endplate at the bottom of the steering head as it was all bent up allowing the forks to hit the tank. I then cut right through the top tube about an inch back from the steering head and then warmed the tube that runs down to the front of the motor. This let me move the front wheel back until it 'looked right', and it had opened up the cut in the top tube to about 6mm.Welded some steel into the gap, refitted a strengthened lock stop plate and job done.Recon it steepened things up by about 2 degrees,steers great around the garden....will be trials riding tomorrow.

and this

Ok, here's a few pictures of my effort.Steering tweeted footrests moved, and some new shocks, bars and levers and some new cables, are the latest additions, plus frame repaint....only brushed so not blemish free, but much better than it was. Just got to do tank and seat paint when I get time. Hoping to get to the trial tomorrow to see how she rides

but sadly none of the pictures work.

It's from this post on page 4.

How did the TLR ride bashplate with the modifications? Do you still have the pictures of what you did and would you mind reposting them?

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big mike.....sorry about the pictures, they were on photobucket who have now held them to ransom.....not just me but lots of their users. so i need to find a new picture host before I can repost them on here.

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OK , Thanks Bashplate.How difficult was altering the steering head angle?  

I'm a reasonable welder, I've already done the foot pegs. 1" down and back.

I was just trying to see what the end result should look like.

P3205092.jpg

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nice job on the pegs there. what I did with my rake angle, was cut the top tube and mildly heat the down tube to the front of the motor,  just bellow the bottom steering bearing. Did it all with the wheels still mounted, and pulled the front wheel in with a ratchet tie down strap between the front and rear wheels. Just pulled it back till it looked right, about 6mm gap ( may be 7mm) in top tube was about 25ish mm at the wheel base. Then just fill in the top tube with 1.5 or 2 mm plate. Keep the ratchet strap between the wheels while welding to help stop the top tube shrinking as you weld, as it will pull your wheel base out again very slightly.

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Splendid, that was exactly the info I was looking for. I'll take some in progress pictures myself when I get on with altering the rake angle. 

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Splendid, that was exactly the info I was looking for. I'll take some in progress pictures myself when I get on with altering the rake angle. 

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So after the steering head angle mod moves the front wheel back, do you do anything to get the wheelbase back to standard again?

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1 hour ago, feetupfun said:

So after the steering head angle mod moves the front wheel back, do you do anything to get the wheelbase back to standard again?

Would that not depend what "standard" is ?

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