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4rt oil change

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I’m wanting to learn the most efficient way of changing the oil on my 4rt.  Taking it to the bike shop is getting expensive! Has anyone ever done a video? This is the first thing YouTube has ever let me down!

Im hoping to learn the tips and tricks of the trade to make it as easy as possible. 

Thanks in advance. 

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You can view and download the workshop manuals giving a detailed explanation. Here's my method

Sump guard off.....loosen front and rear bolts, then remove front bolts 1st. Be aware of tension on the bolts due to misshaped sumpguard, clamping of guard may be needed.

Drain oil..... 12mm bolt on rear of generator cover and remove gear lever

Start to un-do the generator cover, loosening opposites

fully remove bolts laying them out in order

Using the Lugs on the generator cover, prise the cover using tyre levers and a soft rubber hammer to break the gasket seal

Carefully clean the gasket from both surfaces using a sharp blade

Use a 8mm t-bar to un-do the filter cap and remove

Wiggle the filter out, it's tight against the flywheel but it comes. Be aware of the spring behind the filter

Re assemble, put a small blob of grease in the back of the filter to hold the spring in place...... Make sure filter is correct way round

 

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To add to jr’s post once oil is out lay bike on its side - clutch side down .

remove casing as per jr. With bike on it’s side there is less strain on flywheel casing wires as no gravity pulling it down.

Change filter as above - if you fit a new gasket oil one side - the one without the built in sealant - thus should allow the gasket to split next time without needing a new one .

put new oil in to engine before putting cover on- much quicker than pouring it through the full hole once assembled .

be very careful putting the filter cover back on - oil the o ring to help it seal .

if is easy to not get the top hat cover to standby proud which makes the oil in feed spigot sit a slight angle and not allow the flywheel cover to drop onto dowels correctly.

once back together do final oil check as per manual - I find leave fir a few mins after running bike and dip stick just in and then bottom of the mark.

sone stories of over filling pushing crank seals out   

I do one oil filter change . Then just an oil change then oil and filter etc.

probably every 6 weeks depending on events

good luck 

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34 minutes ago, jrsunt said:

You can view and download the workshop manuals giving a detailed explanation. Here's my method

Sump guard off.....loosen front and rear bolts, then remove front bolts 1st. Be aware of tension on the bolts due to misshaped sumpguard, clamping of guard may be needed.

Drain oil..... 12mm bolt on rear of generator cover and remove gear lever

Start to un-do the generator cover, loosening opposites

fully remove bolts laying them out in order

Using the Lugs on the generator cover, prise the cover using tyre levers and a soft rubber hammer to break the gasket seal

Carefully clean the gasket from both surfaces using a sharp blade

Use a 8mm t-bar to un-do the filter cap and remove

Wiggle the filter out, it's tight against the flywheel but it comes. Be aware of the spring behind the filter

Re assemble, put a small blob of grease in the back of the filter to hold the spring in place...... Make sure filter is correct way round

 

I agree, it is a flipping palaver

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13 minutes ago, jimmyl said:

Easier than mixing 2 stroke every ride 

That's hardly a chore though, unlike taking the 4RT sump guard off, which can be a PITA to get back on again

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I agree with jimmy......get the Mitanni one......don't know if the new Honda/Montesa 18 ones will be better.....

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Thanks for the advice guys. I think its probably one of those things that sounds like a pain in the a*** but once you've seen it been done it becomes easy. 

 

I've heard some people don't take the sump guard off and simply lie the bike on its side to drain the oil out. Has anyone got experience of this?

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It takes a bit of effort to get the casing off anyway due to the magnetic effect on the coils - I doubt you'd succeed with the additional friction of the rubber squeezed agin the sumpguard to avoid its removal.   But casing only has to  come off to do the filter so you can just drain every second change if you wish.

You'll know, of course, that the gearbox oil is separate and also needs changing at intervals.  I mention this as I heard about someone who bought a 4RT where the previous owner had been assiduous in changing the oil - except he had only ever done the gearbox oil, being unaware of any other.  The new owner found the filter had long since collapsed.  Some expenditure was required to repair the damage.

Has anyone ever discovered how to undo the wiring connector to allow full removal of the casing?

 

Edited by 2stroke4stroke

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Also don't drain the gearbox or engine oil by mistake and the put the new oil into the opposite place.

Did something similar first year I had the 4rt after from switching from the 315r  - old habits die hard and it was at the inter centre trial and think alcohol may have been involved:beer:i.

Couldnt work out why the oil was so high up the dip stock then realized I had drained gearbox and filled engine  :wall:

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How can you possibly compare the work involved with mixing your pre-mix ?

It seems an extream justification for going 4RT or am I missing the humour ?

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9 hours ago, 2stroke4stroke said:

Has anyone ever discovered how to undo the wiring connector to allow full removal of the casing?

 

Its an easy job to take the stator off the cover, 3x 4mm allen bolts and 2x 8mm bolts. Lets hope you don't ever need to replace the cover, they are the wrong side of £400!

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5 hours ago, collyolly said:

How can you possibly compare the work involved with mixing your pre-mix ?

It seems an extream justification for going 4RT or am I missing the humour ?

I guess it’s a bit like shaving .

you don’t realise what a pain it is unless you grow a beard.

you have to change oil in the gearbox on a 2t. To change the engine oil and filter as well takes an extra 10 mins every 3 months - 40 mins a year , that’s a lot less than needed to clean your carb out every other weekend.?

Compared to The hassle  of buying 2 Stoke oil, buying exactly 4 litres mixing and swilling , then spilling  then having 2.5lts left in your tin from the last trial so you can’t get 4 Litres in your Tin to make up a new batch and what you have left isn’t enough for this weekend so you need 2 tins / you telling me that is easy .

you don’t know how much of a fuss it is until you go to the garage and buy just the amount of fuel you want for that particular weekend .

maybe It isn’t a big thing still makes me smile when my 2t mates is spilling petrol down his arm at the start of a trial tho??

 

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