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stu109

Gone 4 stroke

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Yesterday took delivery of a 2013 3004T and took it for its first trial today.

The event was a real mudfest as it had been raining all night, bu what a ride from the bike.

Took me a little while to get the feel of it but the grip was fantastic and you just fly up muddy climbs.  Managed to complete sections that I would have had no chance on on my 125 Rev 3.

I procrastinated a good deal about getting a different bike.  Kept telling myself its not the bike its the rider.  But I am so glad now I made the change.

Did contemplate the Montesa 4RT but could not find a good one at a reasonable price. Heard good things about the Beta on this forum so decided to give that a go.

Couple of technical things that perhaps some other riders might be able to advise on:

The fuel tap has two positions according to the operating manual, one for normal running, and one for starting/filling the carb after have fall.  Have used both of these, but is tap straight down anything, a reserve perhaps?

On over run I get a "phut phut" from the exhaust, is that normal?

Thanks

 

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Up is on when engine running down is on all the time you need to put it down if you haven't started it for a while just to top the carb up phut phut is normal lovely aren't they enjoy 

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Your "phut phut" is probably my "popping". I've just had the carb in bits to make sure it was all to Beta recommendations, but it has made no difference. Perhaps it's a "feature" and not a "problem".

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That pop pop is from being lean, tartist should have tried the 127.5 while you were fiddling.

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10 hours ago, lineaway said:

That pop pop is from being lean, tartist should have tried the 127.5 while you were fiddling.

I am on 127.5. I couldn't read the marking on the old jet, but the new one is definitely 127.5.

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Looking at the jet table in the manual the richer "competition" settings for the 300 are 120, 27.6 and 60. The only variance from factory jets is the slow jet that goes from 17. to 27.5.

The 127.5 looks to be the competition main jet for the 250.

May look at my jets and needle setting at some time but not rushing to take the carb to bits as it runs so well at the moment.

Has a look under the rear mudguard yesterday.  (Mud guard seems poorly named as did not prevent me getting splattered in mud when riding).  Air filter was full of debris and there was a small amount of muddy water in the bottom of the air box.  Do the clear plastic filter covers work?

I see it the manual it suggests replacing the piston (although not the rings) and the water pump shaft and seal at 80 hours.  What do you make of this?

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I had the same questions about changing piston/rings. At first wanted to dig in straight into engine after getting the bike, but many suggestions on forums said wait until something goes wrong and enjoy it while its running good.

Since trials is so low reving activity engine doesn't take a big abuse. Combined with full synth oil changed on time and clean air filter it's recipe for engine longevity.

I think my bike had more than 40 hours on it when i got it.  I have put in 90 practice sessions last year and bike is still going strong.

Engine doesn't use oil - I don't need to top up and oil level in sight window doesn't change. Thats a good sign if it comes to piston rings - they're not leaking too much oil.

It would be good to check compression early in engine life and do periodical tests to see is there any significant change in readings and then inspect.

I wonder has anybody had any problem with piston/rings/cam chain/valvetrain or engine bearings on these engines? 

I hope mine will do another 90 for next season :) 

Edited by klonheadd

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I'm sure it will and the 10 after that, if you change the oil and filters frequently.

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Changed the oil today, and the spark plug.

Oil looked good and clean and nothing untoward in the filters.

Looking to change the coolant. Is it best to pull off one of the hoses or is there a drain plug?

Would like to take the exhaust header pipe off to give it a clean up.  Manual suggests it is held on by to springs to the manifold, Could shift it though.  Anyone got any suggestions for detaching the pipe from the manifold?

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Do you mean you couldn't shift the pipe, or couldn't shift the springs? To help remove the springs you can by a T-handle with a hook on the end. It's much better (and ultimately less painful) than struggling with a screwdriver or other bodge-tool. If the problem is removing the pipe, I'd suggest remove the springs and remove the silencer. Then the only thing holding the pipe to the cylinder head is the stiction, baked mud, exhaust sealant, or whatever. A good wiggling and thumping should get it clear.

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Got the springs off (I use a loop of picture wire) but could not get the pipe off.

May try warming it all up by running the engine.  If that does not work will remove the manifold.  Only looking to clean and paint it so won't rush on the manifold as it looked as if the rad needed moving to get at the bolts.

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If you get a long screwdriver and going down the right hand side of the engine you can get the blade on the end of the header pipe had tap it loose it doesn't take much and it's thicker metal on the end of the pipe 

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